Hi! The driver's window on my 2007 won't roll up or down. The switches for all the other windows work on that door, as well as the lock/unlock button. It's just the switch for the driver's window that doesn't do anything. My mechanic says the master switch needs to be replaced. Thoughts? I can't afford $750 for an OEM master switch. Are there any decent ones on Amazon or other sites that anyone would recommend using? If the master switch was bad, wouldn't all the buttons on there not work? Also, the "Auto" light on that switch is blinking, so not sure if that indicates anything (see photo).
Realizing that has your mirrors and your locks and your safety lock lock for all the doors on that assembly and a junkyard is your friend eBay should have billions of them there should be an endless supply I wouldn't entertain more than $75 I can get them for free
maybe the window regulator/motor is just bad on the driver side, not necessarily the switch. Asking this question to the mechanic will be insulting to him (maybe?) For a DIY a quick application of 12v to the motor will verify if it's a switch problem or if you have a bidirectional scanner (xtool) it can do that check too.
I agree the solution is ebay parts but the problem could also be the driver's side motor which is more elaborate than the other doors because of jam protection in its auto up down one touch control. Another potential is the window control could need initialization since the auto light is flashing. Regardless it would be useful to know how your mechanic isolated it to the switch. If he just looked at it quickly and did not take the door apart the diagnosis could be right or could be wrong. So I might consider buying the motor assembly which is different than the other doors in addition to the master switch, both used. See three attachments.
I know this is kind of crazy, but buying the whole door might be the easiest way to go. Assuming you can find one where the paint matches. For instance, LKQ only charges around $100 for a front door. Is it the switch, is it the motor, is it some odd wiring issue? With a whole door replacement you don't care. Some places you would worry about corrosion in the door, but since the OP is in California, that isn't likely to be an issue. After the swap take the original door back to collect the core charge (only $10) at LKQ. Edit: a little more work because it is the driver's door. The lock cylinder from the original car has to be transferred to the new door.
