HV Battery temperature

Why are you clearing the trouble codes without reading them. The trouble codes will tell you the problem that the car is seeing.

 

Since you can figure out how to clear them you should be able to figure out how to read them with a capable scan tool then that light bulb might go off and burn brightly how do you know your battery is getting hot who told you that? Or what determine that? The energy monitor on your multifunction display when you're driving the car how fast does it change from blue to green and back to red magenta and then back to blue and then back to green and maybe back to blue and not even see the magenta because you're driving how fast does that display changing? Do you hear the fan in the right rear quarter panel running like crazy You stop at a stoplight you hear a fan behind you running on near full tilt? No then probably not an overheating problem Why would you think it was a battery overheating problem Is it warmer in the car I mean just got to be a reason we're talking about temperatures because it's hot outside You don't drive around when it's 100° out with your air conditioning on and the windows rolled up that's the air the battery fan is sucking across the battery and then blowing it out the right rear quarter.

 

100°F is barely "luke-warm". I personally can't hear the fan operate until it reaches speed 3 at about 125°F. You need to be able to check the Hybrid Control and High Voltage Battery ecu's for codes (either when the warning lights come on, or before clearing codes.)

What scantool device-app are you using?

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Not reading codes and jumping to a temperature problem is a bit of a leap, but don't forget there are two ends of a car............one end has an HV battery and the other has an inverter.......

As for this.....

When the warning lights came on I read the data and its on Fan Mode 2 with a battery temperature of 38C/100F. Does this sound about right for the battery temperature warning to trip?

No, no it doesn't....that actually sounds nice and cool.

 

What scan tool/app are you using to read the trouble codes?

My guess is that the scan tool that you are using is not capable of reading all the trouble codes, and there are other codes that have been triggered that you are not able to read with your scan tool.

See post #4 about the ECUs that need to be read by your scan tool.

 

ok, so you didn't recognize the hint about the inverter being on the other end of the car. Search P0A93, it's a relatively common failure of the inverter cooling water system, usually the electric pump located behind the driver headlight. Again, just guesswork without a code, but some guesses are more likely than others just due to experience. But, if you're accurate in that the car continues driving completely normal even after the alarms come in, maybe not a temperature issue, at least not the battery or inverter. Engine?.

 

So, P3000 is set by the hybrid vehicle control ecu & basically means, "the HV battery ecu says it's got a problem" (in most cases).

P0A85 is set in the HV battery ecu when it tries to control the battery fan, and the ecu doesn't see the correct (-) side voltage on the VM circuit. (for different "x"% signal to the fan controller should yield a different voltage on VM).

The thing is, the code won't set at all until the ecu senses the pack temperature go up enough that it TRIES to turn the fan on. So yes, it is "temperature related".

Have you confirmed that the fan actually runs (blows air)?

My first "go to" test for this is to check the white connector behind the fan ducting in the right side of the cargo area - behind the interior body panel.

Water leaks in from cracked body seam sealer around the tailgate. It then dribbles onto that connector and corrodes the terminals.

3 of the wires are for the fan, the 4th is for the engine fuel pump. Most here just splice the wires to eliminate the connector (& also seal the leaky seams).

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The fan does not work constantly. It turns on when needed.
You can turn it on forcibly using the program on the phone and the connected adapter for OBDII

 

I think that's the wrong connector with that black tape on it doesn't look right The one you should be looking at is a little further up and it will not be taped and usually when you pull it apart the part that stays in the car is where you see most of the nonsense green corrosion a little bit of brown that sort of thing turn that plug around the part that stays in the car and look at the back of it might look similar sometimes the part that you unplug and comes out of the car or goes to the device and the ductwork or wherever it goes will have the green and brown corrosion on it too I've been lucky and been able to clean mine up plug them back up then waterproof the connection and it's done I haven't sealed any glued seams or anything like that I don't see any leaking to be honest with you I try with a garden hose running down over the seal on the hatch for an hour Don't see any water so I just wrapped the connector If I didn't have to jump it or do anything with it after cleaning with zip tape and seal it up permanently I have four of these cars they're all sealed up none of them are taking on water when I bought them many of them had water in the battery tray water in the spare tire well but nothing seriously standing just moisture once all the plugs are pushed out of the rear area now water will pass through it doesn't stay and visit so no terrarium effects or anything business.

 

in answer to your newer post, the air is draen from the cabin through the grille on the rear passenger side, through the fan and over the battery, then out through the 12 volt area.