Pull traction battery before welding?

Yes. Not removing it risks destroying it. Besides, if the accident was Metro's fault then they're paying for everything, right?

OK, you're paranoid :_> What would they replace the original with, and why would they bother?

I would take the car to a Toyota dealer immediately afterwards to check everything out. Body shops have been known to make mistakes.

 

Write down the serial number of your pack or put a secret mark on it and take a picture. Check when you get your car back.

 

Uhh... good point. But don't just record the S/N or make a secret mark: sign the case using a permanent marker. Then the shop would know that they have to be certain to re-install yours. Better to prevent a mistake than correct a mistake.

 

Are they welding near the pack? Otherwise it would seem that pulling the disconnect plug would be adequate protection.

Tom

 

Hi Tom,

Rob's original msg says the left rear quarter panel is going to be replaced, so this is within a few feet of the traction battery. It makes sense to me to have the battery removed because of the welding and to protect the battery from the baking caused by heat lamps used after the car is painted.

However the quoted price for removing/replacing the battery seems high.

 

there shouldnt be a issue with welding, but for safety i usually pull service plug.

if they are doing sheetmetal work around the area, for instance replacing the floor pans, or areas around battery, the battery surely needs to be removed.

 

Hi Rob,

My dad was the first owner of my 2004, and he had the rear quarter panel replaced after his car was hit by another driver.

After I bought the car from him, I removed the hatch interior trim while replacing the rear shocks, and noticed the Toyota identification sticker on the interior of the panel that indicated the part was a replacement part (not original with the VIN number). I also noticed that the welded seam which is visible when the hatch is opened was not exactly like the factory welded seam.

Also, the metal trim piece above the license plate is held on with four nuts. One of the nuts apparently was dropped into the hatch, so it rattles around and can be heard when the hatch is slammed shut. I haven't yet been able to figure out how to retrieve the nut; I've used a magnetic wand and inserted it into the hatch spaces but haven't been able to catch the nut yet.

Other than that, its all good.

Good luck with your repair.

 

That makes sense. Heat lamps would be a bad thing.

Tom

 

Blow in some expanding foam and freeze it in position?

 

If I were replacing a rear quarter panel I would remove the traction battery. $668 seems a bit steep for an R & R of the battery IMO though.

 

I've dropped a nut in the hatch as well. I managed to fish it out by placing a strong neodymium magnet (1.2 T) on the opposite the panel of the nut, and sliding it along to an opening. Only works of course if the nut is not blocked by any sharp bends, and the panel material is nonmagnetic. Of course, the rear hatch is aluminum (or at least some nonmagnetic alloy).

Dave M.

 

Hi Dave M.,

Thanks so much for your excellent suggestion!

To implement it, I went to the kitchen and tore off a piece of plastic wrap, made a double layer of plastic, and wrapped my magnetic wand tip in plastic. Then I used the magnetized tip to find the loose nut (took a few tries) and dragged the nut to an opening where I could retrieve it. Then I reinstalled the nut on the mating stud.

No more rattles when I slam the hatch shut, thanks to you!