2024 PP XSE 12v aux battery warranty replacement by toyota dealership

RandyPete thank you for the update on your battery. Question: What were the circumstances that led to Toyota replacing your battery under warranty? Did your vehicle not start and you called them for a jump? My 12V drains from 12.4 after driving to 12.05 or so in 3 days. If I don't put it on a trickle charger it will drop below 12V. I had it checked out at the dealer and they said there was no problem, it was healthy. I feel it won't last the 3 year warranty period and would like to have it replaced sooner or later. Should I just let it go dead then call them for service? How did it work for you? Thanks.

 

i think there is a tsb for connected services draining the 12 volt

 

No there isn't.

 

The difference in the CCA is only because they are using different test standards—the EN test standard on the GS Yuasa (shown in parentheses next to CCA) vs. one of the many other standards on the Toyota TrueStart. They are both standard calcium flooded-cell batteries (neither is an enhanced flooded-cell battery (EFB)), and therefore, their specs and performance should be very similar, like those for any standard calcium flooded-cell battery.

Here are the different CCA standards from the Ancel BT521 LCD-display battery charger/maintainer/tester user guide.



It looks like you have a battery monitor connected. Keep monitoring it. You might want to get a Noco Genius 1 (or 2, or 5) and occasionally manually fully charge the battery.

 

Definitely get a Noco Genius 1 (or a Noco Genius 5 if you don't mind spending more money) ASAP and manually fully charge your battery. You are right that your battery voltage is way too low and you could be left stranded at any time.

 

Yeah, I wouldn't trust the SOC levels in the BM2 app. The true SOC, SOH, and SOF can only be estimated if both the voltage and current are monitored.

That's an expensive charger. The Ancel BT521 LCD-display battery charger/maintainer/tester I mentioned above also seems very nice, with an LCD display for the voltage and current as well as a lot of customization through the menus.

 

You also seem to have connected the negative terminal of your battery monitor to the chassis (to the chassis terminal of the battery sensor to be exact). So, the battery-monitor voltage will be slightly off at high currents (slightly lower when discharging and slightly higher when charging) because of the voltage-drop across the shunt resistor of the battery sensor, but then, the 1.5-mA battery-monitor current goes through the battery sensor if that matters.

 

That would result in a higher voltage accuracy at higher currents because the Ohm's-law voltage drop across the shunt resistor is not included in the battery-monitor voltage.

In my Gen 4, I had some trouble installing the U-shaped terminal on the negative side as well. What I did was to carefully bend it and then slide it under the washer instead of under the nut tightening the connector to the battery post because the nut was too small for the U-shaped terminal and it kept sliding out when I tightened it.

From your pictures, I am not exactly sure what the problem in your Gen 5 is though, as the screw is very long. However, you don't seem to have a washer under the nut, and you could have the same sliding-out problem for the U-shaped terminal.

Looking at the pictures of my car when it was new, the battery terminals were oil-free. Now, there is oil on them. Go figure how the oil got there. A dealer technician lubricated my battery terminals at service? The last three pictures are just before I replaced the OEM battery. I will post a picture of the Uplus AGM battery installed with the battery monitor at some point.

 

A 470 CCA battery is still an increase over a 285 EN one. The 285 EN is about 300 CCA.
News - CCA and EN Ratings on Car Batteries Explained– Grow Energy
https://www.roadpro.co.uk/userfiles/PDFs/product%20information/CTEK%20products/CTEK%20Conversion%20Table%20from%20DIN%20to%20CCA.pdf

 

I installed a bm2 first on the battery and then to the neg on the washer bottle screw. That monitor went up to my daughters Camry hybrid. Now I have Ancel monitors on my two cars. I think there is no measurable difference in any of it but I want all loads through the sensor because that what it is supposed to read, and you don’t want a load separate across the battery no matter how small.
A really good battery charger regimen was with the Clores.
Something seems amiss when a battery ends up over 13 volts after charging, I have one small cheap charger that did that to my truck battery, it took weeks to get back down to the usual 12.7 or so value sitting unused. It sat in absorption mode for a day or two. Same cheap but UL listed charger brings my Prime battery in the 12.7’s. Daughter has the Noco 4 amp I bought her, will be going up there this weekend and see what monitor has been reading. She puts it in on every day as battery is in the trunk, no hood to be popping. Maybe she doesn’t need to do that every day. I told her it is good to keep a battery of this type fully charged.

 

Hmm, I wonder why the GS Yuasa CCA is that low then. Cheapo OEM battery?

There is really no relationship between the CCA and reserve capacity (RC) or 20-hour Ah capacity.

There are conversion tables from RC in minutes to 20-hour Ah capacity; however, it is not an exact conversion, as different batteries will map differently because the two tests are carried out with different current draws, the RC test typically using a current more than ten times higher as the much slower-drain 20-hour Ah test.

That said, the 20-hour Ah capacity of the ToyotaStart H4 seems quite low, corresponding to about 40–44 Ah according to the 74-minute RC given on the label. So, its 20-hour Ah capacity is no higher than the GS Yuasa and possibly lower. But then, a cheapo OEM battery again. In comparison, most EN LN1 batteries, including the Uplus AGM I installed, have a standard 50-Ah 20-hour capacity and a standard 80-minute RC. Walmart EverStart Maxx 140R claims a 95-minute RC. AGM batteries will have a higher CCA than flooded- and enhanced flooded-cell batteries for a given battery group size.

Here is the ACDelco battery-specification chart where you can look up the RC and 20-hour Ah values:

https://www.dstgateway.com/ACDelcoDocuments/BatterySpecifications.pdf

 

I am still not convinced that the 295 and 285 CCA (EN) values on the OEM GS Yuasa Gen 4 and Gen 5 batteries, respectively, are correct. Even for a cheapo battery, they sound way too low.

Perhaps they accidentally used the DIN CCA standard, which is less than 2/3 of the SAE CCA and ended up mislabeling it, and then it would make sense. In fact, according to the conversion formula given by GS Yuasa, 470 CCA (SAE) is equal to (470−40)×0.66 = 284 CCA (DIN), the latter of which is exactly what is on the GS Yuasa label.

Here is the conversion information from GS Yuasa. There are actually two EN CCA standards as well—EN1 CCA and EN2 CCA.

Guide to understanding battery specifications—GS Yuasa