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Prius intermittently won’t start

Discussion in 'Gen 1 Prius Plug-in 2012-2015' started by evansvillagevanguard, Oct 23, 2024.

  1. evansvillagevanguard

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2024
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    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    Vehicle:
    2014 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    We just gave our Prius to our college aged daughter, 2014 Plug-in model.

    She’s having intermittent problems starting the car. The dash lights up, but pressing the start button doesn’t light up the center display or allow you to shift into D, R, etc. Sometimes pressing and holding the start button for a long period will work to start it, sometimes not.

    Weirdly, the remaining EV charge will sometimes show 6.5mi or thereabouts when you finally can get the car to start, even if it hasn’t been charged and there should be no EV mileage left.

    Does this ring any bells? Wondering if it’s the 12v battery or some other more subtle electronic problem.

    Thanks all! First post here.
     
  2. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2021
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    Location:
    South Central PA, USA
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    III
    Yes, the first thing to do is check the 12v battery.
     
  3. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2021
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    Location:
    SacTown, Ca
    Vehicle:
    2021 Prius Prime
    Model:
    LE
    ^ That and when was the last time the FOB battery was changed. Has she tried to hold the FOB up against the start button to start while pressing it?

    Also, make sure she checks her coolant and oil levels every other fill-up. It takes 2-seconds, while the gas tank is filling. I'm sure you know those Gen3's has a propensity to pop head gaskets - doing quick checks is a good way to prevent this.

    Hope this helps....
     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
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    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    The drill:
    1. If needed, acquire a digital multimeter. Doesn't need to be too expensive, but don't completely cheap out.
    2. The morning after a day when the car's had a decent length drive, check the voltage. At the under-hood jump point is fine. (see attached for how to access)
    3. Anything over 12.7 is great, anything over 12.5 is so-so. Lower, I'd get it tested (with a proper electronic load tester, that tests Cold Cranking Amps CCA), and replaced if needed.
     

    Attached Files:

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