mice debris in heater box

For cleaning, you can get a vacuum machine adapter kit at home centers (I got mine at Home Depot). You can then put small diameter vinyl tubing on the adapter tip.

To keep the mice out, you remove the windshield wiper arms and the plastic piece that goes across the car above the engine. That gives you access to the holes they get in through. Attach mesh over those openings and your A/C system will be mouse resistant.

 

This file has the best easy to follow instructions and pictures for removing the windshield wipers and cowl:

BT Tech Strut Tower Brace Install - By GadgetDad (Lee) v2.doc

While you're in there under the cowl I would screen-off the several small and large openings to prevent mice from entering the cabin. Mice have been known to especially like building homes in the cabin filter area.

Here's a pic of my quick and dirty screening job using vinyl double-screened gutter guards and tape (the best or better screening job would use metal screens and screws):

[IMGLINK]http://priuschat.com/forums/members/boo-albums-prius-picture460-strut-tower-brace-install-while-you-have-plastic-cowl-removed-its-good-time-put-screen-over-holes-where-mice-other-rodents-can-otherwise-enter-into-dash-cabin-areas-i-didnt-have-metal-screening-material-self-tapping-screws-handy-so-i-used-what-i-had-plastic-gutter-guard-gaffers-tape-i-think-itll-work.jpg[/IMGLINK]

 

Well I am still stuck on the seemingly very simple step of removing the wiper arms, especially the driver side. The arms seem stuck very tight on the threaded post. I did raise the blades to relieve the tension but still had trouble pulling the arm out. The driver side arm base sits in such a deep and narrow well (part of the plastic cowl)

that I haven't been able to find a suitable puller to insert into there to help me pull the arm out.

 

Unless I'm misunderstanding your dilemma, go to the next page of the instructions I posted. The arm doesn't lift up without first unscrewing the bolt. You'll need a 14mm socket as shown and described in the instructions.

 

After you've removed the wiper nut, put the wiper blade back down so it is resting on the windshield glass. Press down on the wiper arm with one hand to relieve the pressure that the spring in the arm creates, and try to wiggle the pivot point at the end of the arm that the threaded shaft runs through. Then hopefully you can just pull up and remove the wiper arm without having to use a puller.

Regarding the OP's post, if debris was found below the fan then I assume that the mice got through the cabin air filter. If the filter was undisturbed, then it sounds like the mice may have entered the car at a location other than the front cowl, such as the openings behind the rear bumper near the hatch.

 

Yes I did remove the nut first.

 

So maybe I don't understand the mechanics of the wiper arm spring. Did you mean that even with the wiper blade raised (as if I was cleaning it), the spring would still apply some stress that resist the wiper arm removal? I just don't see how could this happen.

 

I'm not aware of an easier way. 1/4" metal wire mesh would be fine.

Note that when you slam the door shut with the windows closed, that you don't feel any pressure on your eardrums. The reason is because there are a couple of rectangular vents in the hatch area, one on each side. You might have to remove the 12V battery on the right side to find the opening on that side. Also note the traction battery ventilation duct, you might want to screen the opening for that duct.

No, if you raise up the blade the spring is no longer applying pressure. However the hole in the arm is still cocked against the pivot shaft due to the pressure previously applied by the spring, so that makes it hard for you to pull off the wiper arm.

If you push down on the wiper arm with the blade on the glass, then you are applying force to counter the pressure that the spring had previously exerted. When you do so, you should find that the arm will wobble a little against the pivot shaft.

Thus the hole in the arm no longer will be cocked against the pivot shaft, and you may now be able to pull the wiper arm off with your hand. Try it and see.

 

I have never used a puller in my life to get a wiper arm off, with the arm up off the screen just wriggle it and it will come off.

 

all,

I may be totally off base here, but when I had my windshield replaced earlier this year, I don't remember the glass installer removing the driver's side wiper (maybe I'm wrong). I remember him removing the 2 capnuts at the middle that held on the passenger side wiper & lifting that off as one piece (I think that's what I did too when I screened off my openings). But for some reason, I don't remember him having to remove the driver's side wiper from its shaft.

I know he took the passenger side plastic tray off, but I don't seem to remember him removing the driver's side tray (which WOULD require removal of the driver's side wiper arm). I thought he just loosened it to get at the nuts underneath that hold on the wiper's motor/transmission assembly. I thought he then just lifted everything off together as one unit. I DO remember thinking how much easier his method seemed compared to what I had actually gone through when I did my screening of the openings. I could be totally wrong though.

For any of you who take off the driver's side wiper, be aware that there is a little clear dot in the black area near the lower part of the windshield (even on the aftermarket glass that I got) to align the outer tip of the driver's wiper with before pushing it all the way onto the shaft & tightening. You shouldn't need to worry about the alignment of the passenger side wiper if you undid the 2 capnuts of the articulated linkages because when you remount that it should come back into place automatically. My original windshield had a clear dot for the tip of that wiper too, but not the replacement windshield.

Ken (in Bolton,Ct)

 

I tried to push down on the wiper arm with the blade on the glass in vain at home. Frustrated I asked some coworkers for help. What he did was to raise the blade and rock the short arm back and forth with some force until the two cones separated. It was like magic! I guess the rocking is more effective than just pushing in one direction to break the bind between the post and the hole (both cone shaped). Thanks for the suggestion and detailed explanation - it always helps to understand the underlying principles of things.

By the way he thinks the nut was put on way too tight although I was using a good torque wrench tightening to the spec ~ 15 ft-lb.

 

Glad that you've been able to figure that out. As a DIYer you need to be able to remove the cowl that runs across the hood compartment, in order to perform tasks like replacing the front struts, removing the cylinder head valve cover, gaining service access to the inverter, finding the brake pressure accumulator pump mounted to the firewall, etc.