Hey Chapman this is Bryan from the U0293 post I’m having the same issue again code U0293, I wanted to see if there’s more issues I’m not aware of related to this could the 12v charging circuit cause this?
chapman help! if my hybrid battery only clicks once when trying to go into ready mode , what’s the most likely culprit? the orange safety plug? i ran out of gas and can’t get it started again
3. I wish I had known about LKQ.com a year ago. I think i would have been OK with the new master cylinder if i had bench-bled it, but i was pushed in a corner [pressed for time - had to go visit Family] and had to take it to the dealer to let them bleed it for $275.00. BTW, how do U become a senior member ? After all, I'm almost 83 :-)
2. My 'booster/accu.' was good, but now i have all new. In December 2023 the local Toyota dealer quoted me $1100.00 each, but last month their price had dropped to $750, so i bought new instead of paying only $250 from a salvage yard. If i had it to do over again i would at least try the salvage yard unit - LKQ.com was good to deal with.
1. THANK You, Mr. ChapmanF, for answering my questions. My local Toyota parts man was right when he guessed that my problem was an internal leak in the Brakes Master Cylinder [picture of which you labeled brake booster assembly]. BUT, I thought i might get by cheaper changing the booster/accumulator for only $450 from Amazon. Wrong.
ChapmanF you can probably identify this issue! I have a 2011 Prius and on January 20th of this year, this loud hum noise started http://link.www.ridesharedriver.blog/Prius_hum_noise. That is from a mic on the "Shotgun seat" While I am driving on Interstate 275 in Tampa, FL. The noise is very loud in the car. When I get over to the left or make a left turn the noise goes away. Thanks, Rideshare Sean
I am having ABS 33-34, (!) 36, VSC 43 just like it.. Thus I am stealing the feed from the front sensors to feed the rear sensor.. 1. Are front sensor unique? ie different than the rear.. ie is the start up test failing because my front check signal is different that the rear check signal.
You're the PriusChat poster with the greatest technical training. Things you've written have been quite helpful to me in recently years on Gen IIs and Gen III's. Do you know of any a coherent discussion of trickle charging a Prius traction battery using a 300mA/250VDC power supply in the form of a Meanwell LED driver module? Can it be done without removing the traction battery from the vehicle?
I doubt I've the most technical background; the list is surely longer, but check out Elektroingenieur, fuzzy1, mr_guy_mann, Mr. F, and several others. We don't really know who anybody is or where they work, but those accounts often make well-informed posts. As for a 300 mA LED power supply, I think if you search the forums you probably will find threads discussing that or very similar approaches.
On a generation 2 brake pump replacement accumulator pump replacement where does the electronic box go where is it located in the car have any idea I don't see it
Mr.Chapman, I can't thank you enough for pointing out that water drains down through the back side of those low drain openings that I covered with wire and then down further. Your warning about not blocking that outer drain was very much appreciated, and in fact the foam blocked the drain
Greetings ChapmanF, I just wanted your input on the possibility of using a EG4 solar inverter advertised to have a 120 to 500 vdc input capacity on 2nd or 3rd gen for home backup power. They sell a 6000 watt split phase for 1300 dollars, and a 3000 single phase for only 750, only weighs 18 lbs. My question or doubt is whether it would handle the voltage fluctuacion when the ice kicks in. What do you think?
I'm not familiar with those units. They could be of interest. I left a longer comment on the forum post you made about them.
hi chapmanf, can you bring some light into this hot topic today? we can use your expertise on this thread if you have a chance. thanks. Load tester for individual modules? | Page 2 | PriusChat
My 2002 Prius needs the steering torque calibrated. My scan tool is supposed to do it, but fails. Are there pins on the OBD port I can touch together the magic number of times in the right number of seconds to set it?
I believe so; see pages DI-457 to DI-459 (in 2001 book, maybe slightly different page numbers in 2002 edition). Have you started a thread about this? Maybe do that, include what trouble codes you have. That way the thread helps other people, they don't have to read my profile messages.
Is the master brake cylinder, brake actuator, abs pump assembly, the same part with different names ? Thanks
Nothing. It doesn't go inside the cat. It goes in the exhaust heat recovery exchanger, behind both cats.
I think I need them. It's getting around 34 mpg at this point which is significantly less than before. Also, do you have contact info for Rich?
Thanks ChapmanF. I did the drag test, and though it was kind of hard to do on our busy roads, I think I was able to do it right. The only wheel/brake I noticed that had more heat than the others was the rear passenger side. It was by no means on fire, but did have more heat than the other 3 wheels. Any idea what I should check further? I have never done anything to the rear brakes...
