P1116, P0117 anyone??

A thread on a similar issue can be found here:
http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...-p1116-code-coolant-control-valve-issues.html

Unfortunately there was no technical resolution to the problems cited.

A few things to check: Make sure that the hoses leading to the water valve are correctly connected.

Any damage to the wiring harness connector that leads to the engine temp sensor? P0117 implies a short in the wiring.

If the cabin heater isn't working (and especially if the engine is still overheating), you probably have air in the engine coolant system. Note the air bleed valve on top of the radiator that can be opened to let air out of the radiator. Squeeze the top radiator hose to further encourage air to pass.

Set the car to inspection mode so the gasoline engine continues to run, then set the cabin temp to MAX HEAT and rev up the engine until you don't hear air in the cabin heater and you can feel heat coming out. Refill the coolant reservoir as needed so the level is at the FULL mark.

How much coolant did you add after you replaced the canister and water pump? Should be around 6 US quarts. If much less, then you might also have air in the canister. I shorted the CHS relay switched terminals to force the CHS pump to run and fill the canister, but there's some risk in that process.

 

http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-prius-main-forum/71580-cant-get-inspection-mode.html

 

First, find the CHS relay which is located in the relay box mounted to the cowl above the engine. Gently pry the relay out of its socket, using a small flat-blade screwdriver.

Look at the relay terminals. Two are copper-colored while two are silver-colored. Use an ohmmeter to determine which pair of terminals is for the coil (you will measure several ohms of resistance) and which pair is the switched terminals (infinite resistance.)

Use a paper clip to short the switched terminals on the relay socket, when the car is IG-OFF. This will force the CHS water pump to run. Run the water pump only when the car is IG-OFF and only for ~20 seconds at a time to avoid overheating.

Hopefully you'll see the coolant level in the radiator drop after you've run the pump, which shows that coolant is entering the canister. Squeeze the top radiator hose, run the pump, refill coolant, repeat several times until the coolant level doesn't drop.

This is not an approved service method as the repair manual requires use of the Toyota diagnostic laptop or handheld device to run the pump. Hence my warning that use of this procedure is at your risk.

Another potential service method is to use a vacuum pump on the radiator opening when the cap is removed. However I don't have that tool and have had success using the procedure I've outlined above.

 

I hope I am not confusing the issue. I seem to remember the dealer changing my whatever-you-call-it water flow valve between the head and the tank and the heater core, under a recall order, because some of the valves would stick. I too have the 2006 Prius. Reading all the posts, an airbubble issues screams at me too, but I wonder if his valve is bad.

I think this is right, thermos-head-radiator-heater core is on one system, and the inverter-block-other radiator is on a different system, and the valve I am speaking about is the device which directs heated water from the head to the heater core or to the radiator.

Somebody correct me if I am wrong.

 

First, the thread is over six years old. I think this is what you'd call a zombie thread--it lives!

Second, the inverter cooling system does not include the engine block, if that's what you mean by "block." It does include the transaxle. And I'd replace the word "head" with "engine."

The three way coolant control valve is in the "engine" system.