Is tire rotation really necessary on Prius?

To get back to the question of tire rotation - since most of the Prius braking is done by the front wheels only (using the regen braking), does that eliminate the need to put the better tires on the rear for avoiding the rear-end losing traction while braking? Or is it still a concern because in a panic stop the friction brakes are used, and then the condition of the rear tires is important?

It just seems backwards to me to put the better tires on the rear wheels of a front-wheel-drive car that mostly uses the front wheels for braking also.

 

The reason that it is advised to put the better tires on the rear wheels is that most drivers can deal with an understeer situation better than an oversteer situation. Consider when you are taking a corner at speed - if the rear tires lose traction first, then your car will spin out. If the front tires lose traction first, then the car will not take the corner but as you brake, weight shifts to the front and the front tires may regain traction.

 

Got my weapons, er tools from Sears. Glad you gave me the model number! I went with a 6" extension as they did not have a 4"; guy at store said he would use the 6 rather than the 3''.

 

6" is good, the idea is just to have the wrench positioned so that you won't bonk into the body of the car with the handle as you are removing the lug nuts.

I had occasion to visit the local Lowe's today (because I wanted to buy a set of very small metric deep sockets for a 1/4" ratchet.) Their Kobalt brand 1/2" click torque wrench is priced at $95, so I think the Craftsman wrench is a better buy.

Since all this started because you plan to DIY tire rotation, I am interested to know how you plan to raise the front and rear wheels of one side of the car at the same time, which would make it easy to rotate the tires.

 

No! They don't heal. But since they don't wear evenly, rotating them helps keep the tread wear even, thus providing for safer handling.

 

No! They don't rest, but since they don't wear evenly, rotating them lets them wear more evenly, thus providing for much better and safer handling.

 

I read somebody say you can use a piece of wood (?) running from front to back to jack up driver or passenger side and swap front to back.

Somebody else mentioned putting the front end on jack stands and raising the back with hydraulic jack, then swapping all four, front to back of course.

 

Hi Michael,

Perhaps this may have been me, since this is what I do with my 2004. However the more fastidious Prius owners may be upset at the idea of this since the car is being supported at its middle with the weight distributed over a few feet; not at the approved jack points.

 

C'mon folks, steel jacks stands are very inexpensive. There is no reason to take a chance that a car can drop onto its discs, drums, or your squishable body.

 

To lift all 4 wheels at the same time I:

Lift the front of the car using the center jack point under the front crossmember. I use a hydraulic floor jack. There is a drawing to show this location in this thread.

Place jack stands at the forward two locations under the front doors. The locations are also shown in the drawing in the other thread. I made rubber blocks to protect the flanges from damage. Let the car down until supported by the jack stands.

I llft the rear of the car with the floor jack using the center jack point just behind the rear axle. I feel that a second set of jack stands under the rear door locations is safest, however if you are not going under the car, it is okay just to support with the jack.

Don't ever get under any car when it is only supported by a jack. Always use jackstands.

 

Thanks for the thread pointer.

I just bought myself a Michelin 2.5 ton hydraulic jack for $100 and Michelin 3.5 ton jackstands for $30 so I could finally change the wife's car to summer tires. Haven't jacked the Prius yet; perhaps first tire rotation. I got Rhino-Ramp 8000s for $35 for the oil change.

 

I'm glad the 6" isn't too long.

I'm planning for the future in tire rotation. My car is still a baby, barely over 100 miles. I can't find it, but somewhere someone mentioned jacks and jack stands from Walmart; not sure what the correct term is. I want to make certain before I buy any. Would appreciate your input!

Just found it in my notes: 2- 3 ton jack stand; 2- 3 ton hydraulic jack; $20 each. Do you agree?

I wanted the tools I got before I install the mud flaps; I'm sure it will make it easier!

Also, yet to decide to buy ramps for oil changes or let Toyota do it. They are doing the first one free.

I'm glad our Lowes didn't carry the torque wrench!

 

If you are planning to buy a couple of jack stands and a hydraulic floor jack, then you don't also need ramps for the oil change (unless you really want them.) When shopping for ramps, you need to get ones that have a gentle slope that will fit under the front bumper cover.

Regarding the jack stands, ideally you would get jack stands that have a notch in the top, so that the ridge in the Prius body will mate nicely with the notch. Take a look under your car at the jacking points on both sides of the vehicle, to see the ridge that I am talking about.

Regarding the floor jack, you will need to place a piece of scrap 2x4 lumber (perhaps 1 foot long or so) on the saddle to help protect the underside of the Prius from contact with the metal saddle and to distribute the load over a wider area.

When doing the oil change, you will need a cap oil filter wrench; bring a new oil filter with you when shopping for the cap wrench to get the right size. That cap wrench is likely intended for a 3/8" ratchet wrench. Since you now own a 1/2" wrench, you can buy an adapter that has 1/2" female going to 3/8" male. You will also need the correct metric socket for the oil drain plug; I forget the size - maybe 12 or 14 mm. It would probably be easiest for you to buy an assortment of metric sockets intended for a 3/8" ratchet, along with the 1/2" - 3/8" adapter.

You may also want to buy a 1/2" or 3/8" ratchet wrench so that you use the torque wrench only when making the final tightening (or initial loosening) adjustments... The ratchet wrench has a shorter handle so it is more convenient to use in a tight area. If you buy a 3/8" wrench, you may be able to find a set that has the wrench plus an assortment of metric sockets.

So you can see that buying the torque wrench was just the start, and there are many more tools that you can reasonably acquire to perform simple jobs. This is why some men visit Sears, Lowes, Home Depot etc., and are wandering around the tool area for hours...

 

Told you it was a sickness. :madgrin:

 

Thanks dogfriend I have been known to go up the street with my jack stands when I see people working on their car with a pile of wooden blocks or bricks under the car. I don't care if they don't return them as much as I would hate someone in my street to die under a collapsed car.

This goes for changing a flat tyre too. Get the spare out first before you jack the wheel up, place the spare under the side of the car you are lifting near the flat tyre then loosen the nuts on the wheel before jacking. Only after you have the wheel off take the spare out from under the car then put the flat tyre under the side of the car before the spare wheel is bolted on then remove the flat wheel from under the car before you lower the jack. Once the spare wheel is on the ground check it is tight then and only then should you put the flat tyre in the back of the car. If the car falls off the jack the wheel under it will stop it falling far and allow room to get the jack back in. Here endeth the lecture.

Another tip for jacking the car for tyre rotation is to drive onto a block of wood maybe 2 inches high under 1 front wheel to give you an inch or so more space to get the hydraulic trolley jack under the front jack point and still be able to pump the handle.

 

Thanks! Really appreciate all this info!!!

I'm glad I don't need the ramps, but patsparks good suggestion to drive up on a board, hum, maybe?

patsparks, great info, too!

Scrap wood I have also have a collection of tools, some good, some cheap.

I'm saving all this info!

I have 2 oil filter wrenches, but my luck, I'll need a different size.

I looked at the notches under the Prius. Sometimes it is not clear where the jack goes.

Thanks again for all the super info!!! I really appreciate your time and great info!!!!!

dogfriend, you are right! You guys are inspiring and motivating!

 

It takes 30 mins tops!
Why pay someone for something you can do yourself for free?

 

Discount tire has never charged for rotations, not sure which one you go to but id have a chit chat with the store manager. Even if you dont buy the tires from them they do not charge for flat repairs or rotos. I know i work there, if you need more info let me know.

 

Also youre supposed to rotate the tires because they wear down more even and if theres a manufacturerer issue then you can claim a warranty through them...

 

More even = less safe. The better tires should always be at the rear.

If the warranty requires rotation then you must decide which is more important.