Brake bleeding problem

Sometimes this happens You got to make sure if you haven't looked at the factory manual dialogue there's all kinds of things the parking brake has to be down and so on and so forth I don't know whether the aultel system gives you those primers at the beginning of each step or the start of the system whatever so you may need to check that usually when you get that message you haven't done something that needs to be done before you start the whole business.

 

Did you buy a new OEM brake pump and actuator or used parts?

 

They probably should be brand new I guess that they look like it I see an orange light on your scanner I'm assuming that's not the VCI light I'm assuming you have the VCI light and check mark is green indicating there's communication does your VCI cable or plug not flash green when data's moving or something like that? But there are things that have to be done to the vehicle before all of this works the parking brake has to be down you want to be not ready but in ACC or whatever it is with all the lights on whatever it tells you in the factory manual Chapman or somebody will pop it up here for you in a few minutes and if you don't do all that then highly likely it won't work but I'm thinking that when I had this problem because the parking brake wasn't depressed or something like that it didn't talk about communication problems I don't think but it might have I very quickly figured out that my parking brake wasn't down.

 

The orange light on the scanner is tire-warning-shaped, decorated to suggest radio waves. I wonder if this scan tool is one of those you can also use to read your tire pressure sensors.

 

There is a button above the brake pedal that controls the brake lights. When the pedal is released it comes all the way up and pushes the button, and the brake lights are off. When you brake, the pedal moves down away from the button and the lights are on.

If the released pedal isn't coming up high enough to push the button and turn the lights off, something needs to be adjusted. I'll mention the adjustments in reverse order of likelihood (you'll see why).

1. (last resort) The button itself is adjustable if needed. You never touched it, so it shouldn't be needed, so only touch this if the steps below haven't fixed the problem.
2. The brake pedal height when released is adjustable, using the clevis on the cylinder pushrod. The pedal height should be adjusted to the measurement in the drawing below. But only touch this clevis if the step below hasn't fixed the problem.
3. (First thing to do) Recheck how you mounted the new unit to the firewall. Make sure it is not cockeyed, nothing is stuck in between, holding it away from the firewall. If it came with a gasket to go between the unit and the firewall, make sure the old gasket isn't still stuck on the firewall too.

Only if you are absolutely sure that the unit is mounted flat down on the firewall where it belongs, then measure the released pedal height as shown in this drawing, and if it isn't right, make it right as described in this post.

Note the measurement is from the bare metal floor, so the carpet has to be folded back.



Only if you have measured the pedal height and you're sure you've made it correct, and it still isn't pushing the button to turn off the brake lights (this is darned unlikely), then you would adjust the button itself.

 

Yes I think this a u t e l scanner It's a 906 or something like that is based upon their TPMS software also so it can program there a u t e l TPMS sensors as well as generally strike up relearns and all that with other sensors on various makes and models of cars this series of scanner comes this way It seems like they're touting the TPMS part of the whole scanner more than they are code reading and maintenance which you have to be careful with this brand they make models of each series for homeowner DI wires and then the $4,000 model for the shop with all the plugs and the case and all the nonsense that goes with it.

 

How much would dealership charge for this? I know, in-for-a-penny, but if it's an hour's labour and you're on your way?

 

This is a generation 3 right so there are two parts You're replacing just one of the parts what they're going to tell you is the part that you can't mess with is failed and you should be replacing that too more than likely unless that piece contains the part you're trying to calibrate in it I don't know what part has what in it in my generation to the linear valve offset doodad I think is in the one and only break actuator that we have in your car they've split this up I'm sure for monetary reasons that's usually what it's always about I would love to see if that winds up being the answer they should be able to tell you if you tell them the real story I came and I bought the one part because I heard hissing whatever Don't try to sneak in any or leave out anything on purpose you know what I mean Right And then see if the guy immediately comes out of his mouth with oh well that's because this part that has the actual piece in it that you're trying to calibrate is still in the car and now this piece when you add it or whatever the story might be they may not even charge you for that if you go over there and talk to somebody in front of them you'd be surprised catch a tech on lunch offer to buy him lunch whatever I'm sure maybe the factory manual for this model might talk about some of this I'm sure the section is very lengthy

 

You have C1451, the code that locks out the system from operating until you complete the bleed procedure with a suitable scan tool. That leaves you pretty much one choice for the next step to take.

The other steps should work better after that.

 

I hope you are returning it. And if they won't take it, call your credit card...
They will stop payment on it.
I hope the correct part will resolve the issue.