Passenger window switch doesn't work on driver's side window assembly

I'm hoping someone else has had a similar issue and can give me some starting points of troubleshooting this problem.

Before I describe the issue and what I've tried so far, I must say this issue happened right after a major 2-day rainstorm where the 2011 4-door Prius stayed in the driveway getting soaked (BUT not flooded).

So as the title says, the passenger window does not work from the driver's side master window assembly. All other windows work fine from the driver's side assembly. And the passenger window switch DOES work from the passenger side normally.

I assumed it was the passenger switch in the driver assembly so instead of wasting time troubleshooting wires and circuit boards and switches, I decided to replace the whole assembly with a brand new one. Well as you may have guessed this did not fix it. So I can eliminate the entire assembly on the driver side now, but now I'm stuck.

Any ideas? Is there some obvious connection points I can check for corrosion some where? Is there some simple continuity tests I can try with my multimeter on some wires or connectors?

I use the driver and passenger window quite often so I'm hoping someone can lead me down the right path. Thanks in advance!

 

Thank you so much for your reply!!!

I must admit, I'm not the best at reading/understanding schematics but I will give it my best shot. I do have some follow up questions for you.

Is it safe to assume that all connectors and motor assemblies you mentioned above and I should be looking at will be located in the driver side door? The reason I ask is because the passenger door (window switch and window motor) works great.

When you mention, "checking out connections from pin 45 on connector 3B to the LIN (pin 9) of the front RH window motor assembly." is this in the driver side door panel, or is the RH meaning "right-hand" as in location (front passenger)?

When you mention, "I'd also want to check the ground (pin1) at the motor assembly because there might be a scenario where the ground is bad from there there (to NL2 pin4), but the door switch ground is still OK.", wouldn't the ground have to be ok? If the ground was bad I would assume the window wouldn't work at all (including passenger side). Correct my logic please. . And where would I find the NL2 connector?

If I need to do any testing from the master switch assembly to a motor or connector located in the passenger door I'm not sure how I would do that with a typical multimeter (as the wires wouldn't reach that far).

I'm starting to lose confidence in myself before I even begin.

 

Yes I replaced the master window switch assembly with a brand new one. The part I am talking about is the black assembly that holds the 4 window switches, the window lock, and door lock buttons. The connector to this part looked shiny and clean inside, so I will check some other wiring harnesses in the driver door (and passenger door) once I get some time to get the door panels off.

Eddie I will do my best to check the grounds and connector pins near the motor assembly in passenger door as well and report back how that goes.

In the meantime if you or anyone else can think of anything else I should look at or try please leave a reply. I really appreciate it.

 

Did a ton of wire testing today. Everything checked out. I worked on it, testing every combination of wires for hours, but had to stop to do Thanksgiving dinner at a friend's house. Anyways, I just got home and was doing a ton a research on why the passenger window worked from the passenger switch but not from the master switch. I read in a random Mazda forum that someone had to "reprogram" their switch to make it work again. I read how to do it and decided I would go out (pitch black at night) and try it along with a few other ideas I read about.

Are you ready for this??? When I went out and started the car I noticed the LEDs on the 3 passenger switches on the master switch were blinking. I never noticed this before working in the bright sunshine during the day so they likely were always blinking. Anyways, I decided to "reprogram" my passenger switch by hold down the switch on the passenger window for 5 seconds, and then rolling the window back up holding the switch again for 5 seconds. The blinking stopped on the master switch. Sooooo, I gave the switch on the master assembly a try and guess what?!?!? The darn window went down!!!! Are you kidding me???

So it's fixed!! Yay... Only took days of research, hours of wire testing, 3 broken tabs on the window switch trim bezel, and more. BUT, I wanted to post that it was fixed, and to say thank you for your suggestions and assistance.

(now, on to try and fix my touchscreen digitizer... ugh)

 

I assume so. Who knows right? But now I know to look at the LEDs on the switches first when having window issues.

 

Trust me, if I knew about this method I would have done it before ever making the post. As mentioned, I found this solution on another forum. But wanted to put it out there so the next guy doesn't rip his door panels off too.