Prius Gen 3 2009 Engine stops after 10 Seconds

Yeah you'll find the work ups for all three of those codes here repeated about I don't know I'd guess maybe 400 times pretty much the engine won't start and so on you'll be troubleshooting this for that code at least like a regular ice engine car without the hybrid so for some reason you're not starting fuel ignition compression something but yes sir it is a pain.

 

It's not really that the engine is stopping after 10 seconds, it's that the engine is failing to start. It uses the HV battery to spin the engine for a bit and when the engine fails to 'catch' with gas it shuts itself down and throws the P3190 and the P0A0F.

The problem then becomes that the HV battery drains itself (with no way to charge) on every start attempt until it becomes a new problem which may be where you're at, if not very close.

Ultimately you'll have to find a way to charge the HV battery, then begin a typical "no start" diagnosis. It's probably difficult to find a shop with charging capabilities (or desire), so you might be up a creek. Building a charger and hooking it up isn't all that difficult, but requires a decent amount of DIY knowledge and ability. If that's not in the picture you may want to search for a hybrid specialist in your area to see if they can do it.

Do you for sure have gas? DO NOT trust the gas gauge. Are you POSITIVE you have gas?

I'm ignoring the P0A0D because that's the code for the interlock (safety connector) on the HV battery and I'm assuming you have that sorted because I don't think it would even attempt to start without that properly connected. I could be wrong.

 

For starters, stop trying to start the engine.

Was there any recent maintenance?

little things can do it, disconnected PCV hose for example.

 

Yes check you're fuel pump . See if it pumps . Maybe a few seconds then stops delivering fuel . Stops pumping etc .

 

If you weren't in Australia I'd offer to sell you my charger.

You need a Meanwell HLG-80H-C350A, you don't need most the stuff in this diagram for a basic charge. Really just the charger, D1 and R1, a digital multi-meter, and a fuse if you want to be safe. You can use "fork test lead" connectors to carefully slide the + and - into the respective battery connectors without having to mess with them. As long as you don't over-charge you don't need to worry about a fan.

As for the diagnosis, you could remove the air box (keep the MAF connected) and spray brake cleaner in the throttle body while the car attempts to start to see if it affects it. If it stays running while doing this then you know you have a fueling issue.

As Mendel suggested I would strongly consider no more attempts until you have it charged in order to avoid any damage to the HV battery. Also the charger I suggested needs a certain sitting voltage (128) to even start charging the battery, as far as I can tell.

And as always verify any advice you receive for yourself.

 

Yes I have the Venice hybrid charger It's get set on the second stage I think it's 300 volts and generally when I connect it to the battery side of the relays It rarely runs for about maybe an hour maybe two and the pack starts noticeably warming up and then by the instructions from Venice hybrid when the display on the charger makes no changes for five solid minutes remove the charger That's basically your resting charge you're going to hold to keep on pumping juice into it is just going to heat it up and do nothing I've watched this go on seems to work pretty well I've only had to do this once and it wasn't because I was keeping starting the car it was just I had a battery I wanted to charge and see what would happen The Venice charger charges at 2.4 amps on the 300 volt setting or 2400 milliamps seems to work very well but you don't want to be heating things up

 

This model at this stage of the game should be reporting something back to the computer to trigger a light or codes especially a no start condition I can't remember what the code is but it's pretty common and usually everybody here gets it very quickly if the engine's not starting so is your OBD2 port working when you plug in a scanner does it actually connect to the car is the scanner capable of reading the Prius these are things.

 

Freeze frame data capable scanner Will be your friend for this type of analysis The manual if you could put your hands on it has probably 40 pages to troubleshoot an engine no start or no run which is what you have even though it turns on for 10 seconds I don't think it's turning on I think that's just electric motor spinning the engine over and it's not starting It's not starting for 10 seconds that's the just like in your car with a starter like your Corolla when you crank the starter that's not the car starting The car starts after you let go of the key It's the same and the Prius when the motor generator spins the engine or locks up the shaft to spin the engine and make the engine go around and around and it doesn't start that means the computer didn't turn on the coils turn on the fuel something because it's not starting what's needed to start fuel spark and air

 

And most of those things in that list have their own Prius codes or own codes for the OBD2 can bus system that you're working with so there's always that so I'm wondering if there's some underlying issues with your car's computer systems or the communication system in the car between all the other systems

 

One risk if the only place you look up the trouble code is in the summary table of codes like that is you just get the naked bullet list of all things that could ever have anything to do with it, and that's a lot less help than if you flip the rest of the way to the troubleshooting section for the specific code and look at the suggested troubleshooting steps there.