any market for a subwoofer enclosure?

I strongly suggest the left rear, because you can go down below the existing cover for more volume (you need about .7 Cu Ft for a 10"). Plus you would have to remove the sub to get to the battery if you use the right side. do a search - there are some good pics of someone's one-off enclosure here on the forum.

I'd pay a hundred for a nicely molded one for the left side. I'm using a down-facing box now and it takes up "trunk" room.

 

Gee, if I do get my 2010, the sub enclosure from my 2005 left side cubby will be available.

Wayne

 

A custom fiberglass enclosure, that would fit into the cubby area, would easily run $300+ at most high end car audio shops. At least here in CA. where overhead is higher than most states. The price would change if the end product was to be gel-coated and painted vs. carpeted. Hand sanding gel-coating can take many hours so carpet is a nice way to clean things up and stay cheap.

Hyo, I would definately be interested in one or two of them. The amount of airspace required for a 10" sub would likely require using the airspace in your favorite cubby though.

I'll talk to my fiberglass gurus at work and see what they think and maybe we can come up with a workable plan and you can build one and determine what it is worth to you to build them for others. I know from a business standpoint you cannot make these cheaply but if you have no overhead you can charge whatever you want and not take a loss.

Here is how the basic box would likely appear. This is a JL Audio stealth box for a 1998-2002 Camaro/Firebird.




JL Audio: Products

 

F8L - wow, your side subs in the F-body gave me dejavue! remember those huge enclosures that fit in the rear part of the trunk? i had one of those! BIG sound!

 

I do! I had one in my Trans Am. lol No wonder I'm deaf.

 

Given a resonable price, and a quality product, I would be interested. I do love the driver's side compartment also, but would be willing to relocate that stuff for some added boom boom.

... Brad

 

Same here!

 

I've been kicking around the idea of doing a fiberglass enclosure on the passenger side cubby of my '06 Prius for a while now. I've got a 12" in a 1.2 ft³ enclosure that sits on the rear deck, just under the tonneau cover. It takes up room, but we've gotten used to working around it. I've procrastinated so long now that I'm in the market for a 2010 and probably won't do it for the '06.
I would be interested in one of the enclosures for a 2010....either side really will work. Several have made these enclosures for the Gen II Prii and posted pictures here on PC.....they've done both driver and passenger side cubby enclosures. There's about 0.66 ft³ available on the passenger side and more like 1+ ft³ available air space with the drivers side enclosure. A 10" is the biggest I've heard of anybody using in these enclosures. There's plenty of 10" subs out there that will work fine in 0.66 ft³.
I was considering a JL Audio 10W3v2.
Like I said, I'd be interested in one for a 2010 if the price is right.

 

Has anyone tried the JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 "Flatwedge" Subwoofer?

 

Spamming every thread with the same question is not appreciated....

 

sorry about that. I tried to post a photo of the JL but, being a newbie, the forum said I needed at least 5 posts in order to post a photo. So, I posted 5 times. Did not mean to spam.

 

We generally use fiberglass fabric instead of the messy mesh-looking stuff.

The speaker has a range of volume it can work in. You will be concentrating on the "sealed" requirements. There is usually a manufactures "recommended" enclosure size and then there is a minimum size. The closer you get to the minimum size the louder the sub will play at a narrow frequency range but you sacrifice smoothness and low bass extension (won't play as loud at low frequencies). If you go above the "recommended" size you simply lose some output and run the risk of losing control of the subwoofer because there is not enough suspension due to too much air. In the latter case just think of how bad a speaker plays when sitting on the floor with no enclosure at all. It just flaps around and you get no bass.

As for shape, as long as you avoid creating 2 parallel flat surfaces then you will be fine. I.E. since the front of the box where the sub mounts will be relatively flat, try to make the back of the box, opposite the sub, not so flat. This will help avoid standing waves or sound waves reflecting off of the back wall and bouncing back through the cone of the sub and either causing cancelation or distortion.

 

For sure. You will need a very thick layer of fiberglass to keep the box from flexing, breaking, or resonating. I'm thinking at least 1/4" - 1/2" of glassing. With our heavy duty subs we require 1" MDF for box construction. The thing needs to sound "dead". Like the different between knocking on sheet of tin or a sheet of 2" steel.