PHEV mod under way, Bristol, UK.

anyone already tested the canview on the 2010?
just to see if info is presented like MG1 rpms and currents and stuff

 

I think there is a thread somewhere overhere saying that Toyota came with completely new codes/software for 2010 model line. So, if true it will take some time to reverseengineer and update the CanView soft before going public.. edit: I think they talked about Scangauge's not compatibility -> so stands to reason that CanView with pre 2010 firmware/software won't work either, just a guess..

 

where is ths topic..... can not believe it. damm

i hope the canview will be updated....

edit

sorry nikki i am to fast for you again haha

 

omg the OEM plugin prius

so you now someone in the UK thats driving it or going to drive it?

WAUWWWWWWW i need a vacation to the UK SOON.

 

Nikki, great video, I'm glad your are using that charge status external signal.
Was it hard to prey into the back light assembly, perhaps you should seal it from moisture.. ?

 

aminorjourney,

please keep us posted... with lots of pix if it is permitted. :rockon:

 

I Love this guy, it shows that doesn't drive a Prius and in "undercover"...
You remind me our past "vice-president Chaney", never to be found anywhere; but left the convenience political position with chock'full of gold..............
Why are you wasting your time being "nothing"?

 

"mrbigh" what is your problem? Despite the fact you boast about your PHEV conversion rolling since B.C., your factual contribution to this thread/topic has been "nothing" of interest recently..

 

Nikki, I've noticed your post in the PHEV sub forum about your prospective UK business venture, since you are going to evaluate various suppliers, you might consider the implementation of that high speed stealth kit (<52mph EV) as linked 2pages before.. Finally some sort of hands on validation of this method for EU ver. Prius will be much appreciated.

 

this is so great nikki
i hope it al works out

maybe do a UK trip to have a feel for the 2010 plugin please

please be a little more nice to another.

about Mesuge not about you

who is this undercover guy anyway
a VW or toyota undercover guy
////////////////////////////////
nikki about the BMSplus

do you also notice that when driving in BMS auto mode the voltage drops to 189 and then the ice starts to rev really high..
and when this combined with a moment where you need to accelerate to go on the highway you get lose of power because the system is trying to priori charge the pack back up..

i notice this often.

 

Leon, what software version are you using? I'm not going through
the same problem on acceleration.................

 

not on acceleration
buth when i drive in EV mode and the voltage go´s down to 195 volts and i letgo of the gas pedal so the ICE wil not start at that point
then when i hitt the gas padel again the voltage drops to 189 volt and the ice kicks in directly pfcourse buth because the virtual SOC then is down to 40% or so the ice revss up a lot and i lose power when i also want to accelerate at the same moment.

i use BLjan279

 

Nikki, if you are still wondering about the cooling arrangement for your diy PHEV OEM batt. setup, there is an inspiration from Hymotion kit, the air duct takes is from the spare tire area to the left..
pictures here: REVIEW: Hymotion Battery Plug-In Prius - CleanMPG Forums

Plus the general air flow inside the vehicle can be augumented via Hobbit's A/C blower hack
(low energy consumption & power selectable):
http://www.techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/nest/

 

Hi Nikki and everyone else. Thanks in advance for all the great contributions. I'm eagerly awaiting my parts in the mail to basically follow Nikki's setup using Norm's BMS+ and CAN-View on a 2008 Prius. I have only one extra pack right now. I'm in process of testing it to be sure that it's OK - no bad cells, just got my linesman's gloves!

Here's my question: What is the best way to parallel in this one pack while allowing a second (and third?) pack to be added later. I plan on using Andersons to connect to OEM following cal-cars method. Can the cal-cars setup (I'll be using #6 AWG BTW) accomodate several future packs on that same bolt or do I need to splice in more than one place for future packs.?

One other question - hope this isn't a dumb question but when I connect the zivan ng3, do I just plug it in to yet another set of wires bolted into the splice points via another Anderson? This preserves parallel topology but seems kludgey.

 

just one pack.. get a second one really you need to. i have found that you need 2 packs with the oem one to get any real usable range.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm trying to keep costs down but I'm sure you're right. I need to start searching for that next pack. I wanted to collect some data on two total just out of curiosity but it sounds like there might be some problems with just two total - more heat generated, etc.

I'm hopefully going to visit someone nearby who has installed Norm's BMS+.

So regarding the wiring - any recommendations? I've attached a crude diagram.