Anybody have experience with Hyundai's? My daughter traded in her wonderful 2016 Mazda CX-5 for a used 2021 Hyundai Palisade Limited a few years ago so I've been doing maintenance for her. Gotta admit, NOT a fan of that old-school GDI engine that takes 5W-30. (I only use synthetic on her.) A couple week ago, I did an oil change (every 5,000 miles) and the old oil wasn't black but almost had a tan tin to it....brought back the "milk shake" videos I've seen on YouTube videos. The coolant was full but the reservoir was a bit low so I got some coolant from the dealer and filled it up and will keep an eye on it....I really hope she's not losing her head gasket. (No smoke or any other issues I've seen.) If it keeps drinking coolant, I'll have to get a head gasket tester. Stupid thing doesn't have 60,000 miles yet. (And I learned the 100,000, 10-year warranty turns into 50,000, 5-years when the vehicle is sold....nice.) I told her I'm now doing oil changes every 3,000 miles so I can keep an eye on it.
Want to hear a crazy story from our local Toyota dealer? One of my managers, Mike, told me this story. Last Monday, Mike's wife took her 2022 Toyota Highlander to get an oil change. When it was done, they called her into the Service Manager area to get the paperwork as the car was pulled into the big bay area. (It has 3 lanes with big doors on both sides, which were all open since it was a warm day.) She finished the paperwork and was told it was in the garage. She looked out the window and, nope, no car there. After quite a fuss, they got to see the security footage and some guy went out there, got in the car, and drove off....yep, grand theft auto! As of Friday, they haven't heard from the police if it was recovered, yet. Toyota does have a tracker system but will only pass that info to law enforcement. Is that crazy or what?
LoL; I was looking at Hyundai & Kia a few years back - then I found out that 100K mile warranty only applies to the original purchaser. That stopped me right there!!!!! Then I found out about the Sonata engine recall..... Sounds like your going to have to leave an apple tag in it.... The dealership is responsible since she never took delivery of the car; it was left in the dealerships care and custody. The dealership will probably argue that by presenting the paperwork sign-off and state that sign-off is her taking custody of the car. Anyway, that's a dealership procedural issue - leaving the fob in the car instead of handing it to the customer, service writer, or car intake personnel - usually standing in the same area. YMMV
Yeah, I, also, think the dealership is liable. Sad part is she was within a few thousand of having it paid off.
My very first car and I was taking very good care of it at ~70K miles. Brought it to the dealer fore regular maintenance and front end alignment since it was off a little. When I showed up to pick it up they brought me out and showed me a smashed car! Some ran a red light when they were checking the alignment. And they said "sorry" here is the phone number of the person who smashed it at 35 mph. Please get it moved off the lot ASAP. Fine print in the paper you sign when you drop it off says the dealer accepts no responsibility for any damage blah blah. Mike
I've seen similar symptoms before. I'd tighten up the terminals and connections from the fuse panel to the outlet, and then replace the outlet. No way it can be acting up after that.
The dealers around here have the service advisor take the key and paperwork to the cashier. You pay but you don't get the key. The cashier calls a porter to come to them, pick up the keys and pull the car up front. But the porter takes his time getting to the cashier and often takes several set of keys. Some time later they leave the car out front with keys in it. Delays you and makes the car easy prey so you have to stand outside regardless of the weather and wait for it. Stupid.
Should have gone to an attorney. When boilerplate includes language that everybody uses - the industry that does those kind of shenanigans in essence gives you what's known as a "lack of meaningful choice". Yea you're required to take them to court to force them to deal with it - but that's very often easier than fighting someone else's Insurance Company.
Gravel trucks that pass you at PSL+20 ALSO "accept no responsibility" for damages if you're 'following too close.' Signs, signs, everywhere signs.........
Funny dealership story...this one was the Ford Dealership in Anchorage, Alaska, in the 1990's. I had a boss who was leaving and wanted to sell his 2nd car, a 1977 Chevy Chevette that was supposed to be tan but had more rust than tan AND the entire floor under the driver's legs was rusted out...you could actually look down and see the road! Anyway, he told me $500 but I got him down to $300. The thing did run pretty well but "quality" wasn't even thought of when Ford built the thing. (I got a sheet of metal and rounded it out to fit and rivetted it in there....folks at work called the thing a Flintstone Mobile.) Anway, a few years later, we got stationed in Texas so I saw Ford had a good Lease deal on their Windstar vans so drove it to the dealer to make the deal. I parked the Chevette right in front of the dealership. While we were STILL working on the paperwork, someone came over and asked me for the Chevette keys. Why? Because the big manager didn't want that thing parked in the front of his business....they made them move it around back! The Windstar was okay but reports of the transmission going out was widespread so I didn't renew the lease after a few years. (I guess Ford just used the same transmission as the Ford Taurus but the van weighed a lot more...not a smart move.) We did drive that Windstar down the Alaska Highway then made a left and kept driving (camping) through Canada all the way to New York and then went up to visit family in Maine for a month before driving it down to West Texas. I bet if I had bought a Toyota Previa I'd still have it. (I always thought they were one of the ugliest Toyota's ever built.)
Moral: never buy a Chevy Chevette built by Ford? Those were the worst. I had a Ford Bronco II with the 5-speed manual, which turned out pretty much to be a passenger-car transmission from Mazda. I also had a GF with a sailboat. I got pretty quick at changing the bearings in that tranny after long trips with the boat. That Bronco II was kind of a monument to globalization. Engine from Ford Germany, transmission from Mazda, transfer case from Borg-Warner, body from Ford Canada. All the nuts and bolts were metric except the ones attaching the transfer case to the tranny.
Thinking to cobble a ramp for our dog, looking for slope guidelines, there’s lots, but without fail they’re expressed in degrees. maybe time for common sense editorial direction? Maybe one in ten reading these guidelines will have the wherewithal to translate that guideline into something usable, say multiplying a run by tan of the angle, yielding a rise.
The curriculum people must have been on to something when they decided we should be shown how to do that in school.
When I took a steel detailing course, post high school in a trades college, had an excellent instructor. He gave us useful application exercises, calculating sloping conveyor truss pin base elevation, working back from head pulley work point. That stuff got easy, but there were non-right-angle and belt-in-curve cases that’d leave you flummoxed. CAD was a Gordian Knot slayer for those, basically drawing it to scale, with a very sharp pencil. Even with that you had to be careful, say with multiple mile calculations: if you used only one 0,0 origin, and it a mile or more distant, you’d start getting slightly skewed lines, intersections that didn’t.
. We had a doggie-door on the back corner of our old house. That door was +/-2' off the ground. I took a junk piece of plywood and built a platform outside the door. I then used other scrap wood including more plywood, and just built the ramp with whatever sizes fit. It was about 4' long. NO math was needed. It worked fine for the next 20+ years we lived there. In actuality, the math needed was just to measure that all the parts used were equal and fit together evenly.
That works out to roughly 7 in 12 pitch, or 30 degrees, our dog would probably balk at something that steep. Ramp width is a factor too: for mid-size the recommendation is 22~24", and large dog at least 24". PLus good traction for their claws to grip helps. Guideline for an elderly dog, one that struggles sometimes with steps, and won't hop into the car, is around 18 degrees. Ground to hatch threshold on our 2010 is almost 26", so with that guideline I'm looking at ramp length (on slope) of 82". Our front porch steps are about the same. If I could figure out a hinge in the middle, we could stow it in the hatch.