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Coolant Temp Warning Question

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by miscrms, Jan 24, 2008.

  1. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Ok, I'm hoping someone can help me understand the cooling system a little better. I have an intermittent coolant temp warning coming on that I definitely need to get sorted before it starts warming up. Here are a few facts/thoughts:

    1) Grill top is ~90% blocked, temps have been in the 40s-60s, both times this has happened its been in the 50s. Both times were cruising light duty highway ~60mph no real hills to speak of. Nothing out of the ordinary in terms of route or trip length.

    2) When warning comes on its very uncertain about itself. Sometimes clears before it even gets around to telling me what the error is. Never stayed on for more than a minute or two. Definitely clustered though. On one occasion I got maybe 10 occurances in ~5 min. On the second, it only happened maybe twice, several minutes apart, then quickly went away.

    3) No visible/audible symptoms of actual overheating. Put heat on Max Hot full blast, air was not hot. Stopped and opened hood, no hissing, no extreme heat radiation from engine compartment. No pinging.

    4) I've never really taken note, but as I think back it seems to me that every time I have looked at coolant reservoir its appeared empty. Even after taking it in for service. Since it is an odd shape/size and had no sort of "full" marking I could find, I assumed this to be normal but it did seem odd. Owners manual seems to indicate it should be "about half full", is that right/common?

    5) I noticed a while ago that a black hose seemed to look somewhat out of place lying on top of the coolant tank. Didn't see any obvious place for it to plug in, assumed it was a breather or something. On closer inspection, I now realize its supposed to plug into the cap on the coolant tank, but the nipple has broke off. I'll have to see about getting the cap replaced, but the tank doesn't look like a traditional sealed expansion tank so I'm not sure that's related. Either way, I'll have to see about getting a replacement cap.

    6) Inverter Coolant tank is full.

    7) I have only a very generic/cheap OBDII reader, have not tried scanning yet. Is it likely to say anything more informative than "coolant temp high" if that?

    8) Both times this happened were within a week after most recent dealer routine service.

    Thanks very much for your thoughts & comments.

    Rob
     
  2. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    The first thing I would suggest is removing the grille blocking altogether, then see if the problem replicates. If not, the temps and driving were probably a bit too warm for the grille block

    My inverter coolant tank is near the top, slightly past the Full mark. The engine coolant tank is around 70% filled. It helps to check in a dark place - inside a garage or at night - by using a flashlight.

    Put the flashlight directly onto the engine coolant tank the level should be at least 50%. If it's less, that could mean a leak or never properly filled

    The cap on the engine coolant tank should have two hoses, one goes to the motor and rad, the other is a short overflow tube that goes alongside the tank. If the cap is damaged, it's possible the engine has been allowed to run with air in it.

    Note, the actual rad cap is under the plastic trim pieces between the front cowl and rad. You have to take that crap off to see the cap itself
     
  3. JimN

    JimN Let the games begin!

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    Rob, has the fan turned on? This is a situation where I would err on the side of caution. I would pull the insulation although I don't believe it is a factor and take the car to the dealer. If the fan is off and the light isn't on steady I don't think it's overheating but something isn't quite right.

    For example, last week the low coolant light on my Intrigue stayed lit for a few minutes. The coolant in the recovery tank appears to be a bit low. The light hasn't lit since. I'm changing the coolant since it is due not because I believe the idiot light indicates a problem.
     
  4. seasalsa

    seasalsa Active Member

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  5. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Be careful there as it is hard on the block to have repeated heat spikes. You could damage the head gasket or worse. Plus with no gauge you don't know how spiking it's getting. If it was me I would check the water pump to see if the weep hole is leaking. The bearing could be going on the water pump. You don't mention you maintenance routine. When was the last time you changed the coolant? Whats it look like if you open the cap to the rad not the coolant recovery? Whats the miles? If the coolant recovery tank is repeatedly low you got a leak somewhere.Period. First culprit is weep hole. Do you smell coolant ? If no leak and your spiking one of the electric rad fans as mentioned earlier is probably bad. Easy to check that. One fan is cooling and the other is ac assist. Put on the ac on full blast after car is thoroughly warmed up and look under the hood and both fans should be running. But if a leak get that fixed asap.The one thing I dislike about our cars is no temp gauge. I would guess by the time the temp light comes on full time its done some damage.
     
  6. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Thanks for the comments. I will certainly pull the grill block and see if that helps. It seems like I am losing coolant somewhere, so we'll have to track that down. Beyond that, I guess we'll have to see.

    Rob
     
  7. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    Jim

    There is a TSB out for some GM vehicles with the coolant level sensor in the overflow tank. The sensor can get gunked up and sometimes give a false low reading.

    That said, it's also a good idea on GM vehicles to keep the overflow tank higher than the Min level. Otherwise air can get into the system and accelerate corrosion. Some reports indicate the early horror stories of Dex Cool - "Death Cool" - stemmed from this

    jay
     
  8. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    A 2005 shouldn't be ready for a coolant change unless over 100,000 miles. Do not continue driving the car with low coolant and/or a leak. Aluminum block/head motors are nowhere near as tolerant of low coolant or overheat spikes compared to old fashioned cast iron blocks/heads

    The air bleed procedure can also be complicated, due to the thermos used in the Prius. This really isn't a Shadetree mechanic type of procedure. If you have access to a vacuum coolant bleeding system, that is best:

    http://www.mityvac.com/info_sheets/MV4535_Info.pdf

    I have one at my hobby farm, and the nice thing is you collapse any air trapped in the block or rad.

    If you don't have hot air coming out the vents when set to Max Heat, you probably already have air trapped in the system. Continued operation could bugger up the motor, coolant transfer pump, etc.

    Get it fixed ASAP
     
  9. Flying White Dutchman

    Flying White Dutchman Senior Member

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    Dont get it!

    wy wurry about overheating the prius?
    the car sensors will tell you when its time to stop and before there is any damage! thats wat there for!
     
  10. Bob64

    Bob64 Sapphire of the Blue Sky

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    the car sensors ARE telling him somethings wrong. The question is why it is intermittent.
     
  11. tbirdhs

    tbirdhs Tbirdhs

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    On the note of loosing fluid. make sure the small line from just below the radiator cap that goes to the bottom of the reseivour is connected. fluid goes back and forth threw this line as engine heats up and then cools down. Make sure the cap is tight also. That can stop the vaccum from forming and not let the coolling engine suck up needed fluid.
     
  12. Flying White Dutchman

    Flying White Dutchman Senior Member

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    ok sorry
    i was thinking the can scan only told the temp is high and the prius engine temp light dit not come on!
     
  13. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Turned out to be pinhole leak in lower hose causing coolant loss, particularly under pressure. Coolant had gotten low enough to get air trapped in system. Dealer replaced hose and purged system, ~$300. Not too painful.

    Thanks all for your help!
    Rob
     
  14. subarutoo

    subarutoo New Member

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    Just my .02. I've never used a grill blocking device, but I do have a scangage, and the highest temp I've seen is 206F (usually about 184F), while climbing a moderate grade in the summer. I didn't see a temp warning light come on, but was watching the temp on the scan gage. First, I would lose the grill block, and invest in a scangage (or similar) to monitor the actual temp, and not rely just on the light.
     
  15. icarus

    icarus Senior Member

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    The Prius thermostat BEGINS to open ~185. It isn't fully open until~205f.

    205 is NOT too hot. That begs the question of what is too hot. In my mind, if the fans are on full, and the temp doesn't go below ~220f then you might be getting a bit hot. Modern pressurized cooling systems won't boil until somethin in the 260f range. I wouldn't run all day at that temp, but your fine at 205f.

    It would be nice if some engineering type could/would give us a definitive "never to exceed temp".

    In my Subaru, with the scan gauge, the middle of the scale on the car temp gauge is 195, a long way from the "too hot" mark.

    Icarus
     
  16. fccjben

    fccjben New Member

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    My 2008 is very sensitive to low coolant flow and intermittently triggers the red triangle. Only takes about a pint or so to make the alarm go away. Car did have front end collision and shortly after repair, triangle went nuts. Called shop and they said oops, we thought we ran it long enough to get system hot and filled. That was over a year ago and only had same problem occur today. Again, just a little coolant stopped triangle.