Finished replacing booster/accumulator. Brake Bleed Next

Okay, so I got the Noco Genius 10, and I tried charging the battery on AGM 12V mode. It suspiciously charged from discharged to 100% really fast, within just a few minutes. I then ran the repair mode, and then charged it again. It was still suspiciously fast. Hypothesis: 12V battery is bad, and needs to be replaced.

But I went ahead and tried to run the brake bleed with the Noco Genius 10 attached to the leads. The brake systems regular interval buzz remained high pitch which sounded better, because before the pitch got really low without the Noco attached.

I reset the memory again, and began the brake bleed.

Unfortunately, all was not well.

From the rear wheels, when I did brake bleed, I got NOTHING out of them. I even totally removed the bleed valve, and nothing came out. (On a previous bleed attempt I did get probably whatever residual fluid was out of the line).

On the front wheels, I was able to bleed them succesfully, the FIRST time. Then I was told by tech stream to bleed the stroke simulator. At first it seemed to work, I got some brake fluid out of it. I was almost even satisfied that I got a bleed, but then no more fluid came out. Techstream told me to bleed the front brakes again... but now, no fluid was coming out of them either.



My brake pedal assistant reported to me that the brake pedal was difficult or impossible to depress at times, and when I started to bleed the front brakes the pedal became easier to depress once the fluid started.

Hypothesis: 12V battery is still bad, so maybe it still isn't working due to the bad 12V battery. Next step on my mind is to replace the battery and try again. If that fails, I feel like I have a problem with the new parts I installed.


Thoughts?

 

Brake pedal was held down. No fluid came out of the bleeder valve. Is it supposed to be nearly instant or is it more like you open the valve and might have to wait several minutes for fluid to come out?

 

So I got a replacement Toyota TrueStart battery today.

I was in a rush to clear the garage out for garage door mechanics sent by the garage owner to do their work. So I actually put the car in reverse like immediately after hooking it up, and the car was able to inch backwards but I had to overcome some kind of substantial force. So some kind of braking force seems to exist that I was fighting with the accelerator. Although, I was also dragging the front plastic plate that protects the undercarriage that was hanging half off the front of the car, although I kinda doubt that can cause enough friction to make a difference.

Later hopefully I can scoot the Prius back in the garage and try again with the brake bleed with the new battery.

I am a bit terrified of the possibility that I need to redo the repair with all the parts due to some kind of issue with the parts or maybe damage I might have caused pressurizing the system with my two fuzzy brain cells.

 

My dealership is 20 miles away, and I am also pretty stubborn. It might come down to that eventually, but first I'm going to shove my hamfists into the car some more and spin my proverbial wheels a bit longer.

I attached my Noco to it and it seems that it is indeed charged as it came.

So it turns out I left the parking brake on. I remember pushing on it, but I apparently didn't fully release it. Parking brake works at least. I went into D and drove back forwards into the garage. With parking brake off, I get some brake force through pedals, but very minimal.

 

Okay. So with the fresh TrueStart Toyota battery and the Noco Genius 10 attached, I attempted the brake bleed again. ZERO fluid came out of the rear brakes. The front brakes and the stroke simulator bled just fine. In fact, I managed to make the brake fluid reservoir practically empty itself, (I know, wrong-o move-o, but last time I tried this I couldn't get the fluid level in the reservoir to even budge so I was really surprised how fast it emptied this time), but not that much fluid came out into my brake fluid catcher. I almost feel like maybe the entire system was so purged of fluid that it sucked it all out of the reservoir and into the unit, but not much came out of the bleeder valve. If something like that is the case, then how do I get it into the rear brakes I wonder?

My braking assistant at first reported that once the brake bleeding procedure was started on techstream, it was nearly impossible to depress the brakes at all until I opened the front bleeder and some fluid came out.

I wish I knew how the parts worked so I knew which brake lines might be related to the rear brakes. I wonder if something like this could be from doing something stupid like installing the wrong brake line in the wrong hole? I feel like they are all correct, but maybe I swapped a line or something?

In Techstream during the rear brake bleed steps, the brake pedal is extremely difficult to push down and makes an awful creaking noise. But no fluid comes out.

Unless I try something tomorrow, I'll have to put this project aside until next week.

 

I tracked down where I bought it from and it looks like it was advertised as used but tested good in a car before being removed to be sold.

And also I noticed something the other day when I was working on it. The old brake booster had different letters inscribed on it than the new ones. The old one was marked LA and the new one was marked EC. I went to take a closer look, and sure enough the part number is written on the side of the actuators.

47210-47350 versus 47210-47310
The old one:


The new one (first digit is a 4)


So, does this pretty much confirm that the new part is totally wrong? On Toyotapartsdeal.com I put in my VIN and it suggested for me 47050-47180 and 47050-47190, which doesn't match either the new nor the old one.

That could also explain why the brake pedal didn't want to engage stoplight sensor and I had to bend the sheet metal to make it reach after adjusting the push rod as far as it could go.

 

I found this thread here which says, confusingly, the numbers on the side aren't part numbers, even though they are the same format:

Break actuator replacement. | PriusChat

47210-47310, my new one, per that thread, is part number 47050-47140, for a 2010 specific prius?

The ads for a lot of these parts from many third party sellers on ebay and elsewhere are potentially a little misleading labeled fit "gen 3 prius" or give a wide range of years that they supposedly fit. The ad for the one I bought said it fit 2010-2012 Prius, but there are even worse ads out there saying 2010-2015 and even 2010-2019. I guess a lot of people probably just don't know exactly what the part they are selling fits.

Autoparts.toyota.com let me put in my VIN then suggested 47050-47140 "may not fit" and also suggests 47050-47180 or 47050-47190 like toyotapartsdeal did.

 

So then, follow up question... if the actuator part doesn't match, does that probably mean the booster is a mismatch that could cause issues too? Or maybe that part is more universal?

Looks like I bought the wrong part due to my inadequate decision making ability. Time to, I guess, buy the right part and try again. I appreciate you all.