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06 Prius: Dash black; wont power down; Rev/slug HELP

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by LezlieS21, Jun 20, 2024.

  1. LezlieS21

    LezlieS21 New Member

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    Hey guys,

    the other day, pulling out of a parking lot, proceeding to accelarate, my car was so sluggish, it wouldn't go, then revved super high suddenly. It drove sluggish but managed to get home (no check engine lights). To go home there are several hills that help me collect battery. It didn't. I had no A/C on or lights either to suck extra.

    Earlier that day my dash went dark, but 4 hours later, back running fine and that is when i was out/about and left the parking lot when the above happened. I took it home. (dash going dark has happened 4 times total, 2 times recently in 24 hours, other 2 within 1 mth ago).

    I decided to take it to my Toyota dealership to get their diagnostic look at it. I left it over night. When I tried to turn my car off (at the dealership) it wouldn't. I had to do a hard shut down (think laptops) and hold the power off button. Today I just received a call and he said what they know is "bad" is the instrument cluster (saying that is responsible for dash issues). I asked well what about the surging and or the lack of powering down? He said nothing was wrong with the batteries (but I didn't fully believe him). He said the car is working fine now so its hard to know what was happening. Well duh, but you are the mechanic!?! So they asked to leave it with them so they can take it and drive it around to see if they can get it to replicate. That is where I am at. **I did ask if the instrument cluster would cause it to rev or not power down and he said, "I'm not sure, possibly". (rev/surg has never happened before) (power down has happened twice now)

    Off the hip, what are your thoughts about these symptoms? Would you ask them to check both batteries again before you pick them up? I probably will NOT get them to do the work as I know dealerships overcharge heavily, but I took it to them for diagnosing due to their testing machines.
    Thank you!
     
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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how many miles on her?

    did they replace the instrument cluster?
     
  3. LezlieS21

    LezlieS21 New Member

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    No, not yet, I didn't authorize and he agreed to keep it overnight and do some driving to see if it could replicate the rev/surg or inability to shut down.
     
  4. LezlieS21

    LezlieS21 New Member

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    Oh btw, 70K miles on it
     
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  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    The CM monitor display is starting to fail You may have a soft code stored maybe not You need to buy it from Texas hybrids and have whoever put it on not the dealership there's instructions here on how to get that done and ordered so it comes with your mileage and all programmed in It's a pretty easy job actually screwdriver and some plastic spluges and that's about it but people will try to charge you four to $600 to replace it I do believe.
     
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  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    they need to read the trouble codes to determine what problems there may be, but i'm not sure if it can be done with a bad cluster.
    70k is really low for the age. if the hybrid battery is original, that may be a problem.
     
  7. LezlieS21

    LezlieS21 New Member

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    Yes, this was a Govt owned car not used at all during pandemic and so it sat in a city garage used about 3k miles a year with about 10 other priuses. I bought it with just 49k. Its a replaced refub battery that was done about 1.5 years ago.

    Supposedly Toyota hooked it up, so they should be able to see soft codes if there were any. Also, I know auxillary shouldn't show because only the hybrid is connected to the computer itself.
     
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  8. LezlieS21

    LezlieS21 New Member

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    WEll they hooked it up and didnt mention any soft codes, not that there isnt any. Is the instrument cluster attached to the CM monitor?
     
  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you can get a free 12v load test at auto zone
     
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  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    The CM monitor is the gas gauge the speedometer the transmission selector all of that stuff when that starts to act up these displays will turn on and off you'll have to hold the button in to turn the car off all that kind of nonsense when your stuff goes off and it comes back on the gas gauge can be wrong and everything can reset your mileage and all it's just well can be a general pain in the rear You generally want to get that straightened out so that everything else gets back to working normal this can make a lot of things act funky air conditioner turning off and so forth generally your air conditioner turning off and all of a sudden not working is usually your inverter coolant pump not functioning properly and that coolant getting too warm and it starts backing off high road items like the air conditioner
     
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  11. LezlieS21

    LezlieS21 New Member

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    Thanks! I also saw online that you can see how its functioning in the display and it should be at least I believe 12.4 volts. When I get my car tomorrow I will check that myself.
     
  12. LezlieS21

    LezlieS21 New Member

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    Got it! I did read about it and watched a video of how to replace it. I won't be able to do that for sure! lol I cannot do any kind of saudering and the dismanteling, not for me. haha. So, I do have a local guy who used to work for Toyota (shows me his paperwork) that may be able to do it for half the cost as others. We'll see. That would be tentative plan is buying a refurbished from Texas Hybrid or somewhere else (I'm in Colorado). I will also call around to a shop I've used for my previous car (they only work on foreign, Toyota Hyundai, and Honda are the top makes they work with) and see their cost.
     
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  13. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    Had this with my ex taxi Prius, it turned out to be the wiring harness between the modules and the computer they plug into. Cleaned all the terminals, checked the continuity of each wire, checked the plug ... and there was the problem, one of the terminals was not seated properly and the matching pin in the computer was burn on the end. Carefully removing the computer cover, I pushed the burnt pin further through the plug housing until it stuck out further than the other. Cleaned the burnt bit off with a bit or fine sandpaper, plugged the thing back together and used a pin punch to push the offending pin further into the socket.
    I used a smear of electrical grease (Alminox) on each side of the ring terminals, cleaned up all the cell links and gave them a good covering of the paste as well, bolted it back together .... the strange no power and revving out was gone .... only replacing that capacitor in the instrument cluster is the only fix for that annoying problem. If you can get it out, you could take it to an electronic repairer with the required capacity and they can solder it in for you, then it just needs reinstalling, far cheaper than an exchange unit.

    T1 Terry
     
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  14. LezlieS21

    LezlieS21 New Member

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    AH wow, thank you for this Terry! I'm making calls today about the IC/CM and requesting estimates. I will look around for someone who could take a look at that first though.
     
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