Hymotion and 52 MPH EV Mode -

Interestingly, Mike, I can get 31 mph before my EV mode cancels!

But...

I think perhaps the thing we should all be thinking about is how the Toyota PHEV prius works. Reports are that it's simply a modified BMS/ECU program and a second OEM pack, similar to my own DIY mod. Given that and some thought, perhaps the high speed mode is okay - but only if you can cancel it without a reboot!


Nikki.

 

I am assuming that using 52 MPH in pure EV mode would deplete the battery much quicker than going the same speed using the Hymotion pack without the 52 MPH EV mode. Right now I get about 30 miles using the Hymotion pack as normal. I'm only getting maybe 50 MPG (in 10 degree weather). If I could go 15 miles in pure EV and then average 40 MPG in standard Prius mode for the last 15, this would equate to 80 MPG overall....not bad if this would actually be the case.

 

3ProngPower of Berkeley installs the kill buttons in the drivers side "triangle window area." Driver (and passengers!) cannot hit the kill button accidentally.

Prius Dash Button Location

 

I've had mine go into the battery protect mode a couple times. I thought the Hymotion was causing it due to excessive current. How did you resolve it with this situation ? I stopped and restarted back to normal, let the car charge the battery and did Hymotion on the return trip.

---Kent

 

Sigh, you guys are so lucky..... well that's not fair as I could have worked harder in university.... I'm just so jealous.

 

Thank you so much for pointing out the real problem. Today I started out in pure EV mode and drained the Prius battery. From your post, I was able to verify by showing the SOC charge on the Scanguage which always shows the Prius Battery. I was down to 38%. Fortunately, I was at my destination waiting to pick up my son. During that time the SOC climbed to the low 50's and I was able to EV all the way home.

Now my conclusion is that we are drawing more current than we can put into the regular pack when doing a high current EV. I was doing about 45 MPH, so I was discharging the main battery faster than the Hymotion could charge it back up. I feathered the gas a little, but the real trick was sitting and letting the Hymotion charge the Prius battery.

I must say, I love this stuff.

Thanks for your insight,
---Kent

 

I tested the hypothesis tonight. When going over 40 MPH with the forced EV mode, the Prius battery is drained at a steady rate. Under 40 MPH, the Hymotion can keep it charged while moving. To avoid shutting down due to the Prius Battery you must give the Hymotion the ability to catch up on charging the stock battery. This can be done at stop light for if traffic permits feathering the accellerator.

I'm now watching the SOC on the Scanguage to make sure I do not drain the stock battery too fast.

---Kent

 

It is one of the settings for the X-Gauge. You can see all of the options on CleanMPG.com searching for Scangauge.

---Kent

 

I have the 52 MPH EV Mode on my Prius. I have a Scan Gauge II. When I start in the EV mode, I get the usual error lights (exclamation point, etc). If I clear the codes through the Scan Gauge II, they only go away for a second and then come right back.

When I restart the car in regular mode and do the same thing, the codes will only go away for a second. I can get them to go away by shutting off and on the power five times (as described in the manual).

Does anyone else have this problem or found a way around it. It's not too big of a deal shutting it on and off five times, but it would be nice if there was a quicker way to clear the codes!

 

Turn the Scangauge to watch your 12v battery voltage. When I had a low 12v battery below 11.5 the error would not clear properly. After getting the L5 Battery Booster, I have not had a single problem clearing the error codes.

---Kent

 

Thanks for the tip! I was able to get this to work by following your recommendation, zcat3. Then I also tried doing the same thing, except for leaving the Hymotion button on the whole time and it still worked. I noticed I did have to wait about 5 seconds after the airbag light went off for it to work. It's sure a lot nicer driving without all the error lights! I have not had any issues with battery voltages and clearing codes, but seems like my voltage has always been good recently...this may be a different story in the winter though! Anyway, thanks for the advice....this works great...now I can say that I actually can use the ScanGauge for the purpose for which I bought it!

 

For those of you who want to play with some of the oddball
conditions that these "high speed EV" hacks throw the car into,
I finally did finish the page about my fuel-cut switch and was
able to add a bunch of observations and my own take on the
HS-EV thing. This is easy to do without having to install
a PHEV system, limited by what the stock pack can give you.
.
I also now know that at least one of these "engine killer" mods
simply breaks the +B power connection to the engine ECM, the black
wire at E7-4. It's sort of like turning off the ignition to that
particular module, which the hybrid ECU picks up on immediately.
.
I still think there's a lot more to be gained by learning how to play
warp-stealth for all it's worth, and not at any theorized or real
risk to the car's components. Read the whole thought-process at the
webpage and its subsidiary links.
.
_H*

 

so cutting this wire ( putting a switch on it ) wil prefent the ice from starting
or will it still try to start? and unbla to do so? and set a DTC?