Check Engine + Light Triangle + TCS+ P0AFA P3000 On

I recently purchased a 2008 Prius w/ 202k that had been sitting for approximately 1 year. I went to check it out and managed to get to the battery to jump it and car started up but had the CEL, Red Triangle, TCS lights on as well as the P0AFA + P3000 codes on.

The car stayed on all motor and never shut off, the hybrid system showed all but 2 lines at BLUE and still ran, felt sluggish but would still run. I have not had a chance to look at it as its getting towed to my house tomorrow but I wanted to check with all my Prius GURUS on what you all recommend I look at before determining it to be a dead HV battery.

Doing a quick search on the codes, I read some saying possible cause for those codes others than a bad HV battery were: wiring issue at HV battery, inspect HV ECU for broken/burnt pins as well as the harness and loose connectors. I also read on here somewhere from a post that it is possible to "jump start" or charge up dead cells but you need a specific "program"? Not sure if that is in fact true but if so, what would that program be (tech-stream??)?

Extra info:
- 12v battery did not hold a charge even after 30 minutes of leaving car on
- HV battery replaced by owner in 2018

Any and all info would be greatly appreciated.

 

I used a Blue Driver OBD2 scanner.

The only codes were P3000 and P0AFA. But upon reading the last link you sent me it gives me much more hope that this "could" be a corrosion issue at the wires or worst case scenario a bad Hybrid Battery ECM needing replacement which if so, should be about $75-$100 (according to Ebay) and not the HV battery itself.

I will download the Dr.Prius app as well as the OP mentioned and read the battery voltages and report.

Any other ideas?

 

So every time I read "orange plug" it refers to the one that goes into the hybrid battery ECU and NOT the orange SAFETY/SERVICE plug that you disconnect any time you are working on the electrical side of things right? Now, I was going to check the connectors as you mentioned as it's what everyone else seems to be doing and @MAX2 has provided very useful links with photos and all.

I last worked on my old 2008 over a year ago and recalled removing the orange service plug before working on the electrical (since I replaced the ABS actuator) and did left it off overnight along with disconnecting battery to avoid any potential shock and some said it might be overkill but rather safe than sorry. What exactly does the manual say is the recommended step to ensure all electrical systems are discharged when working with/at or near the electrical on these?

I just downloaded Dr.Prius as well and how does this work? Will it pair up with my BlueDriver when connected on the vehicle and do I need wifi to use it or just bluetooth as I have the BlueDriver connected to my iPad but when on the go, I don't have internet but can still use it since its solely bluetooth driven.

 

So a "few" minutes is what the manual suggests? I was aware of all the orange plugs or wires indicate electrical components w/ potentially over 200v associated with them. As mentioned, I left both batt and service plug off overnight, but I guess I was curious as to what the actual service manual (if anyone has it available) actually recommends.

 

Got it, yeah that's why I feel few, several could vary based on ones understanding. I was hoping someone had the service manual and would be able to provide the actual time MINI recommends. Of course, I'll probably still wait double that time just to be safe jajaja.

Hey, no one wants to get a handshake from a 200v+ cable/component.

 

I still have not brought the car but will try it as soon as it gets here and let you know. I just really hope it isn't a new HV battery what I need.

 

Update:

I got the car, installed a new battery from costco and nothing changed as far as the HV kicking in, still same codes. I opened the trunk area and got to the HV battery and inspected the Hybrid ECU and visually it is in very good shape, connectors are clean and intact as well as cables. I have not removed the cell cover to see the connectors that go to every cell yet (it got dark) but will do that next.

I am just thinking that if the connectors are all clean then it most likely wiil be the HV battery huh? It was replaced in 2017 according to the receipt in the service records stack of papers and owner paid $1450 for the replacement. Out of warranty already too.

Any other thoughts?

** Also, on another note I tried using the Dr.Prius app on a 2010 prius I was checking out the other day and my BlueDriver showed up on the bluetooth list of the app and showed a blue checkmark next to as if connected but nothing happen after that, no option to go back or go to the screen where it shows the battery levels. Am i missing something?

 

I figured it would be too good to be true that this bluedriver was that good jajaj…Well as far as reading all codes, the bluedriver does read all codes off a 2010 especially permanent and history of codes that have been on the vehicle. I scanned a 2010 and it gave me the current, pending and previous history to include body modules like airbags and sensors that have caused faults at some point. That allowed me to find out the car had been in previous accident and passed on it. \

But yeah thanks for the info, I def dont have any pf those scanners so will see what I do next.

 

I just ordered the Autel AP200 from Amazon, according to the post its one of the ones they recommend so I hope I don't run in to any issues as I thought my BlueDriver would have worked since it has been worth every penny til now.

So the post you referred to is only showing what some scanner dongles can/cannot read I did not find anywhere where it says the Autel AP200 works to with the DR.PRIUS app to read the individual cell voltage. I did not have any issues reading codes with my blue driver even history of codes. All I need at this point is to know what dongle works with the Dr.Prius app. Everyone keeps asking on that post "so does this XXXX scanner work with the app?" and responses just mention all the app scans but no one answers the specific question on if the Autel AP200 works with the app. Im not sure if I missed it but don't recall reading it.

Thanks

 

Yeah guys thank you I had gone directly to the app after the fact and saw which work and doesn't even mention the Autel AP200 the cheapest option appears to be the OBDlink MX at $139