Hybrid Battery Replacement

Ideally you'd like to have a new Panasonic EV battery of the same chemistry and makeup as you have in the car right now That's what came in the car If you can make that happen that's the most satisfying end to this game I have a friend who does the $600 battery thing to except I only pay like four and some change and I've had no problems but when you do that you are only looking at about 24 months of decent use and then you'll be back to the problem again then it's another $600 in your case and now you have $1,200 in 48 months approximately for the 1650 or whatever for the new battery cash and carry usually you get 8 years unless something really bad happens and it's not normal in any generation too for that bad to happen that's extremely rare so don't be looking for it You have to read through pages and pages to find one or two generation 2's that have had to go through any trifling nonsense It's usually very straightforward stuff. I would say if you can't make the Panasonic new battery happen then bite the bullet and go with your buddy's buddy for the $600 at least you have an inside track you'll get to know something and so on.

 

Local dealership here in North Dallas, it is $1640.58. Roughly $1800
G9510-47033 - Battery Assembly Hev Su Longo Toyota Of Prosper Parts

 

If i have to do it on mine, i will also go this route. Genuine Toyota. Not the aftermarket / reconditioned. Clean the fan when you are there.

 

new toyota battery is your best bet if you're planning to keep it. refurbished if you're selling.

the install isn't hard, but it takes serious research and caution around a high voltage item.

lots of you tube guides and threads here.

 

It's a really easy install too other than removing the interior panels in the trunk which is two screws and pull and putting that stuff out of the way where you're not crushing it removing the brackets on top of the battery and the bolts on the very back of the battery against the seat back I leave those out when I put the battery back in because I know I'm going to be taking it out again I keep cars that long I even trim the brackets to make the battery removal much faster the second time around on and on and on most folks don't need to mess with this but it's an easy swap there's nothing to it even picking the battery up put it on a piece of flat plywood and stick it in the trunk and you can maneuver it around and swing it right in like a bad parking job no problem I'm not that big of a guy I weigh like 137 lb or something soaking wet and it's not a problem for me and I don't do any weight lifting

 

Note, while moving all the pieces from the old battery to the new, and taking apart and reassembling the interior can easily be done by one person, it is a good idea to have another (reasonably strong) person to help when moving the HV battery. Both when it is in its big shipping box and when wrestling it in or out of the car.

 

Car: 2008 Prius - 150k miles

Problem: It seems like your Prius is showing common signs of hybrid battery wear and tear, especially considering its age and mileage. The drop in MPG, the hard down-shift, and the "triangle of death" warning suggest that the hybrid battery is no longer working as well as it should. The uneven voltage between the battery blocks, especially the issue with Block 8, confirms that the battery is struggling.

Possible Solutions:

1. Facebook Marketplace Option: This is the cheapest option, and since your friend had a good experience, it might be worth a try. However, there are some risks. The quality of the replacement battery might not be great, and it may not last long. If you choose this option, make sure the installer offers some kind of warranty.
   
   
2. Toyota Dealership Option: The dealership option is the most dependable, but it's also the most expensive. A new battery from Toyota will give you peace of mind and probably last as long as your original battery did. But the labor cost is very high. If you're not comfortable spending that much, this might not be the best choice.
   
   
3. Reconditioned Batteries: Reconditioned batteries are a middle ground. They are cheaper than a new battery but may not last as long. The prices you've found online seem fair, but it's important to buy from a reliable source that offers a warranty. If you're confident in your skills, you could install the battery yourself, but think about getting someone experienced to do it if you find a better deal than the dealership.
   

My Recommendation: Since your Prius has only 150k miles and is in good shape otherwise, it’s worth investing in a good replacement battery. If you can afford it, a new battery from Aloy Hybrid Battery will be the most reliable and last the longest. However, if you want to save some money and don't mind a bit of risk, a reconditioned battery from a trusted source could be a good option. Just keep in mind the possible future costs if the reconditioned battery doesn’t last as long as you’d like.

In the end, it’s about finding the right balance between cost, reliability, and how long you plan to keep the car. No matter which option you choose, your Prius should have plenty of life left with a properly working battery.

 

if you do, please let us know the cost. some are reporting that prices recently doubled

 

Yes you have to move the front end of the battery tray off your core before you turn it in hopefully so that you will have that to put on the new rack of modules that you just purchased with the case cover and you'll add the wiring pieces and push the wire through the sensor the white thing and all that stuff attach the ground strap below the computer and just tighten all those bolts no real torque specs are too crazy there and then you're off and running but yeah they don't tell you that but people here have mentioned it I've been through this twice I usually have a rack of modules ready to go as a core and a case cover that's clean with the label showing and the front ends I have put away in the shop.

 

Sounds like you got a pretty good deal on the East Coast in New Jersey given the fact that it looks like these things are getting marked up to three grand at some dealers apparently I haven't seen that down here in North Carolina but that doesn't mean much.

 

By default, the internal resistance of a pair of modules is 19 milliOhms.
When charging and discharging the battery, the high-voltage battery control unit recalculates the internal resistance and records new values.
There is nothing critical if there are minor deviations like 1-2 milliohms between pairs of modules. This does not raise an error.
As models age, the internal resistance increases, but do not worry until it becomes more than 30 milliohms.

 

Sounds like you put it together like you're supposed to is really only one way everything can go so I'm not talking about the temperature sensing wire those are already sitting all laid out when you plug everything to the front end the HV computer with the red or black label the two relays that whole front end usually you undo and transfer to the new battery tray you receiving with the new rack of modules but anyway no matter sounds like everything is good and you got a decent price so you should be good to go for a minute