How hard is an oil change on this thing?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(morpheusx @ Oct 22 2007, 08:14 AM) [snapback]528777[/snapback]</div>

Well, that brings up my little pet peeve of the Prius operated in the EU - running ACEA spec motor oils - having a normal 12 month or 10,000 mile oil change interval. There are cars there running very advanced ACEA motor oils with 24 month or 30,000 mile oil change intervals.

Yet we had sludged up motors running under 7,500 mile oil change intervals here. Oh, that's right, the API/SAE declared the Cold Sludge requirement unnecessary for North America.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jayman @ Oct 22 2007, 12:32 PM) [snapback]528888[/snapback]</div>

Not to be a jerk but the furthest I would probably consider taking mine would be a 12 month or 10,000 mile oil change interval, but I probably never could take myself to do it. There is no way I would go 24 months 30,000 miles there are just too many contaminates that can get in your oil and acids from water vapor etc... I am pretty comfortable with 5,000, but after my warranty is over I will probably stretch to 7500 with full syn.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Rest @ Oct 19 2007, 05:53 AM) [snapback]527667[/snapback]</div>

Amen brother. I've always taken dino oil to at least 5,000 miles and synthetic to 10,000. I've even taken dino to 12,000 once, but that was in a cast iron Jeep I6 engine, which is close to indestructible.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(partipilo @ Oct 23 2007, 06:57 PM) [snapback]529204[/snapback]</div>

Funny that, the Jeep i6 looks a lot like the old Chrysler Valiant 245ci engine that would rattle like a box of rocks after 100,000km even when serviced by the book. I had a customer come in with his Valiant engine so sludged up it wouldn't run. Those hydralic lifters are pretty delicate. Idiot drove 2 years without an oil change! The customer lived in the most expensive part of Adelaide, Springfield but decided oil changes were a rip off. Goodness knows how some people manage to live long enough to breed.

PS it also looks like the 265 and 225 but I believe the Jeep engine is 245ci.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(patsparks @ Oct 23 2007, 07:09 AM) [snapback]529217[/snapback]</div>

Could be. I sure as hell bet the transmission was a Chrysler POS, that thing failed quite dramatically, and rather early in the car's life. Started going out around 110k, at that time it wouldn't take off from a stop without manually shifting it into L. Chrysler products really suck. But that engine was awful strong. If I was more handy, rather then junking that car, it would have made a nice generator project.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(morpheusx @ Oct 22 2007, 01:12 PM) [snapback]528932[/snapback]</div>

No, I don't think you're a "jerk." There is a LOT of disinformation out there, ironically most of it put out by the American Petroleum Institute.

http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=34433&st=20

http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=34658

That said, and I have made numerous postings on this subject, I would never take a crap "minimum spec" API oil beyond the manufacturer recommended interval without used oil analysis. As the API doesn't require their "minimum spec" oils to resists aged cold weather viscosity increase, prevent cold stuck rings, or aged cold weather sludge, even fresh out of the bottle, you could have trouble in a severe climate like mine

I've been in the Industrial Control scene for around 20 years now. In a lot of facilities, the oil in a gearbox or a papermachine system is only changed when the used oil analysis recommends the procedure. I have had PM's from a few PriusChat members challenging me on used oil analysis, asking what happens if a manufacturing defect causes a sudden failure

I'll tell you what happens: a rod blows out the side of the block or some other catastrophic failure happens. If there is a hidden manufacturing defect, you could change the oil and filter DAILY and that would NOT prevent it!

In almost all cases, a used oil analysis provides the industry accepted means of determining the life of the oil, and by inference which is proven by empirical study, the estimated health of the machine.

There are many vehicles out there equipped with bypass oil filters, in addition to the primary oil filter. Those owners are only changing their oil when the used oil analysis indicates, which could be every 3-5 YEARS.

I obviously do not have a bypass oil filter on my vehicle, but at the same time running Mobil 1 0W-20 for 16,000 km was nothing dramatic, the used oil analysis was fine.

There is one thing I really have to reiterate here: unless you do used oil analysis, you really will have no idea what an appropriate oil change interval is for your vehicle and particular driving situation.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Foxhound @ Oct 14 2007, 06:52 PM) [snapback]525645[/snapback]</div>

Really, it's pretty easy.
I use a 2 ton floor jack on the passenger side (just a little forward of the front door) and always "block" the rear wheels. The small lift gives me room for my Oil catcher bin that requires a bit of clearance. Plus it's makes it more comfortable to turn a wrench and maneuver underneath the car while I'm laying down on my back on the garage floor!
25 mins tops!

ps...I've labled the wrench that fits the oil plug for easy id when it's time to change the oil.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(skruse @ Oct 17 2007, 12:20 PM) [snapback]527016[/snapback]</div>

The Prius ICE is actually a variant of the Echo ICE, not quite the same.

Prius = 1NZ-FXE
Echo = 1NZ-FE

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_NZ_engine

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(john1701a @ Oct 14 2007, 11:53 PM) [snapback]525698[/snapback]</div>

Keep in mind, folks, that the above document has the user check oil level with the front of the car on jack stands. As with any vehicle, drop the car before checking fluid levels; you want it to be on a level surface. Especially if you're playing the micro-level adjust game.

 

I just posted a how to change the oil post
topic

 

I'm changing my own oil without any real problems, but getting under the car is a pain. I long for the days when I was driving my Honda Civic, where I could change the filter from above the engine (filter located on the side of the block) and an oil drain valve in the drain plug hole could easily be reached under the front bumper. I was able to change oil and filter in about 10 minutes on that car, the Prius takes 30. But I wouldn't go back!

 

Oddly enough, that's how most dealers work. They hire cheaper labor to do the basic services like oil changes, filter changes, wiper blades, etc.

Once I took my Mazda in for an oil change. A couple days later I had the hood up and noticed the oil fill cap missing! I went back to the dealer and they said, "We were wondering whose car that belonged to."

I just rolled my eyes...

 

Can't be much easier.......... Pull it on ramps, crawl underneath, take off filter, drain oil, put on filter, fill with oil. One of the easiest cars I have had to get to everything. I can do it in about 15 min.

 

I don't use ramps. If a bald gorilla like me can manage to squeeze under the front to reach the filter and drain plug ....

 

Seems simple, gonna try. I just got back from going to 2 places that do oil changes and one said they can't do it on any hybrids and the other said they didn't have the filter for the 2009 Prius, which I doubt is different from the 2008's.

Places should not be able to be ASE Certified if they are unable to perform the work on any commonly driven/owned model. And there are more than enough Prius' on the road that it would qualify as a commonly driven/owned model

 

You're lucky. Imagine if they had pulled into the bay, the gas motor automatically shut off, and the meth-mouth thought "huh, turned off all by itself"

Then, right in the middle of the oil change, with every drop of oil out of the motor, the HV ECU realizes the NiMH battery is getting a bit low and commands the gas motor to start

Result: a seized gas motor

Hmmm. Maybe they refuse to do oil changes on hybrids because that has already happened to them?

 

Well, a certified ASE shop should be able to train their mechanics and be sure not to do something so stupid. Oh, and my local auto supply place, had like 8 different brands of replacement filters, all in stock. So how come the lame shop I went to for the oil change didn't have it, who knows.

Anyway, did it myself, and other than the mess, it was very easy. I put the oil catch pan under and when I removed the drain plug I had it draining correctly into the catch pan, and went to wipe my hands off, (which got oil on them removing the plug). Well when I looked back, the oil was no longer landing in the catch pan, (it's draining trajectory had changed). So a lot of oil on the ground and half a roll of paper towels to get it all up.

 

My dealer offers two free oil changes per year. That takes care of that.

 

Suggest you re-align your pan so it is directly under the drain hole next time OR get a bigger pan.


Also, when removing the filter, it helps to have one of those disposable plastic red dixie cups to do the final un-screw of the filter. The filter with all the oil drops conveniently into the dixie cup with no mess to your hands. Of course, you should then drain the filter and recycle it. The cup is also re-useable for next time's oil change too!

 

For the oil filter, experiment with various empty 1 litre and 2 litre plastic pop bottles. They work well too