Attempt to change the brake actuator myself?

The problem you're going to have here is the generation 3 is pretty much completely electronic for the most part You can't for the most part install the brake actuator like you do in a generation too and then get it to be drivable without the computer I'm pretty sure but you can give it a whirl If you are careful and you block off all your feeds of brake fluid to the actuator keeping the reservoir full and then if you install the parts the one that takes all the brake lines correctly and then let the fluid go from the reservoir to feed the main block that has all the lines going to it and you can let the air out of those lines as it fills up the actuator generally from the bottom to the top It might be worth a try I don't generally mess with the generation 3s too much personally but I would certainly try that but I'm thinking that may not work and then you would be driving to your friend was very awkward breaks they would probably work but boy you would have some stories to tell you might think

 

Any chance he can come to you? Just a thought too: run through the bleed procedure with his device, ensure it'll complete, before plunging in.

I've been thinking of such strategy too (if/when ours might fail), doing the hardware replacement, then driving it (if possible) to nearby dealership for the bleed. How about running that scenario by a dealership service department. If they're agreeable, that'd be another option, and also, they may disclose if it is practical to drive it, albeit a short distance, just to get to them.

 

Yeah I think by the time that comes up everybody will have the software by then You look it any capable scanner that can do the bleeding of the Prius brakes it's running the same menu as Toyotas it's like an exact copy of their software or whatever even down to the text font . So you may for like $68 be able to buy a capable scanner that can bleed your brakes linear valve offset mess with the steering and other things by that time should be widely available by then my AP200 that I'm using now will do that I do believe. Then you won't have to take anything anywhere I'm not sure the Toyota dealer would guarantee or if the thing bricked they wouldn't cover you they would tell you you put this thing in you've changed all the stuff you've done all the plugging up and all of that so if something goes bad it's not on us all we're doing is plugging up to the VCI port whatever happens after that and for wires squished or there's a dead short or something's wrong we can't be held liable that's why they probably might not do it at all an independent shop might.

 

Our 2011 Prius 3 at 144K is at the point where the accumulator pump is running about every 15 seconds, but it hasn't thrown any codes yet.

It also makes a strange muted ratcheting/ticking sound sometimes when the brakes are applied, noticeable when coming to a stop from relatively low speed (25mph), say coming to a stop for a stop sign, right turn, etc. If I had to guess it sounds like the ABS actuator activating at a low level, but there are no codes or indication that the ABS system is engaged.

I don't recall anyone else mentioning this sound, just the frequent running of the pump.

SM-G781V ?

 

@6cylinderbike, in case you haven't seen this one, pretty good:

Just noticed too: in his intro comment, he links the scan tool he's using for the post-replacement bleed process. Or bootleg Techstream plus a cable, on a laptop.

 

Well if you wind up buying a subscription to the Toyota software for 2 days or something like that you'll want to have an internet connection so when it scans your car all the relevant updates to the computers and whatnot can show up and be valid and downloaded and whatever for your car without an internet connection well it's kind of pointless generally speaking other than you'll be able to bleed the brakes which I think you can do with the $63 tool and not have to get a subscription to anything or even have to have a 2534 cable the $63 device plugs into your OBD2 port and bleeds the brakes from there at least it does on my generation too and I think it will do it on my generation 3 too but we can't get them long enough to run to have to do the brakes

 

On further thinking, I believe the muted clicking, ticking sound is coming from my CV joints. It's happening when I take turns at low speed, yes, sometimes brakes are applied, but it makes sense now.

Will put the car on jackstands and take a look at the halfshafts/CV boots/joints today.

SM-G781V ?

 

No personal experience, but I've read if for example the sound occurs when you're turning right it's likely the left one that's bad, and vice versa.

 

Get your half shafts remanned locally or buy them they're pretty inexpensive as parts go and there's no real argument to be had about quality especially if you buy them locally by a local guy who rebuilds and does half shafts they'll probably be correct If you buy them online don't buy the $20 ones but you don't have to spend $300 either

 

Yes, I believe I notice it when making right turns, and it does sound like it may be coming from the left, driver's side.

SM-G781V ?

 

VCI j2534 clones won't work, at least this is my experience, they throw an error in the middle of the calibration.

Tactrix open port cable does work, the genuine one costs 160 euro and you can use techstream software that came with vci

 

Mine has made that noise during slow turns for at least the past 100k miles. Boots are ok. It has nothing to do with the brake actuator.

 

Yeah, I jacked her up and all of the CV boots were OK, I didn't see any holes/splits, leaking or grease slung around anywhere.

I guess I'll let it go for a bit more.

SM-G781V ?