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Single knock when accelerating from a stop, sometimes

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by LegeetSheet, Sep 27, 2024.

  1. LegeetSheet

    LegeetSheet Junior Member

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    I have a 2008 Prius with 230K miles. Recently, it has started making an inconsistent, single knock when accelerating from a stop. It sounds like it is coming from the front driver side wheel. This happens in both EV and regular modes. I brought it to Belle Tire for a free diagnosis, just to narrow things down, and they said they could not replicate the noise, but said the front end is solid.

    Both front wheel hubs were replaced within the past 10K miles, not sure if that has anything to do with it, but is probably worth mentioning.

    YouTube link (Google Drive if it works) with sound included. Ignore the turn signal.

    Note: I am not very mechanically inclined, nor do I have an access to an abundance of tools and equipment. This is simply putting my problem out there and seeing if I can further narrow it down.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    And what happens from running to a dead stop Do you get the same click possibly your sway bar end links or something like that certainly it's nothing very mission critical You can barely hear the mess so I guess in your car's been very quiet throughout its whole life you've heard no noises and this is alarming you would be my guess It's certainly not anything that I would run to worry about that's for sure Even if this sway bar and link was to break other than some mishandling it higher speeds which this car may never see. not really eventful.
     
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  3. LegeetSheet

    LegeetSheet Junior Member

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    It does not make that same noise when coming to a dead stop. Only when moving from said stop. What’s interesting is that it doesn’t happen immediately after, but at around 2-3mph. I’m certainly due for front struts/sway bar links. I’ve had a clunk from the passenger side strut, will get to it eventually.

    Also worth mentioning that I replaced the passenger side sway bar link to see if I could get rid of the clunk, which I now now is the strut, so the passenger link is still “original.”

    Is there anything else I should look at to relay to my regular mechanic? He can’t get me in until next week, so I’m trying to make sure I cover my bases and don’t end up with a catastrophic failure between now and then.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Nope that little clique would take years or a long time to become a big disaster so that's probably not going to be a thing usually what you do is take a long iron bar called a digging bar take the front wheel off on the side you're messing with slide the bar under the lower control arm You have your friend pick up and down on the bar clunk a clunk a clunka while you've got your head in the wheel well looking at the end links and the pieces to see where the clonka is coming from pretty simple now move to the other side if needed a sway bar end link actually has two links one where it connects to the sway bar and the other connects to the hole on the strut Good luck.
     
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  5. LegeetSheet

    LegeetSheet Junior Member

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    Update: still haven’t found the source of the noise, but it seems like it’s getting worse. There’s now an occasional double click in addition to the single click. Also investigated my lower ball joint, looks suspect but I don’t think that’s the culprit. New video of the noise here
     

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  6. saneesh8

    saneesh8 Junior Member

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    how is the sway bar links and bushings? Also can you press down on hood to check the strut?

    The regular 3-9 ad 6-12 checks ok?
     
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  7. LegeetSheet

    LegeetSheet Junior Member

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    Sway bar link on the driver side has a torn lower boot, I replaced the passenger side to attempt to resolve a clunk. I need new front struts eventually, a different clunk is related to this. The driver side wheel has no play whatsoever
     
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Nope that lower ball joint looks fine looks like it's filled with grease properly and everything is good in the world with it If it wasn't you'd be able to pry between the rubber boot and the taper shaft where the nut bolts on up top and you'd be able to make the ball joint rock up and down and it's seat so it would no longer be seated properly it would be able to be almost pulled off of the joint itself so that the ball would no longer be in its seat and it would make a hell of a clunking noise so I doubt any of that's going on
     
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  9. LegeetSheet

    LegeetSheet Junior Member

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    Did you listen to the updated double click noise? I am honestly so lost with this. I don't think it could be the sway bar link, and it doesn't sound consistent with a failing CV axle either. The inner and outer boot looked fine, no evidence of tearing or anything
     
  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes CV joints on this model generally don't go bad any CV joint can go bad especially if you have power and are able to tear them up hard gear shifting and what not. Not going to be much of that in the Prius generally speaking I haven't replaced any drive axles or CV joints in the four that I have here I have replaced suspension components and front hubs and bearings lower ball joints and when I do struts I put a complete strut with non-variable rate springs and new tops and everything they come assemble that way but again if you put something under the front tire when it's jacked up leave the wheel on but something between the rubber and the road and jack up on it rather smartly this will be a long iron bar about 4 to 6 ft long and while somebody stands right in the wheel well they can even put their hand on the top plate while you're lifting and dropping and lifting and dropping and lifting and dropping in your quiet so the person can listen to see if you're creating any noise if that top plate is moving or popping the person's hand on top of the strut tower will feel that every time you lift up and let down and so on there is something somewhere that is causing that noise seemingly it's in your front suspension it doesn't necessarily have to be but it sure seems like it You can wedge the pry bar also with the wheel up to grab under the lower control arm and try and shift it side to side to see if it's bushings will allow it to clunk in any direction things like that That's about all you're going to be able to do in the field at home or whatever and to be honest about it a person getting it up on the lift doesn't have a much better shot unless there's something readily wrong that you can possibly see jacking up the car on each side and getting up under the wheel and the rubber and bouncing that wheel up and down usually will create enough shock and if that noise is anywhere in that part of the system you should be able to make it happen
     
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  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Sometimes the source of noise can be misleading from inside the car and ends up on the other side.

    CV joints can go bad without tearing the boot but traditionally are louder when making turns under power.

    Usually a mechanic has heard these things before, has a lift and knows how to test joints. Just changing parts can be a waste of money.
     
  12. LegeetSheet

    LegeetSheet Junior Member

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    A follow-up on my previous thread that I posted a few months ago regarding a clicking/knocking noise coming from the front end when accelerating. This noise is now fairly consistent and appears when accelerating from a stop or decelerating to a stop once the hydraulic brakes kick in. I have not solved this as of yet. Recently, I took it to yet another shop that claimed it was due to shot lower control arm bushings. Well, I had those (along with the front struts) replaced this weekend and lo and behold, the noise is still there.

    To be fair, that front suspension work needed to be done, I thought it would be a good idea to knock out the struts with the LCAs. However, I am sick of throwing money at this thing. I already replaced the ABS actuator earlier this year, so I'm well behind in any fuel savings, lol.

    Any ideas? Everyone that I've taken this to swears the CV axles are solid. I have a (good shape) junkyard CV axle in my trunk along with a few quarts of Toyota transmission fluid. If I can't it out this week, I'm going to go ahead and have that CV axle put in, and hope for the best.
     
  13. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Annoys you're describing is usually drive axles since you got so much work going on and so deep into the car new drive axles are pretty cheap doing one at a time doing both whatever I don't know if I'd use used drive axles personally they're too cheap to be having to do the labor twice
     
  14. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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