No Heat After Multiple Tries? Gen2 07

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Mryankovic, Dec 27, 2024.

  1. Mryankovic

    Mryankovic New Member

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    Hello I'm new here, have been driving this car since 2017. Recently replaced the coolant control valve with an aftermarket model and then had the Toyota dealer do a flush and coolant change on the engine coolant system. Everything was just fine for one day and then I lost heat. Since then I have replace the coolant control valve with an oem version and immediately after I added more fluid and left the cap off the radiator to bleed, jumped the CHRS, and let it idle on maintenance mode with the cap off and the bleed screw cracked open. Still nothing. No codes anymore though. Tomorrow I am planning on jacking up the passenger side and trying the process all over again. Not confident that will help. I'm wondering if something got lodged into the heater core after my first day of functioning Heat, but I hear that this is pretty rare on Gen 2s. What else should I do?
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You should make sure your hoses are not crossed and connected correctly. It takes a while to properly bleed the coolant. Check a few hours after driving the car and make sure the radiator is full (don't do it when it's hot). You may have to fill the radiator a few times before the coolant level is full. Then check your heat and see if you have heat.
     
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  3. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    Monitor your coolant temperature and check your coolant pump, radiator for cold spots, both upper and lower radiator hoses should get warm warm to hot if circulating properly. Has the thermostat been replaced and how many miles on it?
    If you haven't been changing coolant per OEM specifications, that flush may've knocked something loose and is blocking proper coolant circulation within your system.

    Good Luck.....
     
  4. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Review these two videos and make sure you didn't skip any steps:




    I second the suggestion to check the hoses. It is possible to hook them up wrong and take part of the cooling loop out of action.
     
  5. Mryankovic

    Mryankovic New Member

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    Thank you very much. I was wondering about something getting knocked loose as well. All hoses are warm/hot though. Is flushing the heater core if it is clogged a horrible endeavor. And the thermostat is fine as the hoses are warm and it will not overheat even on the highway. Thanks either way.
     
  6. Mryankovic

    Mryankovic New Member

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    I am 99% sure the hoses are correctly reinstalled although I forgot to take a picture before hand. The top hose is the shorter one and the slightly longer one is on the middle, and the large one obviously on the bottom? No white dots on mine as they got wiped away at some point. Thanks for the reply very much appreciated.
     
  7. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Here's a diagram.

    I assume that if the engine doesn't overheat, then the water pump and drive belt are ok? Is that true?

    If one hose is warm but the second is cooler, then the heater flow is restricted - could be kinked hose, airbound, or clogged core (I don't see cloggs often on Toyotas).

    If both hoses for the heater core are warm but the heater air is cold then something might be wrong with the temperature blend door operation. Screenshot_20230323-084851.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  8. Mryankovic

    Mryankovic New Member

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    Again thank you so much for being so accommodating and posting this info, tonight I am going to find out about the heater core by checking the temp of the hoses, I just had the dealership take another look at it because I asked them for some tips and tricks and they said to bring it back in and rebled it for free because they believed they left an air pocket in, but that was not the case, they are suggesting that the heater core may have a clog, which is what I was worried about but again I also have heard that this does not happen too frequently with the Toyotas.

    But yes other than checking the heater core hoses everything else gets up to temperature eventually, the top hose on the coolant control valve is probably the least hot but it is still noticeably warm. Definitely hot coolant inside of it. I'll have to take a look at the temp blend thing tonight if I can get it back from them but I believe it's fine because I can hear it moving.

    Finally has anyone ever done a heater core flush on one of these Gen 2 Priuses? If so what is the easiest method for accessing the hoses enough to connect a garden hose for a flush? Cannot find any videos on it for this car specifically.[/QUOTE]
     
  9. Mryankovic

    Mryankovic New Member

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    What's also strange is that I am poking around right now and it seems like the air coming out of the vents is slightly warmer than outside temperature but only when the engine turns off, as soon as the engine turns on you can feel the vent drop by about 10 degrees

    Just checked heater core lines and it's very clearly warm on the right side and barely lukewarm on the left

    Can I do the garden hose flush on this type of heater core?
     
  10. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Did you check the pump that is specifically for the heater? This car has a lot of fluid pumps, there are 3 in the ICE cooling system. I agree that the car would probably overheat if the mechanically driven pump had failed, but I think that only the heat will go out if the little electric pump that moves fluid through the heater core was dead.

    Are you sure that the blend door is working?

    Presumably you can flush the heater core like any other sort of device with a fluid inlet and outlet. However, it might not be a bad idea to post flush it with distilled water before reattaching it to the coolant loop. At least if you have the same sort of incredibly hard water that we do. All those minerals might not play nicely with the Toyota coolant.
     
  11. Mryankovic

    Mryankovic New Member

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    I was hoping to flush the heater core first and then try to replace that heater pump because that was on my radar, I read somewhere else that that was somebody's problem. I'm hoping that I can flush it because you know that's almost a free option, but a genuine pump or even a knockoff is kind of expensive for what the car is worth. I just checked the blend actuator and it definitely moves the little plastic arms around when I change it from cold to hot.

    Unrelated: I've never been on a forum for maintenance advice before and I have to say I just can't believe how nice some people are to take the time to respond and help others, I hardly have the time to ask these questions so it is very much appreciated.
     
  12. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Please read this thread if you have not already done so:

    No heat - what's next? | PriusChat

    Regarding the electric pump for the heat. While that is only needed when the ICE motor isn't going (so that the belt driven water pump is inactive) it can still be the problem. If it is clogged with some foreign substance then the coolant cannot get through it. There is some suspicion that cars with the foam rubber bits in the coolant get those from a damaged thermos. The theory being that the thermos has foam between two pieces of metal, but if it is smashed in a wreck while the ICE motor is running the inner metal can be breached, foam breaks off and enters the coolant, and ends up all through the ICE cooling system.

    No heat in cabin, ended up being foam stuck in heater core pump! | PriusChat

    The other possibility is that the car at some point either had a leaky radiator or head gasket, and somebody put stop leak into it. That is a common cause for heater cores to stop working (in general, not just this car.)

    It would be odd though for either the foam rubber bits or stop leaks problems to wait 7 years after you bought the car to show up.

    In this article:

    Mastering the Gen 2 Prius Engine Cooling System - Automotive Tech Info

    they note that the 3 way valve can fail in such a way that there is no heat to the cabin. There are apparently two PIDs, one to set the position and one to read it. So with the proper hardware/software you can test the valve and verify that it is working. Techstream would be the tool most of us would use for this.
     
    #12 pasadena_commut, Dec 31, 2024 at 1:25 AM
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2024 at 1:41 AM
  13. Mryankovic

    Mryankovic New Member

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    So to recap here replaced the coolant control valve twice, after that I had a Toyota dealership bleed it and then I came back to have it rebled after not having heat after a day of driving once I got it back, that didn't do anything and tonight I just flushed the heater core and the heater pump still absolutely no difference. The car has been such a pain since this problem started I think the real solution is buying a DC 12 volt heater and seeing how many more miles I can get out of it.
     
  14. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    The best explanation of the ICE cooling system, complete with arrows to show what flows where, that I have found is here:

    How The Same Technology That Keeps Your Hot Chocolate Warm Reduces Emissions On The Second-Generation Toyota Prius - The Autopian

    In particular, this image from the article:

    picture.png
    suggests that after the car has warmed up the hose to the 3 way valve should be hot. If it isn't then something in that loop (follow the arrows) is jammed. That could be within the motor itself, near that outlet port. You have already ruled out the heater core itself. Was the motor itself ever flushed? I have lost track.

    If both hoses at the heater core are hot then there is a problem with the blend door, either something mechanical, or more likely, the actuator has failed.
     
  15. Mryankovic

    Mryankovic New Member

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    Service techs professionally flushed and bled the entire system prior to the heat stopping only days after this was completed. And prior to that I had installed an oem coolant control valve. Last night I just flushed the heater core and the heater pump no luck, still seems like the heater core hose going to the engine is not warming up. Should I do an entire reflushing of the coolant system? Although the car is still throwing the coolant control valve error code I've replaced the thing twice and paid quite a bit to get an oem model so I guarantee that is not the issue anymore. Doesn't seem to be the heater core either, and if I am correct that heater auxiliary pump shouldn't matter even if it's broken at least while you are running the engine, coolant should still flow through it, just not when the engine is not running that was the impression I was under. Thanks again.
     
  16. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Sorry this is happening. Have you tried the approach suggested here?

    No Cabin Heat After Coolant Flow Control Valve Replaced, 2008 | PriusChat

    It might not work, but at least it is an easy thing to try and you don't even have to get your hands dirty.

    Review how they did the "professional flush". Did it involve forcing fluid through the outlet at the motor that goes through a hose directly to the 3 way valve? I give even odds that the flush was just for the motor and the loop including the radiator.

    I think the most likely place for something to jam is in the loop from that outlet to the inlet at the thermostat, rather than in the motor. Not the big inlet from the radiator, the other one near it. In fact, looking at the loop, perhaps that inlet itself is jammed with something. I have not laid eyes on it personally, but I would expect that it is a much smaller opening than the one from the radiator, perhaps small enough to catch a piece of rubber or other contaminant.

    After the car has been driven for a while, and then turned off, and immediately after the thermos motor has made its racket, is the inlet hose to the thermos hot? If not then the problem is upstream from there. Probably. Wait, that logic is wrong, but it would be a helpful piece of information.
     
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  17. Mryankovic

    Mryankovic New Member

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    It was taken to a Toyota dealership to do the flush, just for the ICE. I decided to have them flush and refill after first installing that coolant control valve and everything worked fine up until the day after I got the car back. When it left toyota there was heat though. And yeah thanks for the link, I have already driven the car almost certainly gotten it up to temperature on a 40 minute drive still no heat. Maybe I could try to loosen the bleeder cap and rev it up instead of just leaving it in maint enance mode. And yes essentially all hoses will eventually get hot after a while except the hose on the left side pipe connected to the heater core. I pushed distilled water through there, through the aux heater pump and out to the hose that connect to the top of the coolant control valve. Coolant seems to flow freely, but still no heat today after my drive. All hoses hot except the left side heater core hose.