Despite the Synthetic Oil requirement, 5000 mile change intervals are still "required"

Really? What makes jack stands more secure than ramps? I don't have any experience on either but have imagined the stands tend to tip over. :redface: Thanks!

 

Good quality jack stands are very stable. I've actually dented a cars fender when it was on jack stands when I slipped and fell into it and didn't even make it budge on the stands.

You -can- damage a car putting it on jack stands however. The floor jack can/will remove some paint from the "frame" you jack against. Be very careful when you lower the car onto the stands. There is NO give and you can bend the metal at the "jack points" on the side sills if you "drop" the car onto the stands. I made plywood inserts for the top of my stands so the weld seam fits into a groove, preventing it from being bent (the wood is in compression so doesn't give either or break). Most of the strength of the jack point is from the weld seam right angle. The car is lifted by the cars' supplied jack on the parts on each side of the seam and that's where it rests on my jackstands. The weld seam prevents those parts from bending. I suspect if you lowered the car onto the seam hard enough you could bend it over and then collapse the sill (upwards of course).

Ramps can collapse unless you get good quality ones, though the Prius probably doesn't put them in much risk as it's so light (3000ish pounds). With my ramps there is always the danger the car may roll down them, but they won't collapse. Which is why I hinted at improvements. For example, make a "flat" portion at the top so the car won't roll off them. But then they would be much heavier, more unwieldy, and require more wood to make. Because I work on the oil change and inspection from the front, and because the car would roll backwards, I feel my ramps are quite safe. Wheel chocks would limit or prevent roll-back (but don't tell Wal-Mart that!).

 

Yep - I use 2x4s with a groove that fit over the groove. Like this but without the pin sticking out. Floor Jack Adapter For Late Model Cars

Heh, reminds me of the time I helped a poor lady get her car off of her collapsed emergency jack. She must not have put had it on the seam and the jack slipped out under the floorboard, raising the floorboard 3-4 inches. Luckily no-one was hurt!

When using ramps, I like to use plastic ones, but I often have problems with ramps slipping when trying to drive up them unless the ground is fairly rough.

 

You don't have to remove the smooth air skid cover under the engine to get at the oil drain bolt. I was watching one of the videos that ran a film of the undercarriage and the oil drain bolt has no cover over it. Reach back remove the plug and drain the oil.

I would assume the oil filter being a cartridge type is located inside the engine bay. If anyone has a picture of that I would sure like to see it posted here.

Dan

 

Access to oil drain plug and filter cap. Three push pins have to be removed from the panel rear, then pull the panel down. Filter cap is 64mm X 14 flats, same as the Gen 1 & 2 filter. Make sure and get a quality one as the cap is reused, unlike a typical spin-on filter.



Wayne

 

Maybe 0-20 will get cheaper over time as it is more mass produced.
There probably aren't many cars using it now.

In the meantime $8-$9 per quart and $70 oil changes every 5000 miles is outrageous! Many other new cars have $29.99 Express Lube changes at the dealer every 7,500 or 10K miles. Big difference.

I bet 90% of Prius buyers will not have any idea this regular expense is coming and will be in for a nasty and angry surprise when they have their first service visit.

 

Thank you Wayne. I really appreciate you posting a picture. That does not look bad at all. I was hoping that it would be under the hood within easy reach like my Mercedes SLK. I will use Toyota filters because Toyota designed them for the Prius and the fact they are changed every 5,000 miles. Out with the old and in with the new.

Dan

 

Changing oil is one of the easiest and most enjoyable maintenance items. An oil change is quick and easy. I use Mobile 1 across the fleet and can get-er done for under $30. Tiz a joy for me.

Dan

 

Oil changes are easy on some cars.
The posts in this thread show it to be very DIY unfriendly on the 2010 Prius.
It is difficult to get under the car because most ramps won't allow clearance under the bumper, then you have extra underbody disassembly that you would not have seen other in your other cars.
Mobil 1 is not allowed on this car.

 

Why do car makers not think to make oil capacity work out to even amounts?
Why 4.1 or 4.4 quarts? Why not 4.0 or 5.0 so there is no waste or left overs?

 

Any more word on this Mobil 1 debacle? I'm leaning towards this being BS third hand information. I can believe a dealer told someone they can't bring in their own oil- "umm yeah that Mobil 1 you bought doesn't have the special ionized molecules and would interfere with plasmacluster"

Do you even have to ask - so they can charge for a full 5 and use the extra on the next guy.

 

After all the build up in this thread that actually looks really easy to access.

My only concern is about the pricing and availability of the filter cartridge to do oil changes at home. I long ago learned not to trust anyone else to work on my cars but myself.

 

That makes it perfect for all the world except USA/UK, or should I say the non-British imperial measure world.

The countries that respect the ISO measurement units will use the 4 L bottles and be very happy with it. I'm betting 4.2 liters is up to the full mark, and 4 liters will be a few mm bellow the full mark.

If I'm correct in my assumptions then this is perfect. Finally the end to all the oil overfills is at sight! YES!!!

 

I'm also interested to know why Mobil 1 cannot be used. I've taken Mobil 1 synthetic to the service center on my FJ and Corolla and it's never been a problem. The 09 Corolla and the 2010 Prius have the same 1.8L engine...

I've been told that the cost of the synthetic oil should bump up the charges roughly $30-$35 depending on how many quarts. The 3K service would then be about $75 and the 5K service would be about $175. hwell:

 

add note: No 5w-20 Mobil 1 in Japan. Only 0w-20 available.

This is where the don't use M1 BS started and the only other thing related to it online is this thread.
JobbersWorld Online
20 years and over a million miles for me says otherwise.

On sale at Advance Auto Parts in N WV, SW PA, and W MD.
5 Quarts of MOBIL 1 Synthetic, High Mileage Synthetic OR Extended Performance Synthetic Motor Oil AND a
MOBIL 1 Oil Filter (Includes Mobil 1 Filters up to $13.99)
$29.99 thru Jun 24(thats less than the oil alone per 1qt)

0w-20w and 5w-20w now stocked all the time in this area. Something new in the last year or so. 5w-20w required for Ford Escape when it was new model but you couldn't find it and even the Ford dealers used 5w-30w(yes they did). Other 5w-20w vehicles I have in fleet Ford E350 15 passenger van with 5.8L V8 and 2009 Honda Odyssey LX.
Notes on changing the oil in the Honda just the opposite of the prius ie can use 0w-20w for real winter temps but switch back to 5w-20w for warmer temps. Also on paper oil change is difficult but in real world was easiest change I've ever done. Just a sitting one arm reach inside a full right lock right front tire for both filter and drain. Manual said 4.3 qts. It took all 5 qts to middle of hatched area on dipstick.

IMO, oil is the life blood of your $30,000 to $40,000 (with interest)$500+/month investment. If $30 to $50 a couple times a year busts your budget maybe you should walk. (zero carbs and fresher air)(And we can EV up behind you and blow the horn. ha ha ha)

 

Only 2 "Official" synthetic motors oil for new Toyota engines including 2010 Prius. Guess witch brands. but any oil that meets the ILSAC GF-4 energy conserving and API SM/CF is all thats required by Toyota. They only tested theirs and Nippon


Eneos oil is Nippon oil. Making push for US market share
ENEOS Nippon Oil :: Sigma Automotive
ENEOS - News

Add that Toyota "Relaunched" their branded motor oil line last year.

 

From the Mobil 1 website:

Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy

Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy is engineered to deliver outstanding engine protection and to offer improved fuel economy in vehicles where SAE 0W-20 or 5W-20 oil is recommended. This low friction, fully synthetic formula increases engine efficiency and offers the best fuel economy in the Mobil 1 line. Over the life of your vehicle, Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy can save over $400 in fuel costs.

Fuel Savings Worksheet
Cumulative Miles 50,000100,000150,000Estimated Savings*$147$294$441*Based on 20 MPG, $3/gal gasoline and a potential 2% fuel economy improvement (based on a comparison versus those grades most commonly used). Actual savings are dependent upon vehicle/engine type, outside temperature, driving conditions and your current engine oil viscosity.
To calculate your fuel saving potential, use our Savings Calculator.

Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy outperforms conventional oils and meets or exceeds warranty requirements for many Ford, Honda, Toyota, Mazda, Mitsubishi and Chrysler vehicles. Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy is recommended for SAE 0W-20 and 5W-20 applications, and is suitable for the following:

• ILSAC GF-4 energy conserving
• API SM/CF
• Chrysler MS-6395
• Ford WSS-M2C930-A

It rounds out a lineup of Mobil 1 products that are engineered to help keep your engine running like new. Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy exceeds the industry's toughest standards in its class and outperforms all conventional oils. It offers exceptional performance under all operating conditions, pours at temperatures as low as -53°F (-47°C) and protects at oil temperatures as high as 400°F (205°C). It is specifically designed for applications requiring an SAE 5W-20 oil such as most Fords, Hondas and 2005 Chryslers.

• Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy is especially suitable for extreme conditions where conventional oil often cannot perform.

• It is not recommended for 2-cycle or aviation engines, unless specifically approved by the manufacturer.