How long will prius crank if no start is detected?

Swapped a replacement engine. I think the hybrid battery might be low.
Go to start it, all I get is a clunk and nothing. Won't even turn over.
If the engine had been sitting a while, could it need rotated by hand to free anything up?
I've asked 2 dealers how much it would cost to have the hybrid battery charged, but they all keep telling me "the 12v battery starts the car" which isn't correct.
So my question is, say you took the injectors and plugs out, how long would it try to rotate it before stopping?

 

So there was a cylinder stuck. I got it freed.

But have another issue...I think the hybrid battery ran out.

Oddly, when you go to start it after reconnecting the 12v, it shows full bars, then within 5 seconds floats down to 1 bar.

It ran about 2 seconds then stopped.

Other odd thing, the ready light flashes.

I'm going to hook up my bluetooth scan tool later and see what's up/

 

Now what?
Is it going into some kind of failsafe mode?

Seems to be stuck to the 1 low voltage module.
The others look good, so it appears to be affecting the SOC.

 

A couple codes related to the throttle position sensor, I'm not sure if I hooked it back up right, could that cause an issue?

 

Before it starts, I hear the throttle moving back and forth a lot. i think when I took the cover off, I didn't align the sensor to the throttle correctly.

 

Had the engine rebuilt, due to a divorce the car sat for a year, but had a tarp over the engine (spark plugs installed) as well as the hood shut.

Somehow a small amount of water got in a cylinder. There was rust stains on the spark plug, but only a couple tiny rust spots on the plug threads.

Put some seafoam down it and let it sit 4 hours, it came loose.

 

Well I foolishly thought I could rebuild it cheaper than buying a JDM low mileage one for $1,600 on eBay (they are now only $1,100-$1,300)

Ended up costing me around $1,800 all in. Engine machine shops are about double in price what they were 15ish years ago. Was $400 just to have the head done and another $300 to have the block cleaned and ball honed (plated cylinder walls are too hard to pad hone).

I also bought another core engine for $200 to have extra parts including the little valve lifter buckets.

I had to put it all back together myself, reseal all the mating surface (timing chain cover, middle oil pan), and check all the valve clearances, all which was a giant pain in the nice person. There is very little wiggle room on your valve clearances, 4/1000 of an inch, the same thickness as a sheet of printer paper. Then the mating surfaces...took 2 tubes of gasket maker. The bead has to be a certain thickness and width in different areas.

You also have a flywheel damper plate that has to be precisely center to the input spline of the crankshaft. I'm not sure why there are no centering pins on that part.