P3020 after battery work- Mod 10 service plug disconnect?

I wanted to verify if my hybrid battery was replaced with NEW. Believe in "Trust but verify".

This is the next project. Hopefully I can tackle this in 2 weeks. Will be getting a new part likely from olathetoyota. Have to figure where to do the labor. Absolutely need person with gen 2 Prius ABS pump replacement experience

 

A hate to be a master of the obvious but if you need alternative shops tell us where you are…

Also it’s bad form to post your comment inside someone else’s quote. Most won’t even realize it’s there.

 

No sorry. This is the newest label, and I haven't found any information to decode it if it even contains the manufacture date.

The Toyota label has 240118 printed on it. This may be 24 Jan 2018 but it also be 18 Jan 2024. Do either of these make more sense than the other?

The 24 you see is likely not a year code. The 47031 that forms the '4' you are looking at is the first number of the second half of the part number - G9510-47031

It is possible that the first 7 digits (0F2PA42) may contain date information but I don't know the decode at present.

He is in Las Vegas, NV according to his location in his bio.

 

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It's a toyota dealership. Highly likely it's a NEW battery. I have had some bad incidents at local mechanic shops here which is the reason I like to verify.
I went in with a quote to replace hybrid battery.
On the flip side, I probably may not have needed a replacement..it probably could have been just some wires going bad...overheating and possibly dirt. I only got p3000 p3020(i did not get p0A80). In searching this forum, one guy who had this had to just replace the wires.
This is probably what happened

Cabin air filter was super dirty. Caused the blower motor to run sometimes and sometimes not. The day before I got red triangle, I remember I had turned on AC for several mins (partly when i was parked) and it was not coming on because of dirt in blower motor. This may have overheated H battery and then the H battery fan almost started continuously blowing.
The times when AC won't start for several mins, I stop the car remove the cabin air filter and manually give that blower a few rotations. Then I start the car, magically the AC starts immediately .
Have replaced the filter. Will be replacing blower assembly next week.

 

So replaced the ABS pump at the Toyota dealership for a hefty price.
Pump no longer buzzes every 10 secs .
However , when I brake , most of the times, I hear the pump buzz (much fainter than before). Is this normal ?
It's been only a week. They did the brake bleeding as well.

 

On my car, the pump will run about every 2-3 stops (brake pedal depressions). Depends on how hard I press on it.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

AFTER with NEW Part:
I noticed if I press brakes partially( deceleration), I don't hear the chirping.
But if I press it completely, I almost always hear it. And if I have pressed the brakes for say 30 secs and am waiting in an intersection , I hear it twice. And sometimes I also hear it soon after I release brakes.
The chirping is much fainter than before with the old part.


BEFORE with OLD part:
Before it was every 10 secs continuous irrespective of pressing brakes or not. And would chirp when I open the driver door even without car started.
Chirping was much louder then

 

brake "chirping" is due to air bubbles in the small fluid passages in the ABS system. It can sometimes be fixed by a well done brake bleed. That worked for me in my 2004 Prius.

JeffD

 

Thank you. Is there any issue if I just ignore this chirping when braking ? Can this (air bubble in brake fluid) cause any problem in future ?

 

Your brakes are a critical safety item. Have the brakes bled as it is not an expensive procedure. If the chip remains, you have to look at the ABS manifold for leaks. I would not let the "chirp" remain in my car/

JeffD

 

Dealership says it is not due to brake bleeding. They said the repair manual states that chirp may exist if resistor is also not replaced with the actuator. The online dealership where I bought this OEM part did not send the resistor. I'll not bother much. Brakes working fine. No abs code .

 

I would ask them to show where the repair manual says that.

The resistor is an electrical part whose only job is to make the 'low' speed of the brake pump quieter. The only different sounds you could get from the wrong resistor would be different pump sounds.

 

After replacing the ABS pump(resister is still old) with brand new OEM, there is no more code c1246.
No more loud chirps every 10 secs(irrespective of braking).

However, now I hear faint chirp every time I fully press brake pedal & sometimes when I release brakes pedal. If I partially press brake pedal I may not hear it.

Dealership thinks it's not due to air bubbles. (I still think that maybe the case. What do you think?).
They gave me the above reason. They said if I bought the part from them it would have come with resistor (though their price is $600 more). I got this part at Toyota online dealership for $1300 incl taxes.

What would you do ?

 

Depends on what you mean by 'chirp'. Most of us do not use 'chirp' to talk about the sound of the pump, but more like 'rattlesnake' or 'joy buzzer'.

When most on PriusChat say 'chirp' (or 'honk' or 'quack' or 'bark') it seems to be the sound of some valve in the actuator being played like a saxophone reed when fluid with bubbles passes through it. Sometimes the bleed procedure will get the bubbles out. (There can be a couple explanations for how bubbles got there.)

The brake pump resistor can only make a (probably very small) difference in how the pump sounds. It's not going to make any difference in how bubble-driven saxophone honking sounds.

 

Listen to the last 5 secs in the vid link. That's the faint sound I now get (after putting in new $1300 abs pump) only when I fully press brakes(90% of the time) & sometimes when I release brakes. Now tell me if i
1. Should replace old resistor with new
2. Or ask dealership to bleed brakes again
3. Do nothing

If 1) where can I get a new oem resistor. Pls provide a link if you have one. You know the cost ?

https://youtube.com/shorts/Apfda0nLN5E?feature=share

 

There are multiple sounds in your video clip.

One sound right at the end of the clip is the sound of the pump running. That is the steady sound like a joy-buzzer or rattlesnake that lasts for about 1¼ second at the end of the clip. I assume that sound is not the sound you mean by 'chirp' (as it would be strange to speak of a 1¼-second 'chirp').

The sound of the pump running is of no concern. The pump is meant to be there, and meant to occasionally run, and there seems nothing unusual about its sound in your clip.

Also near the end of the clip, just before the pump sound starts, I hear a quick sound I might describe as a 'squirt'. A person might also say 'chirp'. If that is the sound you mean, it may indicate the presence of bubbles inside the actuator. If that sound concerns you, the air-bleed procedure may help.

 

You can ignore other noise(that's just due to my bad recording)
Yes, I am talking about 2 to 3 secs(?) pump running sound that starts around the 6 sec mark. Now this sound comes on 90% of the time I fully press brakes. Partial pressing of brakes - I don't get it. I also hear it a lot of the times when I release brakes pedal.
Are you saying getting this sound is ok?

Now before the abs replacement this same pump sound was much much louder and it would come every 10 secs (no need to press brakes to hear it). It would come on even when I just open the door without the car started.

 

In your old unit, the pump was running every 10 seconds even when you never used any brake fluid. That indicated an obvious problem.

In your new unit, the pump runs occasionally, depending on how much brake fluid you actually use. That is in fact what it is meant to do.

 

I see. So when I fully press brakes, pump almost always (more like 90% -not occasionally) runs which you're saying is ok ?
Lot of the times (but not all the time), I also hear this pump sound when I release brakes.

 

You need to take the car back to the dealership that replaced the brake actuator, and tell them you concerns and ask them to bleed the brakes again.