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Help with debadging

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by griffin911, Jun 17, 2007.

  1. kurtjamesma

    kurtjamesma Junior Member

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    Just thought about this earlier today. Because the holes create a problem, a possible solution would be to have those badges paint-matched to the car color.

    Might be easier to buy new badges and have those paint-matched, remove the old ones, put on the new paint-matched ones.

    I'm probably going to do this with my 08 Touring when I pick it up this Tuesday.
     
  2. Kremtok

    Kremtok Smug Alert!

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    Try replacing the Hybrid badge with this one:

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Ct. Ken V

    Ct. Ken V Active Member

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    all,

    I'm going to provide you wth pics of the side marker light I was speak'g of in my post #20 (one pg back). The link should take you to pg 12 of the "Let's See Some Pics" topic in the "Newbies" category. Scroll down to post #113 by madsock & click on the 1st, 3rd, & 4th thumbnails [do the 4th one first (the close-up of the light & Hybrid badge), & then go to the 1st & 3rd for a broader view of the light's location on the side of the car]. I think the holes behind the badges are really for the bulb socket/wiring for the non-USA models that have these lights. O.K. now, here comes the link. http://priuschat.com/forums/newbie-forum/42188-newbies-lets-see-some-pics-12.html#post592834

    Ken (in Bolton,Ct)
     
    robertmaria likes this.
  4. tentmaker

    tentmaker Junior Member

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    Removed the all the rear badges and reattached the PRIUS on the center lower rear window for a nice look.
     
  5. rep308

    rep308 Junior Member

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    How many holes in side fender '08 model

    I know there is at least one hole, can someone confirm how many holes are in the fender of an '08 Prius

    Ralph
     
  6. Noodle

    Noodle New Member

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    Perhaps it would be best for all the readers of this thread to summarize which badges are safe to remove on each year's model (i.e. no holes underneath). I'll start with what I know so far from mine...

    2008 Standard
    Toyota (Rear) - Clean
    Prius (Rear) - Clean
    Synergy Drive (Rear) - Clean
    Emblem (Rear) - ???
    Hybrid (Right fender) - At least one hole (anyone know how many?)
    Hybrid (Left fender) - At least one hole (anyone know how many?)
    Emblem (Front) - ???

    I'd personally like to know if the emblem on the back of an '08 is safe to remove as I'd really like to do so...anyone know??
     
  7. Doc Willie

    Doc Willie Shuttlecraft Commander

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    Emblems on the front and back have two holes each.
     
  8. Noodle

    Noodle New Member

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    Thanks! Sounds like I better leave those on...
     
  9. darelldd

    darelldd Prius is our Gas Guzzler

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    I'm all but positive that the holes are there for exactly that - in other markets.

    As for what has holes where -

    As far as I know: Up to 2006, there were no noles under anything but the front and rear T emblems. In 2007+ holes under the side hybrid emblems were added. Nothing else changed.
     
  10. Doc Willie

    Doc Willie Shuttlecraft Commander

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    In the Federation market these are used to mount photon torpedo launchers.

    Similar stuff was seen long, long, ago in galaxy far, far away Road Squadron - Ship Reference
     
  11. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    Attached Files:

  12. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    Well, this morning I just pulled the front-of-hood "T" logo
    off mine, following krousdb's advice of "just yank", although
    I did so slowly by prying carefully up a little with a non-marring
    tool [screwdriver with tape over it] and letting it sit there
    under that strain for several minutes while the sticky started
    to slowly separate. Helped it separate along by punching
    another screwdriver through the "web" of adhesive as it started
    to come up, and eventually the thing could just be pulled off
    the car.
    .
    So now I've got a grayish "T" oval of sticky gunk on the hood,
    and will try to remove same without making the same kind of mess
    I made of the rear one [but managed to recover semi-gracefully].
    .
    Basically, whatever the right solvent is will be determined on a
    noncritical out-of-the-way area in the paint, I expect coupled with
    a good bit of finger-rubbing to roll the stuff off. Then comes
    the problem of filling the holes [Dan said clear RTV was fine] and
    touching up. But I'm thinking maybe of painting some *other* kind
    of logo over the area to help visually hide the bulge that hints
    that something was supposed to go there. [Suddenly, the Mack
    bulldog comes to mind...]
    .
    Maybe a frontal pic and a little photochopping work to play with
    concepts is in order...
    .
    _H*
     
  13. krousdb

    krousdb NX-74205

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    Finger rubbing worked fine for me. No solvent required.
     
  14. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    Temps in our beloved Ballamer reached 75 deg in mid afternoon. I have
    been waiting for a month for temps to get above 60 deg to debadge the rear
    hatch.

    By way of prep, I read debadging threads on at least four different marque
    forums. The recommended process ranged from a combination of heat guns
    and various petrochemicals to just grabbing the badge with your fingernails
    and pulling. I figured there was a simple way somewhere in the middle of
    the range.

    I parked the car with the rear hatch facing south, into the noonday sun. Then
    I made a simple tool equivalent to a popsicle stick tapered for about 1/2
    inch to a near chisel point.

    A half an hour later, the hatch was hot to the touch. I grabbed one end of a
    badge with my fingernails and pulled firmly outward. The adhesive stretched
    slightly, maybe 1/8 inch.. With the chisel end of the tool I pushed gently
    against the stretched adhesive close to where it was stuck to the car. The
    adhesive let go for about 1/16 - 1/8 inch on the car side but remained stuck
    to the badge. As the adhesive detached from the car, I kept up continuous
    outward pressure and repeatedly pushed the adhesive off the car. At no time
    did the tool touch the paint, and the adhesive came off cleanly. No pain and
    no strain.

    I had the three rear hatch badges off in 10 minutes. It was so easy as to
    approach being trivial. You'd have to be really ham-handed to screw it up.
    Just remember to get the badge and hatch quite warm.

    In post #32, Hobbit was taking off the Toyota oval-T badges which are
    secured with stickum and pins with retainers. Thats a whole different ball
    game not to be confused with badges secured solely with tape as above.
     
  15. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    Cool. My hood wasn't quite as warm yesterday, but I did manage
    to get all the stickum cleanly off. A little 95% isopropyl did
    help soften the stuff and let it "ball up" a little better.
    Nothing any stronger would truly leave the paint alone.
    .
    _H*
     
  16. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    Hobbit,

    Are you dead set against all badging on the hood/hatch, or just the Toyota
    oval-T? If not totally against them, these Toyota of Japan badges might be
    plug-n-play as it seems to me that all Toyota models have the same size
    oval-T on hood and hatch/trunk.

    This one's from a Vitz:
    http://priuschat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8733&stc=1&d=1208716120

    And this from a Harrier:
    http://priuschat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8734&stc=1&d=1208716120

    They are from:

    eBay Seller: jdmpit: Parts Accessories, Action Figures items on eBay Motors

    Oops, sorta' off topic topic, I know. But it could be the next topic!
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    As to dealing with the holes under the fender HybridSD badge, this Dodge
    Pacifica Touring badge might fill the bill:

    Auto Parts People (do not know why but there is no drawing of this badge,
    but its got a part number and price, $18 for that little-bitty thing!)

    I've seen, touched it in real life. It's about 1/2 inch by 3 inches; "Touring"
    painted on a chrome rectangle with radiused corners and edges. Don't know
    if it's plastic or metal.

    For a touring model, use as is with a couple of coats of high quality clear
    coat.

    For non-touring, first a little work with paint remover -- no abrasives, please
    -- then the clear coat. And what do you say it is if asked. Why make up
    some outlandish lie of course! Its the ultra long wave lunar phase sensor, or
    the differential gravitometer, or better yet they're the contacts for
    PHEV recharging. Hehehe.
     
  18. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    Okay, I need some aesthetic feedback here. Maybe it's that I
    keep hearing the rods going by on the highway a half-mile away
    [gas prices, schmas prices...] or that I just spotted a lot of
    sensible "line matches" when staring at the car's nose.
    .
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    .
    Note that I haven't actually *done* this to my car yet, it's just
    a photochop artist's conception. But somehow it brings to mind
    those raised-center mustang or whatever hoods, y'know, the one
    you squeeze the massive blower underneath. Or something. I'm
    kinda likin' this, and I'm not even sure it would hide the fact
    that there's a bump where the logo was...
    .
    Comments? Counter-proposals? This feels particularly weird
    because I usually don't sit around art-fagging about cars.
    Then again, if there wasn't something going on here I wouldn't
    have pulled the logo off in the first place.
    .
    _H*
     
  19. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    Hobbit,

    It has a strong resemblance to the raised certer section on the Gen1. Hmm,
    retro. The fumes from the rodders must really strong, nitro maybe? Ethanol?

    (Does this make me an aht-fag?)
     
  20. Neicy

    Neicy Member

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    I like it. It picks up on the black around the windows I think.