Melted Headlight Connector

Put LED. Bulbs in no mo heat. No melt . My Corollas same LED and done re aim..

 

Bad connections heat up the connectors and burn out bulbs faster.

You can get a new connector and short wiring pigtail at an auto parts store or Amazon. Usually they come with crimp connectors. You cut yours out and put the new one in.

These are for H4/9003 bulbs I have used on gen2s. Get good ceramic connectors.

 

Here's a source for that connector: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lyn666-H4-Pigtail-Headlight-Socket-H4-Connector-Wiring-Harness-Female-Plug-14AWG-Ceramic-H4-9003-Pigtail-Connector-pack-of-2/1619721499?adsRedirect=true

 

Yeah I have those on my bike those are the way to go if you're keeping halogen H4 they're like old outlets from long ago

 

The ones with the push pins on the back of the spades they're made to convert from h8 and h11 and all that business and things similar. The point is though you're old connector is melted so even the brass pins or whatever they are in the connectors the metal has been heated when you pull it out you'll notice it may have lost its temper or whatever you call it doesn't hold well to the new connection usually better to cut it off and use a Scotch lock connector or similar type of connector and you're good to go for longer than the car is going to last you usually.

 

The existing harness is big and complicated. Just cut out a few inches of the existing connector and wire and crimp. Crimp is not soldering but the crimp connector could be a heat shrink butt connector with built in solder. If this seems too difficult have a shop do it.

Otherwise you are risking continued problems.

 

Loose connectors cause the heating and melting

 

^ That and placing the wrong bulbs in. Loose connections = higher resistance that generates more heat. Also those "brighter" halogen bulbs that generate a whiter light draws excessive current, something else that will fry a plastic connector.
If you want to keep the 'white light' effect, switch to large heat-sink LED bulbs. They will last longer and draw less current.

Hope this helps....

PS. that picture of ceramic connectors, while convenient, isn't going to fix your underlying problem - if those connectors are loose and waddled out. Those wires needs to be 'spliced into' the existing harness to fix your underlying problem - not just plugged into loose existing connectors..

 

Led fast blink as turn signals yes as headlights just fine I use Sylvania real mirrored bulbs in my turns . Which I never use anyway

 

IMHO; They're all cheap Chinese connectors, now-a-days - they're usually the lowest bidder when parts contracts pop up. They're like early Japanese products - they get better over time, as they perfect their chemistry and procedures.
As far as flickering is concerned, the old ones from 5-10 years ago used to do that and the problem was worse in DLR mode. They're pretty much flickeer-free now when your headlights are on - NOT DLR. I had LEDs in my 2012 Prius C, they flickered in DLR but was fine with the headlights on. I actually liked the fast flicker in DLR, more noticeable during daylight driving. The car was silver and I always had inattentive drivers trying to change lanes, on top of me. That pretty much went away with those LEDs. I was working swings at the time, so they were on 70%-80% of the times I was in the car.
You may also want to check the voltage at your connectors. A bad relay or ground will also cause flickering of LED headlamps. Halogens and incandescence bulbs doesn't care, you just get a dimmer lamp.

Hope this helps....