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Bypass filter install

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by phumpher, Sep 1, 2006.

  1. FL_Prius_Driver

    FL_Prius_Driver Senior Member

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    Hopefully you are not talking about API grade oil.
     
  2. NoMoShocks

    NoMoShocks Electrical Engineer

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    Somethimes I get too bananas over a new idea. First I thought about the oil bypass system for my Prius, and next thing you know, I was ready to put one on my son's Corolla, and before you know it, I was thinking all may cars could really use it. Then I mentioned the idea to some friends at work and they said "Sound like a solution for a non problem" They began to bring me back to Earth, and the comments here have brought me down the rest of the way, so thank you. I will just change my oil regularly.
     
  3. Raider

    Raider New Member

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    I just reached 5k and had the regular scheduled maintance done on my 9mo old touring. I thought it was a good time to install the Amsoil BMK-13 on one of our Prius'.

    I found a few on eBay for less than the retail price. One claimed to have been used for a few months, another used slightly more than one year. However, I wasn't satisfied with the hardware and plumbing provided by Amsoil in the BMK-13 kit.
    1. The steel fittings/brackets were showing signs of corrosion on the fittings and where the bracket sits on the billet aluminum oil filter mount.
    2. Steel fittings provided require several additional fittings, not included in the original kit, to form 45 degree or 90 degree bends, thereby increasing the amount of space required to route hose assembly
    3. Amsoil cloth braided hose over rubber hose is only 1/2" I.D.
    4. Typical cast aluminum remote oil adapters tend to crack or leak over time. And for some reason, the previous BMK-13 owner decided to use locktite on the nipple adapter so I could not remove it to install the 3/4x16 adapter. Or the mixture of steel adapter installed into an aluminum housing corroded and can no longer be removed.
    5. The plumbing/mounting hardware are extra/spare parts from my race car. (I have enough parts/kit for another install but haven't decided when or if necessary. I guess I'll have to see what the oil looks like after some miles.)
    6. Removing any or all particles or contaminents from the oil should avoid any possible sludge formation. (I would want to have any truckloads of oil dumped on my car...)

    Here is a brief list of the parts I used on the Prius
    1 Amsoil BMK-13 (used)
    1 Amsoil EaBP90 Bypass Filter
    1 Toyota 90915-YZZF2 Oil Filter
    1 Canton Remote Oil Adapter #22-545
    Aeroquip FBN1200 Socketless Hose
    (12AN lightweight alternative to s.s. braided hose)
    2 Aeroquip FCM1515 (12AN straight connector)
    1 Aeroquip FCM1535 (12AN 90 degree elbow)
    1 Aeroquip FCM1565 (12AN 180 degree elbow)
    1 Aeroquip FBM2015 (12AN straight adapter)
    1 Aeroquip FBM2010 (12AN 90 degree elbow adapter)
    2 Aeroquip FBM2166 (12AN-8AN AN Male Reducer Union)
    2 Aeroquip FBM3725 (8AN Port Plugs)
    Stainless Steel safety wire

    Mounting hardware;
    1"x1/8" Aluminum bar stock
    2 1/4"x20 - 1.5" teflon coated bolts
    1 1/4"x20 - 1" teflon coated bolts
    3 1/4"x20 nylon locking nuts
    4 1/4" stainless steel washers
    2 1/4" aluminum washers

    Notes;
    1. These pictures are from the mock up. Actual return line was lengthened since the bypass filter was interfering with the hose fitting on the remote oil adapter.
    2. I've added a section of the socketless hose to cover the existing rubber hoses on the transmission that is positioned near the sharp corner of the remote oil filter mount.
    3. The only modification was to one of the wiring harness brackets on the transmission. I reversed the bracket from facing downward, to facing upward so I would have more room to fit the 180 degree elbow and move the wiring harness away from that metal tab from wearing into the same harness. (I've seen other users state they reverse the cover plate so the tab will not interfere with the wiring harness.)
    4. This modification has changed oil capacity +1.5 quarts. I can fit 1 quart in the bypass filter and assume the rest is based on the hose volume. Oil level now measures 1/8" from the top measurement on the oil dip stick.

    (I think this is everything I can remember.)
     

    Attached Files:

    Dino33ca and don_chuwish like this.
  4. drees

    drees Senior Member

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    Nice looking setup, Raider. What kind of OCIs are you planning on running?
     
  5. problemchild

    problemchild New Member

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    Filtration is half the equation, additives are the other. All oils have specific additive packages based on the type of engine that will use them. A gas engine oil has different additives then a diesel engine oil as an example.

    There are additives to reduce the build up of acids etc. when water forms in the oil from frequent stops and starts (like the prius ice engine). The additives get used up and no amount filtering can put them back.

    So unless you change the oil you are harming the engine.
     
  6. Speedwing

    Speedwing Junior Member

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    The idea of good filtration is always a sound idea. It can only help.

    On a lighter note ..... I've been re-using my used drained auto full synthetic oil (after running through some coffee filters) in my lawn mower ever since synthetic Mobil 1 became a household word. Now that's re-cycling. The John Deere still purrs like the day I bought it.:amen: That mower gets more dusty conditions than the car ever sees!!
     
  7. ZC1

    ZC1 Junior Prius Owner

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    Raider,

    I'm quite surprised there was enough room to add this modification, evidently I haven't looked under the Prius much.

    I can see this mod for my race car for sure, but with frequent oil changes and hardly any use on the Prius engine, it seems like overkill.

    Is there any negative effects from using a strong filter magnet instead?

    ZC1
     
  8. Raider

    Raider New Member

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    Seeing that there are so few options available for the Prius, (I have the fully loaded Touring with leather seats), I thought I'd try this one out to see if there is any benefits. There's really not that much you can do to a 1.5 litre engine, or room to do so.

    Or as darelldd stated previously "modifications for the sake of modifying"

    First I'll see if the Toyota brand 5-30w oil really does look like new since after the dealer changed the oil, it looked redish before install. Then I may try full synthetics since I already use Red Line in my other car.

    I'm using the stock filter for now since it would appear most of the particles would eventually get picked up in the bypass filter.
     
  9. racerbob

    racerbob Member

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    Nice work Raider. I would like to include a dry sump in mine. I don't think you have enough plumbing. :rolleyes: That is great hose. The lightweight stuff doesn't chew through anything in its path like the stainless braid does. Honestly, don't you think a drysump would be just the mod for another 3 MPG while ICE is running. We could spin it up with a little motor before ICE cranks then let it be belt driven through an electric clutch. More noises on boot up! I've wrenched Porsche race cars for a few decades so dry sumps are just "standard equipment" to me. Congratulation on a well engineered job. Where is your return line? Did you remove the pan or do it like Amsoil says with a "punched" hole and a self tapper?
     
  10. racerbob

    racerbob Member

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    Jon, I hope you disabled that awful front suspension oiling pedal/thingy that pumps engine oil on the front suspension. I (partially) restored a 1967 +4 and I still remember cleaning all that crud from the "sliding pillar" front suspension. Brits have strange ways of engineering parts. :D We never did finish the car, but I found out during that process that I wasn't a woodworker. They are indeed fun vehicles and I still want to drive a +8.
     
  11. ZC1

    ZC1 Junior Prius Owner

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    It's obvious to me that you have racing car in your background.
    This oil mod is a standard one on race cars where we pipe the filter onto the inner fender well.
    The use of Red Line is also telling.

    If you used Torco fuel, then bingo.

    ZC1
     
  12. Raider

    Raider New Member

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    There's not much room for a dry sump system but we could possible use a crank scrapper and lighter internals.

    What the Prius needs is a rear mounted turbo kit but again, there's not much room to install an intercooler. All that heat in the front would create a melted plastic nightmare.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. dwreed3rd

    dwreed3rd New Member

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    Which kit did you use?
     
  14. etyler88

    etyler88 etyler88

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    If you do the bypass make sure you do oil analysis. I think the loss of the oil additives is important too. For what it is worth. I used an oil bypass filter on a 84 Olds Ciera 4 banger. It was the Amsoil set up. I did not do any UOA's. The car died of oil blowby before the one year or 25,000 mile period. I changed the regular filter in the one year period per instructions. So I'll never go that route again. Maybe if you drive a truck it is worth it or have easy access to UOA's. It wasn't going to save that much money anyway. Car was running great when I put it on with about 115000 miles and died about 7 months and 12000 miles later.
     
  15. dwreed3rd

    dwreed3rd New Member

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    I'm very interested! Which kit did you use?

    Tanks, Dave
     
  16. phumpher

    phumpher um...oh...uh...wa...er

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    Looks nice!

    I'm curious about how you mounted the system.
    Where did you attach the filter mount? Attached it to what?
    Aluminum bar stock?
    Did you build some kind of mounting adapter or mounting plate?

    I always find it amazing how we can have different experiences using the same equipment.
    I have a bypass setup on all of our vehicles and I don't notice any significant ( i.e. different than anywhere else on the vehicle) signs of corrosion on the fittings or the brackets on any of them.
    I have used the Amsoil cloth braided hose in every vehicle and have not had any issues.
    On our four vehicles that we presently own and the dozen or so installs on previous vehicles I have used the cast aluminum remote oil adapters and have not had any crack or leak.


     
  17. Raider

    Raider New Member

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    After installing bypass filter, I haven't changes the bypass filter until now, after two oil changes. I decided to open the filter using a oil filter cutter.

    I would imagine my oil filter may look like the other oil filters pictured if I had not installed the bypass filter...

    Does anyone else have pictures of their oil filters cut open???

    #478 shows the last four oil filters from various cars (l-r)
    (1) Bypass filter from Prius after 10k
    (2) Motocraft oil filter from Ford Mustang (66k miles) after 3k
    (3) Nissan oil filter from Nissan Pathfinder (75k miles) after 3k
    (4) Toyota oil filter from Prius after 5k
    Picture 478.jpg

    #479
    Nissan vs Toyota
    Picture 479.jpg

    #480
    Bypass vs Ford
    Picture 480.jpg

    #481
    Bypass (closeup)
    Picture 481.jpg

    #482
    Motocraft (closeup)
    Picture 482.jpg

    #483
    Nissan (closeup)
    Picture 483.jpg

    #485
    Toyota (closeup)
    Picture 485.jpg

    Oil Filter Cutter
    Oil Filter Cutter !BYbj8F!B2k~$(KGrHgoH-D0EjlLlyn79BKhewkK5ig~~_12.jpg

    Oil Filter Cutter (Closeup)
    Oil Filter Cutter !BYbj9rQ!Wk~$(KGrHgoH-CoEjlLluzl+BKhewvmEig~~_12.jpg
     
  18. owenxguo

    owenxguo New Member

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    any oil pressure issue???