Rough startup when cold, P0300-P0303 codes

Thanks, that's good to know. I'll inspect the pan for leaks instead, and only do it if leaking. Any tips for doing the timing chain cover FIPG? The timing chain kit I got includes a new tensioner and gasket, so should be good there once I torque it on properly.

 

I have the head, cam housing, and timing chain and cover on now. I followed the manual and of course watched the video on the sealant for the timing chain cover. It's definitely much easier when using a 24 hour sealant since you don't have to finish torquing in 15 minutes. I need to go to the dealer for a couple of valve cover gaskets that didn't come with the felpro head gasket kit I bought, as well as some radiator hoses I decided to replace. Maybe I'll be able to crank her up by this weekend.

Regarding the oil pan, I appreciate RJParker's input. It's possible it might be seeping a tiny bit but doesn't look like anything that will drip. It can definitely wait, and I looked at the procedure and saw the removal is difficult due to prying off with the old sealant in place. I did want to see what the oil at the bottom of the pan looked like. I had removed the dipstick tube, so I stick the dipstick into the hole until I felt bottom. Does this reach the bottom of the pan? The oil looked clean (I had changed it 1000 miles ago, and nothing sludge like was on the tip where it touched metal. I've done pretty well at changing the oil and filter, and It looks like the previous owner did too. In fact they took care of the car pretty well it seems, except of course not doing the things Toyota doesn't tell us about like the EGR system clean.

 

So I got the felpro kit because of the head gasket, but there's definitely an issue with the fuel injector O-rings, when I cranked it, it started leaking and when I pulled the no 2 fuel injector I could see the o-ring was pinched. I'm going to get the OEM gaskets for the injectors.

Of big concern is that the engine was running extremely rough and rattling. I'm not sure what to look into next to see what's happening.

 

Ok, I reset the fuel injectors into the rail and that stopped the leak. I'm gonna order the o-rings from the cheapest toyota source, and keep those on until I get those, as the pinching might have just been a mistake inserting it the first time.

On to the misfire, I'm aware I need to check timing, ignition, and fuel injection. I'm planning to get techstream setup to help diagnose it. Are there any other systems to check? If necessary I'll look back into the cylinders to see if there's any issues with the new gasket, but I followed the manual and videos shared to the letter. For timing, I read on here that I can get cyl 1 to tdc with the valve cover and main pulley off and peek at the crank chain position and compare to the position on the cams. For techstream, is there any quickstart guide on diagnosing misfires?

 

Ok so I pulled the injectors and found the black tips missing on two of them. A third broke off when I gently touched it so the plastic must have gotten brittle. I don’t see any of the tips in the cylinder head ports nor in the cylinders so I’m assuming they broke off earlier and I didn’t see it when reinstalling. Besides that, I checked the timing marks on the chain and sprockets and I think they look good. The two cam markers line up and the yellow crank marker lines up to the dot visible through the timing cover.

 

This. I could have left the injectors and rail on the head but I didn’t feel comfortable leaving them in when taking it to get machined and working on the valves and steam seals. Those things leak like hell if you don’t get them in right or worse the o-ring will shred.

in other news, Curie, (my gen 3 is named after a shuttlecraft on Star Trek TNG), is back up and running. On to 250K miles. And EGR cleaning every 30k? And emptying the oil catch can every oil change.