Wheel bearing noise, right?

constant velocity joint

how-to-tell-the-difference-between-a-bad-wheel-bearing-and-a-bad-cv-joint

 

no, just a possibility. that's why i posted the link

 

You're sure it's the passenger side? If the pitch is different/louder while making a right turn, your left tire is covering more distance, so spinning faster vs right tire turning slower...
I had a similar issue trying to find the failed front wheel bearing on my 4x4 GMC. You did do the proper procedure by checking your tire, but you needed to loosen and push back your CV shaft to find the bad bearing. As soon as I pushed back my CV shaft, it was readily apparent the bearing was failing. The pressure of the CV shaft nut is holding everything together, preventing you from finding play in the bearing hub.

Hope this helps.....

PS, shop around - any tire/alignment shop can do this job 4 much cheaper.....

 

At these kind of miles I would just be putting on new hub bearings just because of the mileage right around this mileage somewhere 240 to 300 right in there so if I got a noise and it's worth it for me to fix it that's the first thing I'm doing I have two sets of hubs loaded for the three and the generation to always on the ready loaded with TRQ bearings and a new ball joint a fixed at the bottom it's about 40 minutes aside to drop them on the car maybe at that time it's time to slide in new pads who knows can't see from here 1650 that's a good one but now the TRQ bearings I think I'm paying $90 for a set of two delivered to my door and then I already have the aluminum hubs off of two cars so I have two sets for the two generations of car loaded ready to go so it'll take you 30 more minutes aside to knock out the old screw in the new then hang it back on the car and go plus the other side If that's worth $1,650 to you then by all means it is you'll want to have a battery operated impact half inch drive gun to blast the part the nonsense You hit all those bolts one time till they're loose and then everything's hand tight from there It is really that simple man even a desk pilot can handle it get you some rubber gloves.

 

Rotate front passenger tire to the back, if noise goes to the back, it’s the tire. If noise stays up front, most likely bearing

I had similar symptoms, no play at all when car was jacked up. Cost was $450 to replace wheel bearing by local shop. I found out which part model make the shop was going to replace it with and find a fair average online price of it. Then get the shop going rate for labor cost, added the 2 and the shop agreed to my estimated total. Just do your mechanic shop repair home work, it could pay off.