Just did the head gasket on my 2013. Had the head completely rebuilt and resurfaced, did all the things one should, and everything was great. Lots of things replaced along the way. For two weeks it was running like a champ with excellent gas mileage (after correcting a ground wire). I went to get the A/C recharged (I accidentally discharged it during the rebuild). Local place did the job, system held vacuum, charged back up, but the compressor wouldn't come to life. There was a certain code that paired with A/C issue suggested a bad inverter fuse, and wouldn't you know - it tested bad! (Part 90982-11050) So I got a new fuse from the Toyota dealer and popped it in, ready for everything to finally come to life without errors! Nope. Now the dash lights up like a Christmas tree, says to check hybrid system, and won't even go into ready mode. It's completely locked up. HUH!? (I swapped back the old fuse - same result.) When I replaced the fuse, the safety plug was removed, the 12V battery was disconnected, and I tested for voltage at the site (there wasn't any voltage). I have removed and replaced and inspected the service safety plug many times. I've tested voltage at the fuse. I've ensured the safety mechanism on the inverter cover is seated. I have cleared the code dozens of times, only for it to IMMEDIATELY come back. I mean immediately. I have disconnected the 12V battery for days hoping for a magical reset. I have tried MANY combinations of unplugging and resetting and whatnot. I am absolutely baffled and now the car has been sitting for 4 weeks. Anyone come across this wild situation? Does anyone have a lead on an electrical schematic? This is crazy. Codes I get now: P0A0D & C1259 <- I'm pretty sure this "C" code wasn't present a few weeks ago, when I last ran diagnostics.
Check your orange service grip plug Make sure it's slammed down all the way. And then you're fighting and no start condition I do believe so you have to troubleshoot that in itself and yes people here do have the manuals but it's kind of tricky to just send the whole PDF file of the manual usually they'll put up sections of the giving troubleshooting portion that you're looking for You can buy the whole generation 3 PDF of the manual set on eBay for like $80 legitimately I mean they're hacked or whatever you want to call it but they're factory copies of the manual If you're going to continue to do this kind of stuff it's very cheap way to have the manual then you can sit at your computer with a big monitor and looking for pages at a time or do whatever you want they don't make it in a book form anymore I'd never did for the car you have but when this happened to my car with the air conditioning and the generation 3 after putting in a JDM spec engine from that market I had the same problem with the air conditioner and it was not any fuses I don't know what it was I left it unplugged for a couple of weeks I never discharged my air when I change the engine I left the compressor hanging in the car connected and charged. When I went to re-plug it up it would make my hybrid battery go wonky and drain it sitting in the driveway so I unplugged it so I can troubleshoot the rest of the business got the car running great Heat all of that. It was winter time anyway then a few weeks went by car was running good everything was running fine I had also had my guy in another county builds me a battery It's what he does on the side so I got that put in and now it was getting into March and starting to get a little warmer so I just decided we would plug up the air conditioner orange plug under the hood so I had my wife sitting in the car. And I had the hood up and I made sure that she had everything turned off except the car on ready. And I just plugged the air conditioner orange plug into the back of the silver compressor down low on the motor stood up and told my other half to turn on the air conditioning full blast high high fan l o on the temperature or thermostatic gauge and the compressor immediately came on started to pump cold air the fat silver line on the compressor got ice cold I dropped the hood and we went for a ride for an hour and had ice cold air like we had always had and everything was great for about 6 weeks then it started rattling like the head gasket was blown in the JDM engine that I just bought and that's when I gave up on the generation 3s and now we have four generation twos and parting out two generation 3s and that's that
P0A0D 350 Operating any of the safety devices with the vehicle stopped (ILK signal is ON) and turning the power switch on (IG) P0A0D 351 Interlock signal line opens (ILK signal is ON) while the vehicle is being driven Wire harness or connector Power Management Control ECU Service plug grip Inverter with converter assembly Frame wire Inverter terminal cover There is a break in the chain of control points. Most likely, the cover in the inverter is not fully latched.
I’m led to believe the same, I just can’t for the life of me find where. I’ve spent hours and hours inspecting connections and clips. I swear I’m missing something incredibly simple. I ought to find a second set of eyes to just have a look with me. Sometimes that’s all it takes.
The inverter cover safeties are not very fancy. Essentially there are pins on the cover that fit into terminals below it to complete the circuit. Look closely to make sure they're lining up right, not bent, and so on. Of course, the pins back at the orange service plug that only mate when the handle is slid back into place are the culprit a lot of the time.
If you haven't got an ohmmeter, you can find one at any big-box store for cheap. The safety circuit is a simple series string of wires and safety contacts leading from an ECU's ILK terminal to ground. Follow it with an ohmmeter and find out where the continuity stops.
Thank you very much for taking the time. I will try doing so this afternoon. I have a very fancy voltmeter that’s highly underutilized due to my very basic understanding of electronics. Time to increase that knowledge just a step.
The fancy voltmeter has an ohmmeter setting on it, I'll bet. Now all you need is to remember where you put the manual for it.
Thank you. I am missing the row of pins where 35 and 36 would be located on my inverter. Do you, perhaps, have a schematic like this but for the 2013 Prius? My VIN is JTDKN3DU8D5622458. Model code ZVW. Safety switch tested good for continuity. I made a wire jumper for the safety switch signal as well as the inverter cover signal, but those connections are not my problem either, it seems. I'm still getting P0A0D and C1259. It's incredible that I can do the head gasket, timing chain, etc. without a hitch, yet I replace ONE fuse and I've spent longer trying to solve this than I did on the other repairs. Ugh
35 and 36 are also shown in my 2010 wiring diagram, and I doubt they moved between years of the same generation. Connector A59 looks like this: If those pins are missing you might have a continuity problem.
ha! Indeed I might! I was erroneously testing where the red arrows point. I assumed that the numbers at the top and bottom corresponded to the pins at those corners, respectively. (I AM at the right spot, right?) So, now I’ve tested 35 & 36 where those green arrows point and I have an open circuit! Now to figure out how to get the lower part of the safety connection off of the inverter?! attached is also a picture of said “safety connection”.
Wait, so the inverter connector is the pinny one and the wire harness connector is the sockety one? So if you test at your green arrows on the sockety side, you wouldn't expect to see any continuity—those are just two different wires, one leading to the power management control ECU and one heading back toward the battery. Now if you test with an ohmmeter between pins 35 and 36 on the inverter, and all the covers are in place, you should see continuity between those pins (well, a resistance of about 2 Ω). If the covers aren't in place, you should at least be able to see continuity (1 Ω) between pin 35 and one of the terminal cover sockets, and continuity (1 Ω) between pin 36 and one of the frame wire safety sockets. If both of those check out, you'd next look for continuity between the other frame-wire socket and the other terminal-cover socket. Then you can report back just where the continuity isn't. Getting all the way down to where the inverter A59 connector goes in is probably a lot of disassembly, and a job for special Toyota thermal paste on reassembly. I wouldn't open that can of worms unless I could find nothing else first.
