Red triangle but good mpg

Contact Autel support? Either they tell you how to get those codes, they tell you that you cannot get those codes, or they don't answer. Two out of three you end up knowing more than you do now.

 

We know the INF codes are in the freeze frame. What we don't know is why that tool showed "no data" when you asked for the freeze frame.

 

When you did the "full scan", were many systems scanned like; Engine and ECT, Hybrid Control, Transmission Control, ABS/VSC/TRC, SRS Air Bag, Body, Air Conditioner, Hybrid Battery, Cruise Control, EMPS, Immobilizer, Gateway, Smart Key, and Power Source Control?

When you clicked on the freeze frame button, were you sitting in the car with the car "on" with the Autel AP2500 plugged into the OBD2 port?

 

The car only needs to have the ignition on (2 pushes of the start button without touching the brake pedal) for the scan tool to work. The car does not need to be in "ready." Do NOT clear the trouble codes. Clearing the codes also deletes the freeze frame data.

First, make sure the 12v battery is fully charged. Then put the car in ignition on. Then, do a full scan. Then check the trouble codes, and if you have code P0AA6 (current), look for the freeze frame data.

 

... and if that freeze frame only has an INF code 526 in it, then power the car off, without clearing anything, and try to go READY again, without clearing anything, and then (whether it went READY or just stayed at IG-ON with the triangle showing), scan for codes and get the freeze frame data again, and now there should be two INF codes.

 

In addition, reiterating ChapmanF's post (#46) above, if the only INF code is 526, do not clear codes, turn the car off, and then put the car in IG-ON again. Rescan and there should be a second INF code in the 611-614 range.

 

Depending on where the fault is, it may be necessary to try to go READY before scanning again, not just IG-ON. It matters not whether the car successfully goes READY or just lights the triangle and stays IG-ON. On no account think "I have to clear the code so it'll go READY"; that'll just defeat the purpose.

 

Correct. Autel support is probably the right channel for why you get nothing under freeze frame.

 

Are you downsizing your images or selecting some kind 'small' option when uploading your image file?

I ask because the images are so small (even if I max zoom in on them) they are not of any use.

Could I ask that you size your images so the width is around 1220 to 1440 px?

 

I don't know for sure, but I have a bad feeling that Dahvid probably uploaded that image and XenForo 'helpfully' scaled it down to a maximum height.

 

I'm not sure about that, the other image is tiny too and that is a more normal aspect ratio for a portrait screenshot.

 

If it’s your hv battery that needs replacing, there is no reliable option other than new oem modules. Used, reconditioned, matched or aftermarket will have you doing it over and over again.

The hacked Techstream is more robust with plenty of people here who know how to use it. Lower cost as well if you are ok with hacked and will do everything except ecu updates and pro locksmith functions.

As stated before, the high voltage leakage could be at your AC compressor, the inverter or any orange cable. Not exclusively at the hv battery but it is likely worn out as well.

I would be careful about calling out Boomers who invented most of this technology and are largely who you are seeking help from. To say nothing about having the time to help. Most of them can easily setup their scanners and get codes with detail. Experience counts.

 

What you are buying is the hardwired interface from the laptop to obd2 connector. They are available on Amazon and everywhere else. Most interfaces are called mini vci. They come with a driver, some have a zipped or downloaded file, usually on a cd. The hacked Techstream is a zip file and is not a typical Windows install with somewhat cryptic instructions. Most use an offline Windows xp or 7.

You can also buy a two day license from Toyota and download from them.

 

Yes, I would call Toyota the 'reliable' source. When you download from them you know you're getting the real deal, but then you have to pay for a limited-time license any time you're going to use it. The two-day licenses are definitely less money than going to the dealer for a diag. (And it works for two days, so you can spend two days figuring out your issue and running Techstream diags as many times as you need; try asking for that at a dealer.)

The copies that come sometimes included with a J2534 dongle have all been hacked in some way to make them 'forget' to check for your paid-up license. They all come from the kinds of folks who hack software like that. So 'reliable' becomes more of a fuzzy term in that realm.

If the whole Techstream/scan-tool headache is about getting INF codes for P0AA6, you could just imitate what gen 1 Prius owners had to do, since gen 1 didn't give those INF codes for you. You can still kinda do the same thing in a later gen. See this post.

 

Given how filthy that fan is it is a little surprising to me that the battery itself isn't dirtier.

Check the wires, they may need to be replaced too.

Some people buy parts here, including the plated bus bars (shouldn't corrode as fast as bare copper):

Hybrid Battery Bus Bars | ACENBAY, LLC

I have not used their products myself.