Still getting P0A80, removed pack, and saw corrosion I had never noticed....

Have you checked voltage difference of each battery pack?
Check control module for corrosion..

Use a voltage meter to check continuity when tracing each wire, and I have had success cleaning busbars , and also purchased replacement busbars as well.

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If you don't have the charging and discharging capability to revitalize the individual modules or however you do it then you're missing a vital step I've seen several of my battery packs run fine even with some of the copper wiring that had been heat cycle several times and was now more of a black color the ohms per foot or whatever ratings that generally apply to wire and all seem to be within reason and I have hundreds of these other wires just laying here from packs that I've disassembled in various states of age and disrepair there's a couple of wires that seem to get black these are orange that seem to turn black from the copper color they were but still work fine some even have green corrosion on the end where the angled fitting is to bolt up to the module Just light cleaning and whatnot seem to work fine it's your bus bars nuts those are critical areas they need to be clean tumbled washed reused I use an anti-corrosion spray front and back and after I torque the nuts etc every few months or at least once a year I lift the hood on the side of the battery and looking there with a flashlight and see my anti-corrosion stuff is still there things are looking good on the MFD and the energy mode and we just drive the heck out of the car Don't leave them sitting make sure somebody's going somewhere almost everyday and pretty much no problems I do not have hobby chargers in the setup to reflash or revitalize modules either My battery guy usually hands me a rack of whatever it is 28 modules squeezed up for about 400 bucks ready to go so far it's been a very reasonable deal He's a good guy and does good work.

 

I would use a capable scantool to see if there was any freezeframe data for the P0A80 - that would likely show you what block the ecu didn't like.

Otherwise, I would use Dr Prius to monitor block voltages while driving the car. If a block is "unusually" high or low compared to the rest, then you should see that as well. Then you know where to focus.

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I just installed 28 modules into my Prius today. Once I pulled the black covers off the wire attachment points I was very disappointed at how much green/blue crud was on the copper plates. Yours looks positively golden compared to what mine was. I took all the nuts off and the copper plates out of the orange holders and used a wire wheel on a grinder to brush the copper plates and nuts to like new condition. I feel this is necessary to get the best contact between all necessary electrical components. It took a few HOURS to get all the nuts and plates wire wheeled, so if you go in that direction be forewarned.

 

You have a failed cell in block 8. The other two blocks may have problems also, but fix the obvious first. And that is Block 8.

 

It takes 10 seconds to dip them in muriatic acid. It's available at any home store like lowes or home depot or hardware stores. It's also used to etch concrete prior to painting or coating. Does not affect copper, but eats everything on it.