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2001 prius battery problem and pictures

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by statultra, Aug 2, 2009.

  1. statultra

    statultra uber-Senior Member

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    A couple weeks ago, my 2001 prius would drive normally for about 10 miles then decide to go into limp mode, turtle light triangle brake light, check engine light.

    I also noticed that the MFD shows the battery as full, then all of a sudden it would drop to the last "bar" then recharge, that would happen about 5 times then the warning lights come up.

    This prius was a salvage car restored, roughly 40-50k miles later this starting happening. the vehicle was not covered under any warranty so the battery seal TSB was not performed on this car.

    I have worked on the HV battery before, with my charger, so I understand the dangers associated with high DC voltage.

    Today I removed the HV battery from the vehicle and examined the copper plates which were severely corroded.

    Here is the imageshack gallery:
    ImageShack Gallery

    [imglink]http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/613/img8102m.jpg[/imglink]
    [imglink]http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3261/img8103o.jpg[/imglink]

    this is the area with worst corossion, i recorded the lowest voltage accross on this module, 7.2 volts vs the rest which were 7.8 volts.

    [imglink]http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4018/img8104.jpg[/imglink]


    heres some questions, would any experts here suggest removing copper plates, cleaning them with a solution and wipe around the positive and negative terminals, then applying a sealant ?

    also can i use muriatic acid to clean the oxidation off the copper?
     
  2. john1701a

    john1701a Prius Guru

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    There was a TSB which added sealant to prevent corossion.

    It's likely your Prius didn't have that work done, but could still benefit. There may be details in the TSB of what to look for and how to deal with it. Sorry, I don't have the number readily available... but someone else may chime in for that.
    .
     
  3. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    I'd say that if the battery terminal posts themselves aren't
    corroded too badly it's definitely worth cleaning up the copper
    bar strips and reassembling. Using de-oxit or some other contact
    cleaner/restorer couldn't hurt, as well as a bit of elbow grease
    with scotchbrite or something nastier where needed. You're possibly
    fortunate that the reseal TSB wasn't done, as that makes the
    second go-round on that job much messier -- then you'd have to
    soak all the old goo off with acetone or somethibg and then get
    back down to bare copper.
    .
    While the pack is apart into separate modules you can individually
    load-test and re-equalize each one and determine which if any
    really have gotten weaker over time.
    .
    Hopefully you've got something else to drive in the meantime,
    as all this might take a while!
    .
    _H*
     
  4. statultra

    statultra uber-Senior Member

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    i checked all the batteries with a volt meter, i got the copper plates off and the orange things surrounding it, the terminals itself look really clean.

    I measured 7.8 volts on all the individual modules except for one, which read 6.5 volts. This set that read this low voltage had some real good corrosion.

    Luckily i finished rebuilding the accord hybrid in time, so I have that and the 05 prius to drive.

    I was planning on repainting the 2001 prius and this ruined my plans


    also I was wondering since each module is 7.8 volts wouldn't that make the total voltage 296? which is considerably too high i think.

    My guess is the compression was giving the battery ECU a false capacity reading and making the hybrid system charge the battery continuously
     
  5. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    One NiMH cell has 1.2 V so, 6.5+1.2 = 7.7 :: that module has a failed cell. The corrosion is consistent with the failure of a terminal seal on that module. The electrolyte, KOH, would have leaked out and caused the corrosion.

    There are two approaches:

    1. isolated module failure - it is possible that one module could be replaced and restore functionality. Seeing corrosion on only one module is a good sign.
    2. all modules worn out - the true test is to measure the remaining Ahr capacity of the modules. If at or under 2.2 Ahr, I would call them worn out.
    Bob Wilson
     
  6. krousdb

    krousdb NX-74205

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    296V is too high for a Gen 2 but it's fine for a Gen 1. Gen 1 is 274V nominal, the Gen 2 is 202V nominal.
     
  7. statultra

    statultra uber-Senior Member

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    ok i made a typo, the one that measured 6.5 is located where there was no visible corossion, Im thinking that maybe the corossion could cause varying voltages between the modules.


    i also checked each module to the battery case, one of the modules, specifically the one that had major corrosion read 2.4 volts to the battery case, the rest of them read 0 volts.


    the bus bars are removed and i cleaned them and have them sealed until im ready to reinstall, tommorow im probably going to buy some 3m contact adhesive similar to what toyota used for the TSB.


    im not sure whether or not to keep going with this battery or to purchase a salvage battery
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The reason the battery is showing wild swings in SOC is because you have a bad module.

    You're wasting your time working on this battery unless you can replace the one module which is at 6.5V. However single module replacement is likely to be a short-term fix only.

    Your traction battery ECU may have logged DTC P3009 "high voltage leak" fault code, as well as a DTC related to the failed module pair.

    Classic salvage batteries tend to be pretty expensive since the demand seems to be greater than supply; while the expected remaining lifetime of the salvage battery may not be too great since it typically will be at least six years old. If you plan to keep your car you might do better buying two 2G battery assemblies and taking 38 modules out of the 56 available to install in your Classic battery case.
     
  9. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Ok, now I am confused. Where is the VOM probe being applied? The center post, nut or bus-bar that links adjacent cells? The terminal post will give the most accurate reading.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    The terminals come out of the plastic case and have an O-ring seal. The module on the right, a failed module, had leakage around the O-ring and the photo shows some of gunk used in the sealing TIS.

    If you get a chance, it would help to get a reading of all modules number 1-38 where 1 is adjacent to the control electronics. This will give a rough indication of how the modules have aged.

    The electrolyte, KOH, is 'slippery' stuff as it combines with the fats on our skin to make soap. Any that leaks will make a conductive path to ground but the stuff is dang near invisible. The Prius system detects very high resistances under 10 MOHM and declares them to be a fault. It may be worth while to try and measure the DC resistance between the terminal of each module and the case. There is no guarantee but any module that shows a detectable resistance would be one I'd schedule for a through cleaning, drying and wipe down.

    GOOD LUCK!
    Bob Wilson
     
  10. Mike Dimmick

    Mike Dimmick Active Member

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    1.2V is actually a very low voltage for a NiMH cell, and approximates to a completely discharged cell. The following chart is for NiCd but NiMH is reportedly similar:

    [​IMG]

    (source)

    The chart for Gen 2 State-of-Charge reporting looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    (source)

    7.8V per module comes to 1.3V per cell, which would appear as four bars while discharging but only two when charging; 6.6V for that module is pretty much dead. I wouldn't say that 6.6V necessarily indicated a shorted cell in that module, it could be more than one cell with low output, but I don't think it would be recovered by charging.
     
  11. statultra

    statultra uber-Senior Member

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    more pictures to clear up some confusion

    the module that reads voltage to the case
    [IMGLINK]http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/6638/img8116m.jpg[/IMGLINK]

    corossion underneath the module
    [IMGLINK]http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/1006/img8112.jpg[/IMGLINK]

    how i read the voltages red is the positive probe and black is neg
    [IMGLINK]http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/2994/img8117.jpg[/IMGLINK]

    heres a link to the gallery
    ImageShack Gallery

    from the battery computer the modules 1-30 were fine, i think it was 31 or 32 which read 6.5 volts, this module had no visible corossion.

    im suprised that the module which is reading voltage to ground is still good reading 7.8 volts, maybe it is the KOH leaking and its virtually invisible to my eyes, i got my hands on some dielectric cleaner and 3M electrical compound, but im thinking of taking apart the battery case and removing some of the modules with massive corossion on the bottom, i somewhat want to do this right so i wont have problems in the future.


    to take apart the battery case i would remove the restraining bar on the top of the whole thing and the modules should pop out? also looking at the bottom of the case, i see 10 MM bolts which seem to hold each module in place.

    im not sure where to go from here, im thinking of charging the module with 6.5 volts and doing a load test to see whats going on.

    would a 04-09 prius module work on the 01 prius battery? is it physically the same size? i understand its the same voltage, but does it have the same power? i find that the 04-09 prius used HV battery are considerably cheaper than a 01-03.
     
  12. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Good! Pictures are little big but too big is easier than too little.

    That sounds right to me too.

    One on each end, a total of 2*38.

    They are not interchangeable within the same pack. However, I've long suspected that two NHW20 packs could be salvaged, 2*28 modules, to make one pack.

    To do it right, you'll need an NiMH charger that can quantify the modules and leave them at the same state of charge. The key is you want the modules to be balanced with the weakest and strongest left out of the pack.

    Bob Wilson
     
  13. statultra

    statultra uber-Senior Member

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    how hard is it to dissassemble the pack, for example to remove one module?

    from what i can see the vent hoses just pop off and there are clamps for the restraining rod, and then the thermistors.

    so once those are removed should a module pop out once i unbolt the 10 mm screw underneath?

    also, would that 6.5 v module cause a DTC?

    and lastly, to clean the goop can i use 90+ % ethyl alcohol?
     
  14. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    1) Disassembly to remove one module has been done "in the car" before. Since it is on a bench, I have much more confidence in your prospects.

    2) The two, 10 mm screws and a little flat-screw driver leverage.

    3) The 6.5V module would trigger one of the two codes. The leak to ground would do the other.

    Bob Wilson
     
  15. statultra

    statultra uber-Senior Member

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    ill take out the module that is leaking to ground today, i cleaned out the visible areas of the module and its still leaking, so today ill lift up the module and take a look underneath.
     
  16. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Treat that KOH with respect (material handling datasheet!)

    I wear protective goggles and have a bucket of water nearby. That stuff will dissolve any organic material including skin.

    Bob Wilson
     
  17. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    The electrolyte isn't *that* nasty. It feels soapy, as you'd
    expect from a base. Just rinse it off with water. It in fact
    is one of the more environmentally benign battery electrolytes
    going.
    .
    _H*
     
  18. statultra

    statultra uber-Senior Member

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    ok bob wilson remember how you said the electrolyte is damn near invisible? well it sure is because i wiped down the terminals with alcohol and dielectric cleaner,and the battery that read voltage to ground still read 2.5.

    I decided to seal around the terminals with the stuff toyota uses, ( similar stuff just not the same color ) 3m electrical compound, so I proceeded to seal around the terminals. 2 hours later after it dried somewhat i checked for voltage across each module to the battery case 0 Volts, not even 0.01 volts, i was suprised, so this electrolyte is sure invisible.

    the rust under module 3-4 was due to electrolyte leakage, the module itself is in good condition. The 6.5 volt module handled a charge to 7.8 and is holding it, upon a load test it still stayed at 7.8 volts, my guess is the corrosion lead to varying charges of a few modules.


    Here are pictures of the final product, tommorow ill reinstall the bus bars and give it a try. wish me luck

    i know the goop looks like a fluid grease type of thing, but its harder than the plastic on the battery.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I need to find pictures of the battery from 6 years ago, I believe i posted them somewhere. it would show the change in the corrosion over the years.
     
  19. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Were you able to identify the modules that were the source of leak? The reason is under normal operation, these modules generate gas and considerable internal pressure. I hope I'm wrong but there is a chance the remaining electrolyte may 'leak out' some more.

    It sounds as if the other modules may be in fairly good shape.

    GOOD LUCK!

    Bob Wilson
     
  20. statultra

    statultra uber-Senior Member

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    module 3 and 4 had a leak probably there for years, and those two modules had the most corodded bus bars.

    the stuff i put on is VERY hard now, you cannot even scratch it off, maybe a tiny bit more will leak but it sure beats reading 2.5 v to the battery case.