TB Hot water bypass

Ed, sounds simple enough to bypass the throttle body in spring and reconnect in fall if you live somewhere like... Wisconsin.

Jerry

 

Like I said, my negative response is based on actually having done this mods on numerous cars and not seeing any benefit whatsoever. Your SOT (seat of the pants) guage are typically pretty well useless in an instance such as this.

I'm not saying you shouldn't post the info for it may make a difference on these cars and in certain climates but since my experiences have been different I will post the "negative" response to the idea to keep things in perspective.

 

As you know, it can get pretty toasty up here in the summer. Not like Florida, Nevada, etc toasty (toasted??) but 80's and 90's are quite common.

That is why I figured a thermostat based automatic system would be best. It wouldn't bypass in the winter and you wouldn't have to remember to disconnect/reconnect seasonally Plus, it would provide the most efficiency if the computers can be programmed to figure out exactly what the prime temp is to bypass.

 

OK!
Your intake temp was same as the outside temp.
Your water temp was around 185-190.
Then, please let us know your intake temp without your mod.
We can't agree "Thats a 120 degree difference" unless we hear your intake temp without your mod.

Also, how much power or mileage number did you get from your mod?
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]We would like to see a dynamometer[/FONT] test numbers.

Does anybody agree?

Ken@Japan

 

Actually I've done the mod on stock LS1 equipped F-bodies and 5.3L trucks to a heads/cam/nitrous'd LS1 (11.12@123 ) in the 1/4mile) and a 5.3L turbocharged truck (550rwhp then 717rwhp). My buddy's dyno (DynaPack) can replicate real world driving conditions fairly closely and under any load he chooses to put on the car and at any RPM and throttle position (IE not just max HP/TQ at full throttle. Most dynos use a large fan to simulate wind flow through the engine bay. The point is, I'm deifnately not a noob when it comes to making HP. I've been drag racing Mustangs and LSx-based engines since the early 90s.

My first race engine used this mod back in 1996. I could never tell a difference but it kept me from leaking coolant everytime I removed the TB so I kept the mod. Notice the two tubes on either side of the TB have no coolant lines on them?

All I'm asking is for you to provide the members of Priuschat some kind of quantifiable evidence to back up your claim before they risk a fuel milage decrease or altering emissions.

 

I have done this mod on a number of LSx based corvettes including my own and it is worthwhile and costs next to nothing to do.

As the OP has pointed out correctly, the purpose of running the heated coolant through the TB was to decrease any chances of the throttle sticking during severe cold weather which btw is NEVER a chance here in South Florida!!

Anytime that you can lower your intake ambient temps (IAT) this is a good thing as it will most often result in slightly higher hp/tq and reduced chance of detonation occurring.

IMO this is a great mod for near little cost and effort....

Great post Edthefox5!!

 

FWIW. I checked today (mod not done) and when the WT was at 184°, the IAT was 80°. This at an outdoor temp of about 70°.

Upper grill blocked. Measured with SG2.

 

Edthefox5,

I tried a couple tricks with the airbox like you did and could not produce and quantifiable results either. I was at the track and tried removing the airbox lid, then just the airfilter, then the tubing etc. and nothing seemed to make much of a difference in ET or MPH. The only big effect on my ET/,PH was how hot the inverter may have been getting with back to back runs in 100deg temps. My times were all over the place! Haha


If you end up collecting more data please post it up.

 

This is an interesting attempt.
Following guy is trying to do the other way around, trying to heat intake manifold for increasing efficiency.
Yahoo! Groups

However, he also doesn't show us the numeric results.

Ken@Japan

 

f8l when the inverter temp goes up like reallly up it makes the pull more.

my inverter water pump burnt out, and i was running around with a overheating inverter ( no warning lights until it hit like 122 F ) but the power was amazing

 

Interesting. I was told it may of been the cause for my times going downhill so bad. Next thing ya know people will be installing nitrous bottle warmers on their inverters for mo powa! haha

 

Are you kidding me? Cars back in '60's had warm air directed to the carburetor to prevent icing. -The air cooled VW's had it since '50's.- Not only for the carb but for the intake manifold as well.
Yes, the colder the ambient temperature the more susceptible the throttle body would be to icing. But this is a closed system due to the ducting to the air cleaner. The air is warmed (maybe not heated) while passing through this duct work due to the engines heat. Some of this ducting may contain vent hose's directly from the engine, adding even more warmth.
In short if you want cooler air, open up the air cleaner system, remove any sound baffles, diverters, until air goes directly into the filter.
Most air filters are very restrictive, and get more so as they get dirty. Aftermarket cone type filters work much better, and better still with 'piping' directly to the throttle body.
Forget by-passing the cooling! It's there for a very good reason. Any cooling, any at all retards heat transfer to the "butterfly", I wouldn't worry so much about it freezing as I would it seizing!

 

Good idea. Such a valve is found on the Lotus Elise.

 

sorry to bump, but this modification proves to be very important especially since i moved to south florida, since summer hit us here im seeing my IAT reach 120-130 degrees almost 150 sometimes, im going to attempt this modification tommorow and record results here

 

Since this mod made an appearance in another thread, how about a bump for some pictures?

 

This is a "free" no cost mod.
So why not if one doesn't not live in a cold weather area.

Yes, cooling fuel is a worth while.
Yes, cooler fuel may reduce detonation.
Yes, detonation alters "timing"
Yes, further a bottom breather or cold air intake in conjunction with the TB bypass would be an ultimate set up, yet not as much a "free" mod.

No, horsepower increase...on a 100 hp engine, would never be noticed.
True, no 1/4 mile elapsed time or speed.
Unfortunately, no empirical MPG increase.

Again as a hobby why not do a TB bypass?
Even use colored hose clamps for the "wow" factor.

So that's my two cent comment.