ABS, VSC (!) light on but brakes work fine, except for the anti lock

This is a screw up on my end as I was changing the Aux 12V battery, was frustrated working though the passenger door because I could not get the back hatch opened and reversed the polarity. I own that, anyway I fixed 100A fuse link and a couple of smaller ones with this wonderfully helpful thread. The dome and one of the 10am abs ones. That was all I found as bad and I tested all of them under the dash and under the hood. With a meter I was getting 6VDC something volts on the aux batt input that did not look right to me but how is the car running ok if that is true. I will check that again today to see if that is still there.

100Amp DC/DC Fuse Fusible Link Replacement - 15 Minute Job | PriusChat

However I cannot clear or fix the ABS, VSC (!) lights and am still working on that. I tried the paperclip reset and the lights did clear once and came back and other time as I was normally driving it, during one start on their own they did not come on, the rest of the times they are on and stay on.

The rest of the car drives and acts just fine. Just like before I screwed it up. I did verify the anti lock is not working as it was raining pretty good yesterday and I tested the breaks by slamming them on at slow speed, it skidded each of the three times. The anti lock is not working, confirmed.

I need some help and advice please, the issue looks real

 

I came to the same conclusion over the weekend from doing more research. As such I have one on order and it should arrive this week. I will keep this thread posted to what I find once I get some data. Thanks for the good help for now

 

I found something, the ABS-2 30A fuse in the fusible link assembly block (82620-47050) was blown. I will need to get a new one.

I did as recommended and rounded up a TechStream set up, cheap Ebay knock-off and a few more hours than I would have liked and it is up an running. Get what you pay for right?

The error I have is: C1253 Hydro-Booster Pump Motor Relay. After some Google and YouTube I found the ABS-2 fuse link blown as noted, I picked that one up at a salvage yard and I am pretty sure I looked at all of them to verify they are good but, they are a bit hidden and I may have missed one, that and I did manage to clear the dashboard lights with the paper-clip reset once and during one drive the lights cleared themselves, but never again.

So what I am faced with is the obvious of replacing the fuse link block but what I do not want it to blow this 30A fuse again. I would like to ensure that I found the root problem, if there is one. What does this circuit feed in detail? Can I can do some tests on it and how to do those tests?

During the first troubleshooting the ABS Main2 10A micro fuse was found blown and I replaced it. It is still good.

As stated, at the moment the brakes are working perfectly fine in all aspects, except the anti-lock, I tested that when it was raining and when I slam on the breaks it will skid now.

Thanks for any help that can be suggested

 

Oh, I will add in the old main fuse fusible link assembly block (82620-47050) this 30A one is still good. I did entertain trying to remove the metal plate and between the two make a good one but getting it out bent it up a bit and I do not want to risk it not working correclty.

 

Very helpful, I will round up the parts and give it a go next weekend. Once I have some results to share, I will do that for others to benefit from as well.

 

FIXED IT

All with the help of mr guy mann

Rounded up the parts today, inline fuse holder from AutoZone, visit to a junkyard and grabbed all the relays from the under hood box, would have grabbed the fusible link assembly but the place was closing and would not wait on me.

Followed your advice with the supplemental inline 30A fuse holder, it worked out so well this may be the final fix unless I find a new fusible link assembly someday and feel motivated to change it out. The burned off tab slipped right out from the top once I took a small screwdriver and pressed the locking tab a bit. With it removed it was easy to solder one end of the fuse holder wires to it and then reinstall it. The other end went straight to the battery terminal input.

After I got that installed I started following your directions but before I got too deep into that I zeroed in on the relay you identified, decided to meter it. I noticed a difference on the control side terminals, two of the ones from the junkyard were indicating 77.6 and 77.3 ohms while the one from the car was at 80.3 ohms not much difference, but, I installed one of the junkyard relays as a quick lazy test and started the car.

All the lights cleared and I was happy

What I think happened is originally I found the 10A ABS 2 fuse blown and it looks like it damaged that relay it is linked to enough so that it would not actuate and provide the redundant power to the brake actuator pump, triggering all the faults.

Anyone with the same problem that wants to take the read on the internet, parts swap and hope approach now you know

 

P.S. You notice that little black wire running from the top connector above the battery input down to the 7.5A first fuse.... That was a fix I found googling around shortly after I bought the car to clear an intermittent P code that would light up the check engine light. I forgot what the code number was, but it would only come on when it rained for some reason. Anyway the jumper wire worked worked, I got it to pass state inspection that was coming due and I never gave it another thought. If anyone knows the problem it is solving for and the real fix in detail let me know. That may be my next project

 

So the fix would be to pull that individual wire connector out of the overall bundle connector, clean it up and solder it? Corrosion sound right for the intermittent behavior I was seeing especially for when it was raining. Is there a good write up where someone did this as getting that bundle connector out of the bottom of the underhood fuse box and then removing that one blue wire for repairs looks to be a job.