Fog Lights: Install [Retrofit] fog lights on 2010 Prius?

update:

Most of the parts came. All but the passenger side cover. I couldn't wait and isntaleld the drivers side fog assembly. It was easy and took about 15 minutes.

I also took another look at the wiring. I think I might use the factory circuit. Although I didn't like that hey only go on when the headlights go on, I realized that they do go off when the headlights go off, meaning that there wouldn't be a chance for me to accidentally leave the fog lights on when I turn the car off. The only way to have the fogs go out when the car is off is to either use the factory circuit, or wire the 12V+ source to an accessory line that can handle an additional 110 watts. I doubt that I'll find that.

So I'm going to just run it from the ecu using that extra unused pin. I haven't actually found it yet. Maybe someone can post a picture of L8. From there, I'll just connect it to the fogs. I don't see the need for having that go to another relay, since it was already designed for the task. So in the end, the only wire I will run is from the ECU (Using the extra pin idea from Jayvee) to the fogs and call it done. No other relays or fuses should be necessary as per Casumik's install can attest to.

 

So has anyone other than CASUMIK's technician actually breached the firewall yet?

 

I might have my dash panel off again tonight (still workin' on that auto headlight possibility.....) and I will try to post a photo of L8.

L8 is coming from the same bundle that L7 comes from. L7 connects to the top right receptacle of the Main ECU junction block. L8 "would" go just below L7, but unless you have LED headlights, the junction block does not even have the receptacle for L8. On my car, L8 (a white connector the same size and rough shape as L7) was simply moved to the upper left and taped to the bundle. It only has the three wires I mentioned going to it (white, black, white w/black stripe).

I should have my covers in a couple of days. One other thing I noticed about the eBay Yaris light kit (with the OEM-fit switch) is that the illumination (on) lamp in the switch is tied to the same main switch contacts. This switch won't work for me as is, to provide the switched ground connection to the ECU so I can use the factory relay (unless I don't use the illumination). I'll have to take it apart and re-wire it. It's got a crummy incandescent lamp in it anyway, instead of an LED. Or, if I find a switch similar to Slovewell's......

Haven't determined a firewall path yet. (Pretty tight in that engine compartment!)

 

There is a wire bundle entering the firewall between and above the brake and throttle. The firewall is way behind the back of the hood so it's not easy to get to from under the hood but there is a nipple on the outside, passenger side of this bundle that I plan on going through. I've bought a nice blank switch that would fit through the knock out (1/2 inch hole to drill) but waiting for my third light kit to see if it has a switch that works. Either way I'm installing a switch this weekend. I now have the fog lights installed and turning on all the time with the the low beams, the switch from a kit that doesn't fit is under the hood and always turned on.

 

I found L8. The reason I did not see it earlier is that it IS connected to the ECU. It has the same three wires you describe, but is physically cliped into the space under L7. I wonder why? Is your's not connected to the ECU?

 

Good news! The installation of the OEM headlight stalk switch is much easier than I thought. I wouldn't say that it is trivial, but I made a big deal out of what is a very straight forward process. I really took my time with everything because it was the first time I've ever removed a steering wheel. Even still, I would clock the whole procedure at about 20 to 25 minutes - excluding the 15 minutes I waited after disconnecting the negative battary cable.

And don't worry, I'll post detailed instructions and pictures as soon as I get the chance (Probably this weekend).

 

Thank you so much! I was thinking that might be the case after reading the repair manual, but I didn't want to be unpleasantly surprised, so I prepared for the worst. I'll still expect to take some time with it, but I will definitely be much less scared now - thank you!

 

Ok, new information about the pin to get the fog light power from pin 8 of the 2C connector. The part number 82998-24350 is for a 160mm (about 6") pigtail that has the connector already crimped on. So no need for a special crimping tool. That's the good news. Part number 82999-12030 is just a butt splice connector for attaching the pigtail to the rest of the harness - no need to order that, just solder/heat-shrink or use your usual butt splice connectors. The reason the pigtail is not available to order yet is because it has been mistakenly listed as a Lexus-only part. I'm assuming that is also why it does not show up on parts.com and similar sites. In theory you could order it now from a Lexus dealership, but Toyota dealerships are not allowed to order it yet. However, my local parts guy spent a while on the phone and says that he reached the right person to get this updated. It will take a couple of days he said, but after that, you should be able to order it from any dealership for $14.95 or something like that. Yeah, still way too much for a freakin' pin, but for those of us with a fetish for as-close-to-stock-as-possible installs, it's the only way to go for now... other than 'borrowing' the pin from the unused connector, as jayvee discussed above.

 

Correct. I do NOT have a receptacle on my ECU for L8. I know that you have a IV with NAV, same as me - but you have a solar roof - I don't. I have no idea why that makes a difference, since if the only three wires on both of our L8's have to do with LED headlamp circuits, why would the ECU need L8 to be connected? Very strange.....

I suspect that maybe they use the same ECU for solar roof as for the Advanced Technology package (for the V), and it simply has a receptacle for L8. Maybe some of the advanced technology or other "V" connections go to L8 as well - that would explain a lot. Even though they don't NEED L8 to be connected on yours, they do anyway, because there is a receptacle for it. Better than letting it hang loose, perhaps....

 

I agree - I'd (grudgingly) spend the 14.95 to get a pre-wired pin, and be sure that the pin itself was designed to carry 15A. I may wait to see if I can get that pin, too. Please let us know when and if you're able to order it from someplace. Thanks Rachael!

 

After viewing all of these posts, I think I will just take my IV model and exchange it for a V model w/foglights!

 

Certainly the easiest solution!

 

Unless you want a sun roof. I think putting fog lights on mine was a lot easier than cutting a hole in the roof.

 

Hmm.. I expect my install to be simple plug and play mostly.

Am I the only one planning to use wiring and switch supplied in the Yaris ebay kit? I see people trying to figure out how to use factory stalk switch and existing wiring etc... I stopped reading all the details. More I look at it, I think just using the wiring supplied in the kit seems more simpler.

Anyway, my oem light covers arrived yesterday. My ebay foglight installed perfectly on the covers. Just need to pop them into the bumper I guess. I can't wait to hook it up this weekend. Pictures and details to follow next week.

 

I'm using the kit wiring, just trying to find a switch that I like. Have my lights installed with a switch that doesn't fit, strapped under the hood, always on so that the fogs turn on with the low beams. Will pick a switch and install that this weekend.

 

For those interested in an OEM fog-light headlight stalk. Mine cost about a hundred bucks from autopartspeople.com. The installation went smoothly and surprisingle quickly.


Let’s be clear, I am posting a detailed history of what I did. I am not providing any kind of advice. Before undertaking anything similar, please do your own research and diligence. The following is how I added the headlight stalk with fog light switch. My explanations follow the order of the pictures.

First, I disconnected a terminal on the accessory battery and waited 15 minutes to let the system discharge. The rest of the procedure is about 30 minutes long. Here’s what I did:

1. Pushed in on “Aâ€. Repeated on opposite side of the wheel. There are two clips. I pushed in on the bottom piece of the flashing, not the top piece. Then I reached behind “B†and unclipped it, pulling downwards toward the floor.

2. Turned the steering wheel 90 degrees and pushed in by the arrow. Turned the wheel the other direction, and repeated. This removed the bottom flashing. I then unclipped ALL of the wiring harnesses. The YELLOW harnesses are for the airbag. This one required me to slide the catch up before removing the connector. It works differently then the other style connecters that require lifting of the catch. No lifting was required, just sliding.

3. Rotated the steering wheel. There are two clips here. I put a small screwdriver in at the indicated place (where it is loosest) and lifted up just enough to get a grip on it with my fingers. I lifted some more and disengaged the exposed clips with the screwdriver by pushing down on the clip.

4. Same as in step 3, but here you can see one of the exposed clips after I lifted it a little.

5. The spring clip holds the front pad on. Using a screwdriver, I pushed down (Toward the center of the steering wheel) until the pad released. There is a spring, so simply pushing down causes it to spring out. I repeated this on the other side.

6. The pad the comes right out. There are three connectors. I used a small screwdriver and lifted up on the wire harness locks. The wire harness then lifts upward (away from the back of the airbag). There is a black wire that is hard to see in the picture. It looks like it pulls right off but it doesn’t. There is a small catch that must be depressed. The catch is on the side farthest away from the center of the airbag. Depress it and it will come off, releasing the front pad. I placed this in a safe place.

7. I removed the two indicated wire harnesses in this picture.

8. I straightened the wheel and lined it up with the top piece of flashing that I hadn’t removed yet. Then I placed a mark on the screw and the wheel. You’ll see a mark on the nut, but I only did it to help me get a straight line. I was worried that precision was key here, but it wasn’t. The teeth cause it to line up either right on, or noticeably off. It was easy putting it back.

*** Where is the picture showing the steering wheel puller??? Well, Advance Auto Parts (local auto parts supplier) provides free rentals, so I rented one. But I didn’t need it! Once the nut was removed, the wheel needed only a slight tug to pop off. And by slight, I mean slight. My car may be unique in this, I don’t know. But if I had to use the puller, I’d just follow the instructions that came with the puller. They were very straight forward.

9. After removing the wheel, I popped the top flashing off of the steerign wheel column. Then I removed the revolving wire harness. See picture. Three tab clips holds it on. Treat it carefully, and make sure the cover does not come off.

10. One tab clip holds on the wiper stalk

11. this is the view from the top of the headlight stalk. Squeeze the spring closed AND simultaneously, lift the tab clip. The stalk slides right off.

12. Finished the removal.
Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly. I’ll note that everything clicked on and snapped in place perfectly. It was reassuring to here the clicks as each part snapped into place. The steering wheel lines up easily, and I tightened the bolt. The only actuall screw or bolt in the whole process. The pad gets pushed in place. If you refer to picture 5, I squeezed the two pieces of metal together at the gap point. I did not press on the front of the pad. I also held the spring clip down a bit as i squeezed the parts together. When it clicked, it was in. When everythig was reassembled, i checked everything. No airbag warngin lights. headlight stalk worked great, and the fog light was activating the relay. teh wiper stalk worked. the turn signals worked, the horn is fine, the buttons on the steering wheel work, and the wheel feels good and solid.


I know all of this sounds like a lot, but I am trying to be very detailed. The whole thing was very quick. If I wasnt' worried about taking so many pictures, I could have cut even more time out of the install.


If you have any questions, let me know.

 

Wow, thank you so much!!! We're not worthy! :hail:

 

Fantastic detail, hawkmoon, thank you very much!!

 

I keep thinking of the James Bond style 'fog lights:'


Then to visit the set of "Top Gear" ...

Bob Wilson

 

No. There is at least one more person (me) planning on doing it that way. I could care less about using an updated stalk switch. What's wrong with just using a toggle switch that fits into one of the unused switch positions on the dash?

Besides, removing the steering wheel and digging into all that circuitry around the airbag is not my cup of tea.

I'll add a fuse-protected relay inside the engine compartment to allow the foglights to be turned on or off by a low current dash mounted toggle switch, making it unnecessary to run 12 volts all the way to the dash.

This way the task is simpler, and will allow me to turn on the foglights no matter what other lights are on or off. Of course this method will not provide a way for the foglights to turn off automatically after you leave the car, but I can live with that.