jl audio FlatWedgeâ„¢ Low-Profile Ported System

I like it. $210 seems like a good price for a factory-built box with a mid-level woofer. I believe the woofer is an 8W3V3. It'll definitely fill out the lows. It won't bump as hard as a 10". Depending on what you listen to, that may not matter.

 

I have one of a similar model, as part of a whole system upgrade.
Plenty of CLEAN bass for anything except neighborhood-shaking hip-hop.

The bonus is you can put it in the rear compartment, or on the floor pan just behind the driver seat if you need the cargo space.

Components by
JL Audio

A6450
6 ch Amplifier

CL441
CleanSweep DSP

SSI
Signal Summing Interface

XR 650CSi
Component Speakers (front)

TR650CXi
6.5” Two-way Speakers (rear)

CP 108G-W3V3
Sub Woofer

 

JL makes great pre-boxed subwoofers. Rarely do I find one that doesn't sound good. One must keep in mind the physical limiations fo a small single subwoofer though. Despite this being a ported enclosure you will still be unhappy if you like to play your bass very loud. To round out a clean system and add bass fill this thing should sound excellent and keep reduce the amount of space normally taken up by an enclosure.

I seel JL products but have not used this box yet.

 

I bought the CP108LG-W3v3 model today and had it mounted behind the rear seat so that it folds down with the seat. The installer inserted a piece of plywood into the back of the seat to fortify the mount.

Previously, I had only a Rockford Fosgate Punch P400-4 4-channel amp powering Alpine components and coaxials. My biggest gripe was that even after insulating my doors, I couldn't eliminate various rattles.

The amp powers the sub now as well, and with only the mids and highs going to the Alpines, the rattles are gone and the bass response has been impressive. I listen to a lot of bass heavy music like trance, and for those into such electronic music, I can vouch that Above and Beyond's Anjunabeats Vol. 7, for instance, sounded positively fantastic today with the new sub.

My hunch is that the 8" speaker, being housed in a box made by JL Audio specifically for that speaker, sounds comparable to some other 10" subs. In any event, the previous poster was spot-on in describing the bass response as "clean." Besides sounding both tight and clean, I personally would not want any more bass than this thing has to offer; the rear view mirror looks like it'll vibrate off its mount as it is.

 

Assuming you have the front RCAs going to channels 1-2 on the amplifier (powering your mids/highs) and the rear RCAs going to channels 3-4 (powering the sub) why not just use the fader on the deck and fade it more to the front, effective reducing signal voltage going to the rear channels and lowering volume on the sub. That way you don't screw up your imaging or sound quality like you do when you balance to the left or right.

 

NP man. Let me know if it works. If it doesn't then I'll help you try to figure out how to make it work.

 

Sounds to me like they used a 2-channel high to low converter instead of a 4-ch. Can you look up your receipt and tell me which line converter you purchased?

For a quick fix simply go to the amplifier and turn down the "gain" control for the sub. That will help for now but using the fader is really nice when adjusting the bass for different kinds of music.

 

I'm pretty sure that's my setup too. I have a question along these lines. I would like some additional bass control as well. But when the installer put in my amp, i think he only used 1 converter rather than 2 such that fading to rear just turns the volume down/off on everything.

The way I see it, I have 3 options:

1) use the tone control on the head unit to lower the bass. I read this might not be such a big deal as it should not have too much effect on the mids. I haven't tested this much but haven't heard too much degradation the little I have tried it. Any thoughts on this?

2) install a second converter so that I can fade to front to lower subwoofer power and bass levels.

3) buy the $35 Rockford Fosgate subwoofer remote and install it somewhere inconspicuous. I imagine this might be the most effective solution.

 

I'm guessing there is a bit of miscommunication between you and the installer/salesperson. It happens a lot so please don't take this to mean you are wrong somehow.

If you are using a stock deck then you must use some sort of line converter from high level outputs (factory stereo speaker wires) to low level outputs (RCA cables) which can then go into your amplifier. Some amplifiers have this feature built in but many do not use them because of the lack of adjustability. The installer likely used a 2 channel line converter from your stock stereo and this only supplied 1-set of RCAs to your amp which is why when you fade to the rear you lose all sound except your rear speakers which are tied into the stock stereo power.

To correct this situation and get some adjustability you could use a 4 channel line converter which taps into your stock stereos front AND rear speaker wires. This will allow you to have 4 RCA wires (front and rear) to plug into your amp and now you can use the fader to control bass. Note that this will also diminish the volume of the rear speakers as well but that is usually a good thing unless you are going for max volume.

I'd be more than happy to talk with your installer to help you figure out your situation if you like. I've been working in high end car audio since 1994. Post up the make and model of your amplfier and I'll see if you have the option for a remote "bass knob" as this could solve the whole problem for you and cost less than $45.

 

It seems to be a common theme, installers using a 2channel line converter instead of a a 4channel unit. We always use a 4channel converter when installing anything other than a 2 channel amp. :/

As for your options here is how I look at it.

1) I don't like to use the tone controls to adjust volume for the subwoofers as this does affect your midrange response and may reduce your level of midbass which is important to me. The only time I do this is if there is no crossover on the mids/highs that will filter out low freq. bass which could damage the speaker at high volumes.

2) One line converter can do the job for you but it needs to be a 4channel unit, not a 2 channel. The problem here is you will rack up more installation cost unless you can work a deal with them by stating you thought you were getting full 4 channel control to begin with. That usually doesn't go over well though. lol

3) This is likely the cheapest and easiest option for you as installation will be a breeze and the unit itself is a little lower than the cost of a good 4 channel line converter. The only drawback is having to mount the knob somewhere. I'm lazy and mine is still sitting in my cupholder. Uhhhggg

 

Classic. That was my hunch, but thank you for your feedback and for confirming this.

 

No problem.

 

Actually, I misspoke. The remote is for the AMP, not the sub. I'd post the link but I'm under 5 posts so don't have that privilege yet. It's the Rockford Fosgate PEQ Remote Punch EQ though.

Says it acts as a treble or bass BOOST. I'd think I could lower the gain on the sub channels 3 and 4 to bring bass levels to the low end and then use the "boost" to increase the bass as needed. Is this still sounding on track?

 

Neil, I looked up your amplifier and it doesn't appear to have an option for a remote bass control. You may have to look into another option or go with a 4 channel line converter.