jl audio FlatWedgeâ„¢ Low-Profile Ported System

I know what the PEQ is and unfortunately it works as a "bass boost" and this is different than a bass level control. A bass boost often has a center frequency as a peak instead of just increasing the entire frequency spectrum like a level or gain control would. The PEQ would definately allow you to lower or raise the volume of the subwoofer but it is centered at 45Hz (pretty darn low) and may have less of an effect at 80Hz. It really depends on the system setup so if you could get the shop to let you test it out in your system that would be great. Since it is an easy plug in that should not be too troublesome for them.

 

I found the RF bass boost remote for $25 on Amazon, so it looks like there will be some trial and error to see if I can find a decent range of control with it. It says 0dB to +18dB boost @ 45Hz. Otherwise I'll probably go the converter route. Thanks again.

 

Ok last question. I'm not sure if my amp has the best settings. I know trial and error is a good way to go, but what are your thoughts on these current settings:

Front channels (speakers) - All Pass, Freq. is 155 Hz. Gain is at about 5. Punch EQ set to 0.

Rear (sub) - Low Pass, Freq is 55 Hz, Gain 5, and Punch EQ about halfway.

I guess it's the frequencies I'm most clueless about. Any suggestions?

 

The rest of your install is so clean, I thought you would have rewired one of the existing control knobs from the old system. I especially like the deck hiding in the little cubby. And you're being very helpful - you could have said the problem with the bass was that the system's about 1000 watts short.

 

I bet with a bit of tinkering you can find a happy medium between lowering the gain crontrol on the amp and using the bass knob to add more when needed. It may not be perfect but if you like it then that is all that matters right?

 

This is all very subjective but I'll give it my best shot without actually listening to the system.

• The high pass frequency may be a tad bit too high. If it is fully variable try listening to bass heavy music or something with a lot of midbass in it (kick drums and bass guitar work too). Then work down to a lower frequency and see if you like it.

• I generally try and xover subs at closer to 80Hz and then work my way down. 55Hz seems a tad low to me, especially for such a small sub.

1. For gain settings:
2. For best sound quality and amplifier efficiency I would start with the gains set at minimum.
3. Play a quality recorded CD that is fairly dynamic (a lot of highs and lows coming in fast and hard. Modern Jazz works well).
4. Turn the volume on the deck up to about 3/4 full volume and then starting turning up the gains on the amp till you start to hear distortion in the speakers. Turn the gain back down just a tad and leave it there. This should represent the highest you will ever listen to the system and it will reduce the likelyhood of damaging anything and you now have the highest signal possible coming out of the deck with a minimal amount of distortion or induced signal noise going to the amplifier.
5. Do the same thing for the subwoofer gain control but this can be modified if you don't like the bass so loud.

If your rear speakers are run off of the stock deck then 3/4 volume might not work so just keep turning up the volume till you hear the rear speakers distort (while the amp gains are still at minimum) then back the volume down a tad and start adjusting the gains on the amplifier as described above.

This is the quick and dirty way to set an amp up without having to go through all the signal matching stuff or using other devices. It works in a lot of situations.

 

Well yeah, 1,000+ watts short and missing a few more 8" subs but hey if they don't like the feeling of someone kicking you in the back everytime the bass hits then maybe my setup is overkill for them. lol

BTW, I added all my music back onto the flashdrive and I wish you could have listened to all of my reference music. It sounds so much better than the stuff we listened to. Plus I had the not-so-good- subwoofers in due to blowing up the really good 10" subs.

 

Reference music, like the clip from Jurassic Park? That reminded me of the lyrics from 'Who Are You': "And the breeze blew back my hair." That's what the dinosaur belch felt like. And those weren't even the good subs?! :faint2:

 

Really? I have one too. I haven't installed it yet because I'm still working out the other details of my upgrade. But I did put it in the cargo box above the spare tire to see how it fit. With the grill off I found that the lid will just barely clear it. But I didn't want to leave it without the grill, so I'm actually building a replacement lid. Then I'll make an 8" hole just over the speaker, cover the hole with a flush grill and cover everything with carpet. This is as far as I've gotten:







Glad to see others have it and like the sound. I'm dying to try mine out!

- D

 

LOVE that wood cargo lid - I say stain it nice and maybe add a little nylon pull to lift it up? Or maybe carpet it? Looks great, nice going. Let us know how you like the sound.

 

Love it too. Second the stain idea. Cutting a hole and adding a flush grill seems like a good idea. My only thought is that covering it with the carpet afterward might not be ideal in terms of impeding air displacement. I'm sure F8L would know better tho. Thanks for that final feedback, F8L. Will be tweaking it today.

 

You can purchase acoustically transparent carpet or grille cloth. This will allow you to carpet the wooden area with something that closely matches the car then use the acoustic carpet to cover the opening you cut for the speaker.

You can also just cut large slots into the wood (around the speaker to allow for good airflow then cover the whole thing with acoustic carpet. The only hard part will be getting carpet that matches. Call the distributors and tell them what you are doing and I bet they can fix you up.

Stinger Grille Cloth

New Coast Fabrics

 

The plywood I've used isn't nice enough to stain and that wouldn't be my preferred look anyway, but thanks for the props!

Oooh, thanks for the linkage F8L. Routing slots would be nice but part of cutting the full 8" hole is for clearance. That JL grill sticks up pretty far. It'll almost be flush with the top of my lid after it pokes through the hole. Already got one of these to undermount in the hole: Speaker Grilles at Crutchfield.com

Now I just can't decide if my Weathertech mat can go back in over everything when I'm done. It shouldn't be much of a barrier to a sub I don't think, I'll just try it and see.

- D