P0AA6

You can try it usually if you just plug up your old cheap scanner into the plug up in front of the car Just use the code clearing methodology of the cheap scanner and do it two times in a row and that will ready your car and let you drive I don't think driving around like that for a week is going to really hurt anything I wouldn't want to be beating on the car while I was doing that like driving excessively fast on the highway and so on but just regular down to the store and to work and what have you and to get groceries in the evening etc no problem but I wouldn't put a lot of stress on the vehicle for that week wouldn't be trying any silly stuff It's a very common problem your battery is just not isolated from the rest of the car so you're pushing high voltage battery voltage across your 12 volt batteries ground points which is the chassis of the car. Which is the reason the HV battery is isolated and why there's a code if it's not once that isolation is restored everything should be fairly normal and back to like it was before the isolation fault so if your car is in bad shape already with other things that's still going to be after the isolation fault is fixed.

 

Did you read the three digit INF code for the P0AA6 trouble code? If so, what was the INF code. Without knowing the INF code, you do not know where in the car the high voltage isolation leak is occurring. It might not be in the HV battery, and a battery replacement will be a waste of money and not fix the problem. The HV battery that you have in your 2014 Prius is probably better than the refurbished battery that you purchased.

How many miles on the car?

 

What are the sub codes?

 

If you do a duck duck go search you'll notice there are sub codes.
It can mean different things.
Why would you put a used hybrid battery in to replace your used battery?

 

Do a search on this forum for P0AA6 code, and you will learn a great deal about the code and different locations in the car that the isolation leak could be occurring.

 

The isolation fault reported by P0AA6 can be in any of these areas of the car:



That's why we urge getting the INF codes before spending money on parts.

If you replace the battery and the fault wasn't there, it would have cost less to go get the INF codes read, or even buy your own scan tool to read them yourself.

If you're dead-set against reading the INF codes, you can search on this forum for the details of a little procedure involving power ON but not READY, then READY in neutral, then READY in gear, that gen 1 owners could use to narrow down the fault area. Gen 1 didn't give the later INF codes to help. You can still use that sort of procedure in a later gen if you have to. (Since later gens also have electric A/C, you'd do the whole gen 1 dance with the HVAC turned off, then also check with A/C on.)

 

If the hybrid isolation fault and leak are not in the battery they can be two other places up the line so if you're replacing the battery and it's not in the battery then you're still going to have the isolation fault no matter how good or new or expensive your new HV battery was so there's always that The dealer said there's no subcodes well if they're close to you you drive back over there and you whack the service manager upside the head and tell him look man when you run tech on the car there is a subcode and I need to have it or you're going to hook back up to my car today and we're going to get it or you can save yourself all that headache and from the comfort of your living room order an AP200 scanner and you two will have the subcode for the $64 of the scanner you just ordered or you can go do all that hoo ha with the dealer I opt to not mess with the dealer because I'm just heading over there to deal with a bunch of kids you know like literally so I try not to do that I'd rather spend the $60 and have it when I need it going forward probably be a good idea for you too.

 

In one of my cars I thought it was the air conditioner so I unplugged the air conditioner drove the car tested the car still had the fault so it wasn't there because that was easy to do I didn't have to take out any panels in the back of the car nothing then the next is the orange cables coming from the back of the car to the front and the inverter business looked at that because kind of easy to do didn't seem like it was the problem took the case off the battery and well all was revealed seems like when your battery's kind of old say 5 to 7 years plus bank on it being in the battery It seems that way how it's worked out so far here I haven't had any bad cables bad internals and inverters or bad air conditioner yet I'm fue just haven't had it

 

You can "hope" it doesn't have issues. WHY would you think it's the hybrid battery?
Why would you "nice person-sume it wouldn't have the same issues?????

You really NEED to get a code reader that is for the Prius. With out one, you're throwing
money at a problem hoping it will go away. But it is YOUR money....

P0AA6 code for a 2011 Prius at DuckDuckGo

There are many site to check out..... before you spend a lot of money on something
you might not need..

 

I have the XTool D8. It ready almost every vehicle.
But you don't "need" to get one of these, but you could certainly test everything
on the car.
I have no idea about any of the other readers, sorry. I'm certain other with chime in...

 

Yes, the Autel AP200 is white. It is a very good choice. The price is about $60 at Amazon. Please read post #37 in this thread https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

 

Yes and it's been discontinued You better buy it quick before they vanish It needs Android 12 or less so your phone with Android 14 it's not going to work or it didn't on mine I put the software on a little blue tablet BLU 8-in thing with 64 gigs of memory or some nonsense and it works wonderfully I use that tablet just to throw around with the car stuff if something happens to it and have $40 in it so there's that I wasn't willing to go back to Android 12 on my Google pixel I don't even think I can

 

Okay big guy it's like this they can't give you the subcode because they forgot it and they don't have the car there now so they're telling you there isn't a sub code because there isn't they didn't write it down when they had the car and now it's gone out of sight out of mine Do you understand that not to be ugly but you know capiche. So now your job is to try and extract a subcode like maybe buying a scanner like the AP200 or something they're cheap now You seem to be getting into problems with this car and needing all this help you might need to be able to get these codes so that people can help you with the help you need or you pay the Toyota dealer $179 every time a light comes on or whatever it is these days I mean a $63 or something too much to spend so you can get the codes in the subcodes Is that an issue? Just curious might be the best $63 you ever spend on the car right off the bat you know what I mean or then again maybe not maybe it's easier to just continue to request help and all of that I don't know me I couldn't work like that I'd have the scanner in short order at my door from the little gray truck you know and then I have my codes and subcodes all in order and then you can tell all of us or you can just look up those codes in the subcodes right here and read all about it or you can read all about all three of the subcodes that are available and pick the one you like the best if you like Not that that will be correct but at least you'll be maybe doing something I don't know.