2015 Prius here. I went past 90,000 miles a couple of weeks ago. One thing I have noticed over the last couple of months is it seems like my key fob battery is glitching. Sometimes it will recognize the fob and other times it doesn't. Once it starts to never recognize it, I replace the battery but I will still get the same thing every couple of days and then I can go weeks between any problems but the battery lasts only 5 months or so. I do have another key fob I can start using if you think that might be the problem or are the batteries just weak or is there something wrong with the car picking up the signal? What kind of maintenance will be due soon? The only things I've had done in the 6 years or so I've owned it is oil changes and some new tires. What should I start looking out for or expecting to go wrong? I have googled Prius maintenance but it's mostly just general guidelines. I need the pros here to give it to me straight.
90,000 is the total mileage of the car since its release, or is it your achievement in six years? In addition to oil changes, there are quite a few maintenance procedures that increase the life of the car. This topic describes Gen3 in detail. 2010 Prius Maintenance Schedule (US) | PriusChat
Total. Would a 2010 be exactly the same as a 2015? I know they are both gen 3 but 2015 is surely better than a 2010 and doesn't need as much correct?
There were some cosmetic changes in 2012, a new set of audio and nav choices, and leather upholstery replaced with Softex. By 2015 I think there may also have been revised pistons/rings, possibly less likely to develop oil burning. I would still stick to 5k changes and check the dipstick regularly if it were mine.
There's what's due according to Toyota, which is "fairly" complete. There's what's due according to the dealership, which varies, but can border on larceny. The are things due according to Toyota USA, but ignored by dealerships, likley because it's hard work with relatively low profit margin, coupled with highish labor/parts costs, which scares off the owners. So the two parties "enable" each other.An example of that would be an in-depth brake inspection, which Toyota recomends tri-yearly or 30k miles, whichever comes first. Then there's things that neither Toyota nor the dealerships want to talk about, deal with. Examples: 1. Transaxle fluid change (god knows why, it's as simple as dirt) 2. Brake fluid change (Gen 3 has a non-Techstream procedure that's easily doable by DIY'rs on their toes. Dealerships will do it if you insist, but tend to give you "brush-off" quotes. Again, not sure why. FWIW, Toyota Canada recommends tri-yearly or 30k miles.) 3. EGR system cleaning. This is the hot potato. With your miles I'd look into it, soon, and repeat at least every 50k miles. I have this unsubstantiated notion that not doing this is the prime reason head gaskets are blowing, around 150k miles. More info on all of the above in my signature. If you're on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures.
That seems like a lot of stuff for a car that is supposed to be the least expensive or top 3 least expensive cars to own. I have read so many posts of people only needing new tires and brakes and oil changes obviously with 150,000 miles. How much should all of that stuff cost me?
just some ballpark numbers: Transaxle fluid change: $100 (all USD) Brake fluid change: $150 Brake inspection (no parts replaced): $400~500 EGR system cleaning: $600~800 (The last through a competent independent shop, dealerships are useless. Or DIY: see my signature. On a phone turn landscape to see signatures. )
Not a pro, but have a 2007 that blew engine due to oil leaks and a 2012 with 202k that blew head gasket. 1)EGR cleaning 2)Oil checks at EVERY gas fillup and changed every 5k, NOT 10k 3)at 90k you should have had brakes redone already twice. 4) Key fobs go bad. It will start eating batteries weekly. Get a new one from the local hardware store. 5) If your alarm system starts to go off, have them check EVERY door sensor for corrosion/dirt. Took a YEAR for them to figure that one out!
A brake inspection doesn't automatically entail pad replacement. It's kinda analogous to having your teeth scaled, a check up. You pull off the calipers, disassemble and clean the pads/shims, check caliper glide pins, and if any sticking clean and relube them, check runout and rotor thickness, and reassemble everything with appropriate grease at the faying surfaces.
I wouln't get complacent on the EGR cleaning, at the least. I'd also be inclined to replace the water pump (more succinctly, the engine coolant pump) around 100K, or not much later. They seem to fail with increasing frequency around 150K, often quietly.
I got a coupon in the mail for a $9.95 oil change from my local dealership. I will call up and make an appointment. I am sure they will upcharge me since I am getting synthetic but I will verify on the phone the price before I make the appointment. Says they will also do a complimentary multipoint inspection so I can see what they recommend and want to rip me off on.
I won't get the work done. You misread the post. They WANT to rip me off. Key word is WANT. I'll get a good deal on the oil change and eat their donuts but that's all.
It can be the least expensive with $10 oil changes and all the other fluids untouched. Darn cheap until... somewhere around 125k-150k miles when your engine burns a quart of oil every 1200 miles (all the oil in 5,000 miles) because of extended change intervals or use of dino oil, followed by a $2500 brake booster, a failed head gasket ($2500 hg to $7500 engine) and a sudden inverter stranding (inconvenient but cheap due to extended warranty). Oh yes, can't forget the $2700 hybrid battery (prices going up), all possible before 200k miles on a low maintenance poorly engineered gen3. Not normal on a hybrid. 200k-300k is more like it depending on braking habits and perhaps salt free winters. Probably will be $45 plus tax, still a deal although the inspection is just looking for more commissions.
I did not misread the post. You don’t understand what I wrote. They can’t rip anyone off. If they say it will cost X amount, and you say yes, do it, you APPROVED of the work for X amount of money. You can always say NO. And look for for an independent shop that likely will cost less.
They hope you are a typical uninformed owner who does not know what the maintenance schedule in your glovebox recommends. They hope you do not know their recommended fuel system flushes are not needed. They hope you don't know the mileage interval for coolant system drain and fills. They hope you don't know the difference between a drain and fill and a more expensive flush. They hope you don't know the service advisor is a commissioned salesman usually without mechanic experience. The service advisors are really no different than the new car salesmen who add $2k worth of paint sealers, tint and floor mats. You get everything you agree to but the extras may be overpriced or simply not needed.