What services you need and what you don't

Hi footprintx,

Regarding the Toyota of Riverside special, note that this will probably not apply to your Prius for the following reasons:

1. Prius uses Toyota ATF WS fluid which is "special" compared to Dexron ATF.
2. Prius uses iridium spark plugs, not regular plugs.
3. The special does not include inverter coolant.

I have wondered why the 2G CA spark plug change interval is 150K miles while the rest of the country is at 120K miles. The spark plugs are the same model...

My guess is that the longer CA interval is due to regulatory issues rather than engineering differences. I plan to change the plugs at around 100K miles (my 2004 is currently at 57K).

The engine and inverter coolants are supposed to be replaced at 100K miles, so at this point you are past-due. Although the PCV valve and transaxle fluid are not on the schedule, both should also be replaced. The PCV valve only costs ~$6, but it is buried under the wiring harness that runs on top of the engine valve cover.

Regarding the brakes, it is simple enough to inspect both front and rear to see how much lining remains.

 

Re: What services you need and what you don't

There is a blow-by-blow for Prius maintenance and repair just published by the excellent firm of Haynes.
The ISBN is " ISBN 1 56392 680 6 " available at most rational parts houses and from Haynes on the web.

There is also a new Prius book from Bentley Publishers at The Motor Bookstore : [ Toyota Prius Hybrid Repair, Service Manual 2004-2008 - Bentley Publishers ISBN: 9780837615530 ]

 

Re: What services you need and what you don't

After much searching and reading I found "(j) Engine Oil Replacement Reminder Light (for vehicles sold in the U.S.A)" on pages 130-131 in my 2007 Owner's Manual. The directions are somewhat vague but the only missing direction is to keep one's feet off the brake pedal to establish "IG-ON." Otherwise, if you press the brake at all the system does not reset.

 

Re: What services you need and what you don't

Patrick

Perhaps the CA spec fuel burns cleaner? The fuel up here still has some MMT in it, though that level has really dropped over the past couple of years.

Especially in the 1980's, it was common to pull out spark plugs and find them coated with a tan/orange deposit, which was the MMT after the combustion process

One thing I have noticed with Husky/Mohawk fuel, it burns very cleanly. It's ethanol fuel, so a bit less fuel economy. However, due to the subsidies offered, it's very cost effective compared to fuel from other stations that have additives like MMT

One thing I noticed with my FJ Cruiser. The sticker on the fuel door tates to use premium, but a TSB from 2007 states that regular is ok too. I tried a few tanks of Shell V Power, from two different Shell stations, and noticed my FJ always had a strong rotten egg smell after I backed into the garage

That tells me a lot of sulfer in that "Top Tier" gas. I tried regular Shell fuel, and the rotten egg smell was worse. Maybe 1 mpg less with regular, in the FJ. I don't drive it much, a tank lasts at least a week if I'm driving it out to the hobby farm, the last tank lasted over a month due to all the business travel

So I switched to the Husky/Mohawk premium last fillup. No more rotten egg smell. My FJ uses regular NGK with fairly frequent change intervals, I'll see how the plugs have held up when I change them again this fall

jay

 

Re: What services you need and what you don't

Which oil is a high quality synthetic oil. I need to start taking me own oil in.

 

Re: What services you need and what you don't

If you have a Walmart close there may be some Valvoline or Quakerstate full synthetic oil in stock. Look for full synthetic and cheap; choose that combination. Mobil, Pennzoil, Shell and Texaco are all out of my range of acceptable; it's a hate the crooks thing.
You can do a web search for Amsoil. The only problem with Amsoil is the cost. It is premium quality. When the time comes for coolant replacement their's is the one to get. It's propyl based, safe for kids and dogs, and has a very strong protection additive mix.

 

Re: What services you need and what you don't

I use Mobil 1 0W-20 in the Prius year round. I have great used oil analysis reports up to 16,000 km

In the FJ, I run Mobil 1 0W-40. This oil meets tougher EU specs for Mercedes, BMW, and GM LL service. The 4.0 V6 in my FJ is quite a bit harder on oil, I was experiencing a bit of shearing and nitration buildup

 

Good info, but what is the best engine oil to use & or ,if different than manufacturer
Thank, jwazmt

 

Re: What services you need and what you don't

Synthetic oil of a viscosity suitable for the conditions in which you drive. Any 0W30 weight synthetic oil will work almost everywhere, 5W30 for hotter areas like the extreme southern tier of states and the Mohave desert region. Be sensible.

 

Great sticky thanks for the information!

 

Synthetic oil

I'm putting 3,000 miles a month on my Prius and would like to start spreading out my oil changes. How many miles can I go between changes if I use synthetic oil? I read here on Prius chat that some go up to 10,000 - 12,000 miles, yet the dealer insists that I change the oil every 5,000 miles and talks me out of the synthetic. I'd like to hear from others...thanks

 

There are lots and lots and lots of posts on the subject of oil changes, what oil to use, and what intervals. I suggest you search for them because there's some potentially useful info/opinion in those threads and it would be hard to replicate them succinctly here.

 

Re: Synthetic oil

Change interval for any oil depends on the stress imposed between changes.

If you live in SOCAL and drive your three thousand miles on high speed roads (ha) the interval will be longer than if you live in Minnesota and do all stop and go driving at under ten miles per leg.

That said, a high quality synthetic will last at least 10K miles under the worst conditions. Let me guarantee you, running in a Prius is far from the worst conditions.

As to your anal-retentive dealer, he's looking for more frequent oil change business. You may pretty much ignore him for anything factual about oil changes.

If your engine breaks before the warranty runs out, Toyota will deal with that; they are the guys paying the bills, not the dealer.

Does anyone out there have long-oil-change-interval broken-engine experience?

 

Re: What services you need and what you don't

Thanks for your response. Does the oil filter make a difference? I've read here that while the synthetic oil will last 10,000 miles, the oil filters loose their effectiveness before that. Any thoughts on this?

 

Note that 7,500 mile oil change intervals (using mineral oil, not synthetic oil) were deemed acceptable by Toyota as recently as 2003. Then in 2004 5,000 mile oil change intervals were implemented along with the MAINT REQD light. I assume that this was due to the litigation settlement where Toyota extended engine warranty coverage to repair oil sludge damage as long as the owner could demonstrate that oil changes had been performed at "reasonable" intervals.

Regarding oil filters, I use the Toyota-brand filters since they seem to work well and are relatively inexpensive ($3.29 each when you buy a case of 10).
Champion ToyotaWorld

 

One little note you'll probably find in searches on oil changes too: if you're worried about warranty issues but want to do extended intervals, get a used oil analysis done when the 5k interval comes up. If the UOA shows that your oil is in good shape then you can keep going without worry of damage, and with evidence of no harm being done to your engine.

 

Galaxee knows better than me, so don't listen to me. That's what seems to come up again and again in threads talking about extended intervals, but I do 5k oil change intervals and have not done a UOA myself.

 

Re: What services you need and what you don't

Doesn't consistency of service count? If regular oil changes are made using synthetic oil the proof is there that you are regularly servicing your car. It seems I've heard that mantra more than once here.
With an extended warranty you have rights, one of which is arbitration if the dealer decides to get antsy or pedantic. The first arbitrator is Toyota Customer Service.
The resistance of synthetic oil to heat and pressure breakdown far in excess of rock oil is well documented and recognized.
The decision of how to take advantage of those benefits of synthetic oil is yours. Me, I just change oil and filter every 10K miles.
Just in case, thinking filters stop working before 10K miles indicates no change in data input beyond the cotton lint filters of the 1930s. Modern filters include a bypass valve to cover the event of a plugged filter; they do NOT disintegrate under pressure.
Needless to say, operating in a dust storm shortens filter life, but then this discussion doesn't turn on such esoterica.
In any event, decisions about what you do to improve your vehicle's survival is yours to make.

 

I still find it interesting that the sludge was primarily a North American issue. The same motor used in EU nations didn't appear to have sludge issues. Through work, I know folks in Switzerland, the UK, France, Germany, Sweden, Norway, etc, and they also haven't heard of sludge issues

Keep in mind that for almost every Toyota sold in Europe, incuding the Prius, the normal oil change interval is 12 months or 10,000 miles. Europeans also do short trips, and can expect temp extremes similar to most parts of the US, though perhaps not as bad as Canada. I'm guessing Kiruna Sweden has a lot in common with Thompson, Manitoba, in regards to climate

There is a huge difference in oil quality when one compares min-spec ACEA European oils, to min-spec API/ILSAC oils sold here. A virgin oil analysis of my bulk dealership oil proved that! Quite frankly, if I had to run bulk dealership oil in my climate, I'd change the oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles

A couple of months ago I "borrowed" that pricey fiber optic inspection scope from work, and snooped around the top of the cylinder head of my Prius. It appeared absolutely spotless. This is with 12 month, or 16,000 km oil changes, running Mobil 1 0W-20 and the dealership filter

This last oil change, I also cut the filter open using a special oil filter tool. The filter had no evidence of metal, sludge, or plugging