Need advice on another possible 12V battery failure

No help to you, but that Interstate battery you mention might be appropriate for the classic Prius because it was mirror-image. Do you have that part number?

On your's I can't image why a boosting battery would not start it. Have you checked the 12 v battery connections for corossion?

 

It sounds like 12V battery problems. It's easy to test: if your Prius boots okay with a jump, but poorly without, then the 12V battery is going south.

As for the remote, do you mean the SKS key fob? It won't cause the problems you describe. If the SKS battery is low, you can insert it into the slot on the dash. In that mode it doesn't need its internal battery.

Tom

 

Jack, which Interstate battery model did you find?

Wayne

 

Be careful with that Interstate battery.

Make sure it is not a flooded lead-acid battery and make sure it is a deep-cycle battery. Not a starting battery. Just because it is the same size doesn't mean it is a replacement - or a conspiracy by Toyota. Physical dimensions of batteries are somewhat standardized.

One more thing to check.

Do you have ANY accessories that were added to the car? Alarms, lo-jack, etc? There was a thread a while back where a guy had his battery going dead too. The thread ran in circles for a while. After a while the guy admitted to having a lo-jack in the car. Problem solved.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jack Kelly @ Oct 10 2007, 05:54 PM) [snapback]523886[/snapback]</div>

Check the tiny ground wire that runs off the 12 vdc battery and attaches to the unitbody. I checked mine after 12 months of ownership and there was a surprising amount of corrosion on the bolt that attaches the ring terminal to the unitbody.

I smeared some silicone dielectric grease on the threads and snugged the bolt up again. Every fall I get into the habit of backing off that bolt and snugging it up, to break loose any corrosion.

I hope the attached photo helps. It was taken by another PriusChat member, sorry I forget who. Looking at the battery, the negative terminal is towards the rear of the car. You can see the tiny negative ground wire and the rubber band. I managed to break my rubber band and for the life of me, cannot figure what Toyota used it for


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(n8kwx @ Oct 10 2007, 07:45 PM) [snapback]523926[/snapback]</div>

I've had the 12 vdc battery out of my Prius, and I'm pretty sure it's flooded electrolyte. You can see the fluid moving around in the cells if you move the battery around, and you can hear the liquid slosh

I've solved all battery issues with my Prius - and my FJ Cruiser - by having a VDC Electronics Battery Minder plugged in whenever I'm not using the vehicle.

 

my '04 just started to act up this way in the past week or so... remote unlock didn't work well, lamp flash was weak or non-existent, then late last week, nothing happened on PS bootup. after a few tries, the systems came up, but had lost all trip ODO memory and the doggoned backup-beep was BACK!... as if the battery had been disconnected without a bridging battery plugged in to maintain volatile memory.

i appreciate the comments, and will see if any local shops have replacement batteries. i remember reports years ago about $200-300 "battery replacement jobs" and this year is not a good year to give me a quote like that for a miniature battery.

 

I have and recommend the Optima deep cycle battery from 12 Volt (12v) Toyota Prius Auxilary Battery for 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009 with free shipping

It's probably the best battery you can buy for the Prius, and it's $165 plus $15 for a Prius hook-up kit with good instructions.

 

I suggest that you call the local Toyota dealers in your area to determine their pricing for the correct replacement 12V battery. Pricing will probably range from $130 - $160 if you buy from the parts dept and install yourself, and you won't have to worry about installing new battery terminal connectors, a venting system, etc.

 

Pat mentioned before that one can remove the tape on top of the Prius battery and then wedge up the plastic clear insert. If at that point you have access to each cell you can measure each cell, theoretically each cell should read 2.2 Volts. Will probably read something less than 2. Find the bad cell(s) add a bit of water, maybe a bit to all cells, then recharge for at least 24 hrs. Measure total bettery output. Should have improved. In the end replace battery anyway. Mine is also approaching 4 years and I have a replacement on hand. I got a used one from my son off his wifes Toyota, filed the Positive terminal down to fit, made and arrangement for the ground side and I bench charge it from time to time. Yes it is a wet cell, I drilled a hole in the side for the vent tube and keep the H2SO4 just over the plates. It fits perfect.

 

I finally had to replace my 2004 Pkg 9 12V battery on 1/22/09 at 60,900 miles. Was having the same problems as Jack Kelly and am a pro at jumping my Prius with my John Deere riding mower. I finally was stranded in cold weather too many times. The dealership put a meter on the battery and found it was "weak." The part cost 176.00 at Jim Norton Toyota in Tulsa.

My MFD is also dead - will ask a buddy if he can check out the Pin 60 diagnosis and maybe fix it for me before I shell out the $2,600 the dealership want to put in an "exchange" unit.

 

Whoa, $2600 is way too much; it should be closer to $500 for a refurbished unit. But with any luck your buddy will find the bad solder joint(s) through simple inspection, touch it/them up with an iron and some tin-lead solder (it's easier to use and more durable than tin-silver, and won't disturb the existing joints), and you'll be good to go.

 

I went with an Odyssey 925:


I went to Lowe's to get the parts for two jumpers:


The final installation with the 1 kW inverter:


The battery also needs two shims, one to the side and the other for the top clamp. I was concerned about the clearance on the side posts but there is enough room.

Bob Wilson

 

maseace is right-on...install instructions/details listed in link. free shipping too!

 

Hi Bob,

Did you mount that battery on its side? I'm wondering why the label is "upside down".

Is that battery AGM? (I hope so, if it is sideways mounted.)

I suggest that you put some insulation between the positive side post and the body - perhaps a small rubber sheet? What if your car gets hit in that left rear fender.

 

Hi Patrick,

The battery is on the side and according to their documentation and the phone call I just made, as long as the cell cover and electrodes are not 'face down,' it is fine. Still they are checking the photos I sent in an email but I suspect this is a perfectly fine installation. (If I remember correctly, the warning about orientation is printed on the side that can not be face down, the cell cover.)

It is an AGM battery with very well engineered characteristics. They designed it for 10-12 years of service life and expect it to last 8-10. After I get the solar tickle chargers in for my wife's Echo and her RV, I may put one in the Prius too. There would be a reasonable expectation of never having to replace this battery until 'the wheels fall off.'

More insulation is a thought but I don't want to put any additional stress on the terminal. But I would like a 'hood' to prevent any conductive material from falling or sliding into that gap. Something to think about next time I'm in a hardware or automotive supply store.

There are at least three other Odyssey orientations that could be used:

• rotate left 90 degrees - positive terminal on top, side (more vertical clearance.)
• rotate along horizontal, front-to-back axis by 180 degrees - both positive and negative terminals on the far side, bottom.
• rotate left 90 degrees and spin on vertical axis 180 degrees - positive terminal between outer body shell at top and negative facing the outer shell at the bottom. More clearance and protected from 'stuff' falling in the battery well.

The one orientation I would avoid puts the positive terminal closer to the inside of the battery well at the bottom.

Bob Wilson