Need help-pump -pump not running during ABS bleed

I have a new pump and actuator installed. 2 weeks ago, I bled brakes the old school way. I had no scanner. Now I have T S and when I bleed the front brakes, the pump does not run and fluid comes out slowly. And when I opened the valve on the stroke simulator, no fluid came out and no air and the pump does not run. The other end of the hose is submersed and there were no air bubbles. I am doing this alone and use a 2x4 to hold down the petal after I pump the brakes.
What am I doing wrong?

 

I did get "lost communications" 2 times. But, does the T S tell the pump to run or does T S only tell me the steps (one way communications) for this step? I have a battery charger on the 12 volt battery. Maybe I have a crappy cable.
And I read a post where someone said that without fluid in the stroke simutator, it could be damanged if I drive the car much. I have driven no mire than 25 miles.

 

I am running T S ver 12-20-024 which is old. Should I try another version if I can find it and able to set it up?
My brake codes are C1203, C1336, C1345, and C1451. My battery voltahe has stayed over 12.0 volts.
I have seen others post the same problem, but with no direct answers. I will keep looking.

 

Interesting.
I have read posts where they needed to try several times before anything came out of the the stroke simulator. I will try tomorrow before it gets too hot.
Others post that a cheap cable is will give trouble, but they point to ones costing $500 or more. I have a $30 cable.

 

This A.M. I got the same results, except after I pumped up the brakes good, a beeper sounded. $169 does not sound bad if I was sure that it would fix my brakes. Maybe I am doing something wrong or maybe there is something else wrong with my car, my software setup or my laptop. The dealer said if nothing else is wrong with my car, they will bleed everything for $165 (one hour) On Amazon, prices range from $25 to $93 and all look the same. They include a CD with the program. I found one for $55 without the T S program and I ordered it. It looks like all the others. Maybe I will be lucky.
I don't know why the alarm beeper went off. Maybe that is a clue to fixing my brakes.

 

XHORSE MVCI PRO J2534 Vehicle Diagnostic Prog-ram Cable XDMVJ0 Replace
I found this on ebay. They claim "Stable and smooth" . I ordered it, also. It lookes different from the others. (black outer insulation) I will return whichever one(s) do not work.
This A.M., on my first try, a small amount of fluid came out slowly out of the stroke simulator. And sinse then, my brake petal goes down much farther. I guess that is why I am told to re-bleed the front brakes. I has been more than 30 minutes (several hours)

 

I just tried to bleed the front brakes. I think I got some air bubbles, but the petal still goes too far down. I probably need to start all over and bleed all 4. After I get one of my new cables, I will do that.
Thank you for your help.

 

My Toyota dealer said he can do it in one hour ($165). I think that after the brakes, everything else will be fine for now. I plan to give 2 (high quality????) cables a try. I can send them back. Both sellers ask for me to contact them if I have problems. Neither include software. One is $55 and one is $79.
I am wondering why my cable will read codes, but loses connection during the stroke simulator step. Perhaps this translates the cable has one-way communications. The cheap cable will read from the car but not send commands to the car.
I received the $55 cable this evening. I will test tomorrow.

 

I tested the $55 cable (no software) and it did not work as well as the original cable (cable#1) that I bought for only $30. So, now, I will wait for the ebay cable ($79) and hope that it will work. It might arrive 7-8-2024.
My cable #1 remembers the year of my car cable #2 does not. Cable #2 takes 4.5 minutes to connect. #1 is much faster. Cable #1 reports "Lost communications with the vehicle." Cable #2 reports "Selected system is not responding or not available".
I am a little gun-shy about contacting the cable vendor.
The ih8mud website did my laptop setup with drivers and things. I wonder if newer 18.XX-XX will work better.

 

Cable #2 ad

 

For some reason, my post is missing where I wrote that the above ad is from cable #2 vendor.
And, I ordered a new 40 amp fuse for my A C. ($31) It came in from Cheaperst Factory Parts and the fuse was blown when it arrived per my multimeter. (ohm-meter) I am trying to get a refund, but am getting resistance.

 

They just gave me a $25.48 refund. That is close evough. I am happy.