Gurgle, weak heater.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Marcilla Smith, Oct 11, 2024.

  1. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    2011 Prius with a 2013 motor installed 6 months ago along with new radiator and water pump.

    Motor started making the dreaded "death rattle," and I was like, "you gotta be kidding me - how can I need a head gasket already???"

    Back it went to ISH in South FL who replaced the spark plugs and cleaned the EGR. He said the spark plugs showed no signs of coolant intrusion.

    On my way back to NC, I got a "triangle of death" with "check hybrid system" when I pulled off 95 in Daytona to my cousin. Checking the codes, it seemed the water pump went so I limped it in electric to my cousin's place, where I replaced the water pump (with a new one from the dealer).

    When I got back to Raleigh and figured all was well, only to have the rattle start again! ISH had me to take the o-ring from the coolant reservoir. This stopped the rattle, which he said sounds like it is because there is too much pressure in the coolant system.

    He must be on to something, because when I've tried to bleed the coolant to stop the gurgling (from behind the dash), the coolant foams up into the reservoir :: eye roll ::

    Now, I've read could be due to a head gasket leak, so I got the kit at Autozone, and I'm to say that the liquid stayed bright blue - no exhaust.

    So is the problem as simple as air is getting into the coolant line, and if so, how do I make it stop?
     
  2. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Relieving the coolant pressure reduces coolant pushing into the cylinder as the engine cools off. It does not solve a hg leak.

    Instead combustion gasses push into the coolant but usually not continually. Because of the short term nature, typically at engine startup, the coolant gas tests don’t work. Technically there is not enough time to saturate the coolant.

    A borescope test is needed. I would go to the shop who changed your engine.
     
    #2 rjparker, Oct 11, 2024
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2024
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  3. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    I'm assuming that 2013 motor was a used motor. That's the gamble your taking when not replacing with a rebuilt motor. Since you also replaced the radiator & water pump, I'm also assuming a head gasket sealer product(s) was used on the old 2011 engine. You may also want to check the switch valve, if your car is equipped with one.
    Removing that O-ring will prevent your cooling system from pressurizing, making it more difficult to purge air bubbles out of your cooling system. This DOES NOT fix the head gasket issue - coolant seeping into the combustion chamber and hot exhaust gases pushing into your cooling system. The bad new is that it will worsen over time. Right now, as your engine warms up and expands - it's sealing the leak. That's why the exhaust gas coolant test is currently negative. As the problem worsens, that test will eventually turn positive.

    sorry for the bad news.....

    If you do a compression & leak-down test when the engine is stone cold, you'll see the leak. If you do the same test with the engine warmed up, it'll probably pass the test.
     
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  4. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    No coolant switch valve on a gen3
     
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  5. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    Thank you for the feedback!

    Ok, so Ish said he thought when the water pump went out that the motor must have overheated. So he replaced the motor again - this was 13 November when I picked it back up.

    Later that same day, I heard the gurgling behind the dash. Checking the coolant expansion tank, it appeared some coolant was coming out the top. Ish said for me to continue to drive it and let him know if there was coolant loss.

    So the next day - 14th - it turned out that there was coolant loss, so he had me pull the o-ring from the expansion tank cap to slow the loss of coolant. His speculation was that there may be a leak in the exhaust heat exchanger.

    Therefore, my next day off on the 17th, I rerouted the coolant hoses under the car to bypass the exhaust heat exchanger. I drove it for a while with no issue, so I tried adding the o-ring back to the coolant tank cap.

    The next morning - 18th - the coolant had gone down a little, but I was hoping this was from the air being purged out of the system.

    This turned out to be incorrect as I discovered the next evening of the 19th when I tried running maintenance mode for 70 mins to purge the system to end the gurgling noise which - while intermittent - continued to return. While in maintenance mode, the coolant would periodically foam out of the top, with a max temp a little north of 205F. Ish said it shouldn't go even a little past 205.

    Ish had me drop the car off on the 21st. After letting it run for a few hours, he saw the temp start to go up. Checking on the car, it seems it was a radiator fan going intermittently bad. Ish said he would have to order one, but to bring it by on the 26th and he would replace it for $275.

    So, Tues - the 26th - he made the swap. There was still concern about the heater, but he said he could only speculate on that because he doesn't work on heat or A/C. To try to be DIY, I first flushed/backflushed the heater core with water, ending with a distilled water final flush before reconnecting. I also decided to swap out the cabin air filter before heading north. By evening, I had made it to Daytona, where I spent the night.

    The car ran fine overnight, and during the day the next day (Wed, the 27th) as I was working from home (which is my Prius, if that isn't clear, already). After work, I headed north again, making it to a rest stop in Georgia to spend the night.

    Thursday (28th) I had off, so I went to the gym in the morning before heading north on 95. I made it as far as North Carolina before stopping for the evening. Sometime in the middle of the night (~1AM, I want to say?) I was awaken by return of the death rattle! I couldn't believe it at first, and thought I must be having a nightmare. So I waited for the motor to kick on again, and sure enough, it had returned. Checking the coolant level, it was slightly below the tank seam/fill line, but I had left it a little low after flushing the heater core because I wanted to first get some pink coolant. Since I had done so in the interim, I added it to little over the seam. I also removed the o-ring for the time being.

    Yesterday (Friday the 29th), I braved Black Friday at Walmart to pick up an engine air filter. The old one didn't look too dirty, but since changing the cabin air filter seemed like it might have had slight improvement on the heater, I figured it was worth gambling $20. I ran the motor for a while longer, and as it continued to have no issues, I tried adding the o-ring back. This was fine for a few hours, but then the death rattle returned, so I removed the o-ring again. Monitoring the temperatures closely last night, the temp while driving on the interstate maxed at ~200 - and this was over the course of 120 miles - and the max temp while idling was about 132 at night and 147 now that the sun is up.

    That brings me to today, Saturday the 30th, sitting at a rest stop off southbound 95 in South Carolina where I stayed the night, wondering if it's worth going back to South Florida to have Ish take another look at it.

    Before offering further speculations of my own, may I please throw myself on the mercy of my PriusChat elders and plead for guidance?
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Were any of these engine transplants gen 4?
     
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  7. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    I don't think so. The first was a 2014, IIRC. Looking back at my chats with Ish, he doesn't say the year on it, only that it was salvaged from a crashed car.
     
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  8. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Not good.

    First these engines rarely have trouble with bleeding air. Simply running it in maintenance mode with the cap off until the bubbles quit is enough. Running it without the cap o’ring is virtually the same thing except it does not allow early stage hg leaks to show symptoms.

    The best and close to guaranteed results come from a professionally rebuilt engine. Probably $3500 shipped from Hybridpit.

    Short of that, go with a legitimate JDM engine with good compression when turning by hand. This could be $1500 if picked up or $2000 shipped. A little more risk but they don’t seem to burn oil bad and are clearly different in some unknown way. Plus they claim low miles. Gen3 engines were sold and used in Japanese Prius v equivalents through 2021 so a good roll of the dice could win you a recent engine. There are reports of salvage US engines sold as JDM. All you get then is a high mile used engine sure to have repeat problems - perhaps already down due to a hg. Sometimes temporarily sealed. Look for X2ZR-W20 on the JDM engine instead of the US engine’s X2ZR-W25. The injectors should be tan rather than blue.

    Finally you could have your shop do a head gasket job and have the head rebuilt. However that is usually the same money as a JDM engine and sometimes fails due to mistakes or bad luck.
     
    #8 rjparker, Nov 30, 2024
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2024
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  9. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    So, if I follow what you're saying, the most recent motor installed on the 14th already had some problem (HG or otherwise), as indicated by the continued gurgling? Not to get too deep in the weeds, but how? Is someone selling Ish bad motors but it doesn't show up because it's too warm in South Florida for the metal to contract and open the leaks?

    And, in any event, the remedy is another motor (#4!)? Mercy! He did me real right by doing the 2nd replacement (and seems like a good guy, generally), but I don't even want to think about going to him to say something about needing a third motor!

    Maybe I'm just not built for the gen 3.

    Even though it's partially disassembled for the sake of "camper-izing" it, I'm having vivid fantasies of telling him to take the car and whatever money covers the difference and just give me an 06-09 in good working order!
     
  10. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Salvage yards sell everybody bad motors occasionally. They do some simple tests but not on a running engine. Certainly not a pressurized coolant borescope inspection. But salvage yards will usually swap for another engine.

    Everybody can be a good guy and have to do free warranty work. It’s not like he is trying to intentionally install a known bad motor. Really good mechanics can do this swap in one day.

    I am sure it did. Often when people open the cylinders and put in new or cleaned plugs the rejuvenated plugs burn through the seepage for a few days. Keeping the engine warm helps. The original owner of that engine could have put in head gasket sealer that wears off quickly with new fluid.

    Certainly your mechanic will want to investigate. I might casually tell him you don’t want hg sealer when you drop it off in person. Your call on that as he might get mad. Unfortunately Florida does not have much in the way of consumer protection laws and some shops have a no warranty on used engines escape clause. Personally I would not want another Florida used engine but that might be all you can hope for without extra cost.

    First swap spark plug egr “repair”:
     
    #10 rjparker, Nov 30, 2024
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2024
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  11. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    So, you're saying I should stay the course with my gen 3, and see about Ish honoring the warranty with a third replacement?

    But if these motor problems are this frequent on the gen 3, why shouldn't I just take this as my sign to bail?
     
  12. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    If it were me I would get it running properly and get what I paid for. Then I would sell it and get a Rav4 Hybrid.

    Your car is worth about $500 as is.
     
    #12 rjparker, Nov 30, 2024
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2024
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  13. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    Ok, but for the cost of a Gen 2, I'd be lucky to find a RAV1.
     
  14. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I don't know who ish is, but he certainly doesn't know much about the Prius.
    It's almost NEVER a good idea to get a used engine. For any car! REALLY a bad idea for
    a Prius engine. Unless you're going to rebuild it. You NEVER really know the history of the engine.

    Don't waste a trip back to the place that is riping you off! Hopefully, you paid by credit card????
    Call ish and tell them to refund your money so you can get a remanufactured engine.
    Hybrid Pit has them for $2000,00. Depending on what's included. Since you already have a new
    Toyota coolant pump, and thermostat, you won't need those on the engine.
    If "it" refused to refund your money, call the credit card company and explain they keep selling
    you bad engines and lieing to you that they are good. You'll likely get your money back.

    Air in the coolant system is from filling too fast! Fill VERY SLOWLY, about 2 cups at a time.
    You'll hear the air being pushed out. Filling fast causes air pocked. Running in maintenance mode
    is a waste of time, and not needed.

    When you get a properly built Gen 3 engine, Installed correctly, coolant installed correctly,
    you don't have these issues.

    I'm sorry you are having these issues...:oops::unsure:
     
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  15. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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  16. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA
    :LOL::LOL::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:o_Oo_Oo_Oo_O:barefoot::barefoot::barefoot:
    RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN or DRIVE DRIVE DRIVE DRIVE AS FAST AS YOU
    CAN FROM THAT PLACE!
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Try Tampa Hybrids. PriusChat member @jerrymildred worked there part time, highly recommended place.

    Home - Tampa Hybrids Inc.

    either to deal with your current Prius, or get you into one that’s vetted by them. They’re one of a handful nationwide that deal responsibly with EGR, service what they sell.
     
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  18. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    I appreciate your sympathy, and I paid by Zelle.

    Thank you for the suggestion.

    Completely rational or not, I'm feeling pretty burned out on the Gen 3, and the one I have in particular. I had problems come up with my Gen 2, sure, but nothing like this. Thinking about going back to a Gen 2 is the only thing that feels like hope right now, outside of the support I'm receiving here, and - let me reiterate - really appreciate!

    So, beyond that, it seems the consensus is that I should be done with Ish - three strikes and he's out? It would save me yet another trip to Florida, but IDK how likely I am to get any money back. Then again, losing everything spent so far is still better than chasing bad money with good, I suppose.

    But if I'm trying to avoid a trip back to Florida, is there someone y'all recommend who is closer to Raleigh, NC?

    Otherwise, here's an '07 with clean title for $3K right down the way:

    _20241201_123157.png
     
  19. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    I don't see anything good coming out of switching to an even older hybrid. Yes, the generation 2 cars were better than the generation 3 cars, but... they're both really old, and that doesn't usually bode well for future reliability.

    ...and it seems you're already distant from good hybrid repair options, even if the '07 is less likely to need them. Yet.

    Unless you're slamming massive miles onto the car (and thus capturing huge gas savings) I really think you'd do better with a simple car that any neighborhood mechanic could fix.

    Good luck either way!
     
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  20. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    It's not the miles so much as the idle time. Although, having said that, I'm also thinking about picking up more DoorDashing.

    In any event, I'm glad to see we're in agreement on the increase in reliability. Of course, if you know of a reliable option for $3k and a gallon of gas for every 45 miles or 6 hours, you've got my full attention!

    Regardless, I appreciate the well wishes :)