I'm getting all 4 brake pads replaced, do I NEED to resurface the rotors? (pictures included)

It’s the thickness that count. Have they been measured and are still within mvehicle manufacturer specs? Frankly, if you have 203k miles in ODO you should consider replacing all rotors.

 

^ that.

Only so much you can tell by appearance. The critical measurement is remaining thickness- and ideally that should be checked in both inner and outer areas to make certain the wear is even.

Rotors are stamped with a minimum thickness indication. Sometimes you need some work with a wire brush to make that legible.


Then use the calipers to give you the real truth.

 

The go-to’s for rotor assessment are the Repair Manual specs, a micrometer (0-25 mm will do), and a dial indicator with magnetic base. You’re checking condition, thickness and runout.

That said, those look ok; it’s definitely not obligatory to do anything to the rotors when changing pads/shims.

Machining a thin layer used to be more popular, often pointless though, just thinning rotors, hastening their nearing minimum thickness. If they’re really rough/rusty/scored replacement is simpler.

There’s two threaded holes on them; you can use them to jack the rotor away from the hub if rust-glued. IIRC the thread is M8x1.25 (need to verify), and you need at least one inch threaded length.

I use Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant, for caliper pins, and Permatex Anti-Seize for pad/shim “faying surfaces”, essentially zones of contact between pad backs, shims and caliper. (Someone will likely be along soon to explain how I’m breaking some commandment with the Sil-Glyde).

there’s some gotchas with the rear brakes; one of my signature links covers it. I believe the Repair Manual brake section is also attached there.

some advocate to open the bleed screws when retracting the caliper pistons. I wouldn’t, but it is worthwhile to semi-regularly do a brake fluid replacement (believe I’ve got a link for that in my signature as well). Just leave that for another day; it’s a temperamental system.

To see aforementioned signature if you’re on a phone, turn it landscape.

Addendum: just realized your post commences with “I’m getting…”, ah well. I’ll maybe sway you to DIY. At any rate, even if pros are doing it, good to know what they’re up to.

 

IMHO and experience - You may be able to resurface the front rotors again and be just at minimum specifications. The problem with that is the thinner the rotors, the more likely they will warp on you causing vibrations and pulsations whenever activated. This in turns causes excessively more wear and tear on an already old well worn suspension. If you don't understand - another brake job in 50K miles; and possibly suspension work....
Rotors aren't really that expensive and you've gotten 200K miles out of them. The bare minimum I would do is replace both front rotors and resurface the rears. Then replace all pads, clean, inspect and/or replace sliding assembly portion of the caliber assembly. If this is a Ca car, just a good cleaning, grease, and reassembly should be all that is needed. Cars that have a lot of rust on them may require new calibers - they can be cleaned and rebuilt, but usually not worth the effort. Too time consuming.
That would be the bottom line I would give a customer and a job I would be able to warranty.

Hope this helps...

If you don't resurface the rotors, your new pads will howl, scream, screech every time you apply the brakes. Everyone will know your coming and tell you that you should have your brakes checked.

 

As with most manufactures, the rotors are thinner than they used to be.
Toyota says NOT to resurface them because they will be too thin.
Whoever turned them "might" have just removed just enough to clean them up.
Or, they probably just used sand paper to clean them up.

If the rotors are not warped, and don't have any score marks or damage from
metal on metal contact, just replacing the pads AND sanding BOTH sides of the
rotors so the pads have a clean surface to mate with.
Since the left rear rotor did have rotor to metal damage....
The smart thing to do would be replacing them. As was stated, they are not that expensive.

It will likely be many years before you need to replace them again.

 

A little hyperbolic?

 

Especially on a hybrid when 300,000 and counting is possible with original parts.

 

I have 355,xxx on my rotors.
But I'll be replacing them when I do the pads. Probably about 30,000 miles from now.

 

In my ramen college days, I just replaced pads. Those brakes squeaked for 500 miles, before they seated in and stop squeaking.

 

You could likely survive with just pads. And be easy on the brakes...
Sometimes you just need to do what you need to do.

 

^ Just editorial Well, unless you get "frisky" in the waiting room...

I've been doing brakes since our Honda days commenced in the early 'eighties. Always got the Shop Manual, got aforementioned dial indicator and micrometer. Early on I would dutifully check rotor runout out and thickness, per the book. Gradually got more lax, because they were never problematic. And never changed them.

I did have an issue with our 2010 Prius' brakes. It was my first experience with rear disk brakes, and I got caught flat-footed with the caliper piston orientation requirement, reassembled them with it misaligned (not meshing properly with the stubby pin on the pad back). About six months later I noticed scoring on the outer face of rotors. Took the calipers off again, and found severely beveled pad wear, and about 50% of the inside face of the rotors badly rusted, due to no contact with the pad.

I removed the rotors and cleaned them up with steel wool, read up up about caliper piston orientation, made dang sure I got it right and it stayed that way, installed new pads and shims, figured I was out of the woods. Went for a test drive and yeah, I could hear it, every time I touched the brakes. Drove a bit more, and by the time I got home it was subsiding, about 50% of the initial noise level. Within a week they were dead-silent again. 6 months later, I couldn't even see the scoring, what I'd first noticed on the outside face.

Checked my log, this was in August of 2014, at 46k kms. Car's currently at 102k kms, still on those same rotors and pads.

Here's a few pics of how they looked after that screw-up:

Rear brakes still binding after overhaul | PriusChat

 

It could be the same thing if its the Catholic church.

By the way is a fenatic a female fanatic?

 

or someone who's crazy for low-lying wetlands?

 

At that high mileage, I would replace the rotors with the pads. You'll easily get 100K+ out of them, the cost is very little over that stretch of time/mileage.

Some people claim they've gone 200K+ on original pads and rotors, just makes the new rotors even cheaper.

 

My thought... try an Autozone parts store (or like) that offers free "code" checking.

Report to us the code.
FWIW Perhaps the store can even include clearing the code.

New pads, but no increase in braking power... could be legit.
FWIW A brake fluid bleed/ flush, which is not necessary or in included for a quick pad change, might increase brake power feel.
Slight vibration, rotors have a slight warp...legit.

Good luck