Diagnostic/Load test results

I agree , it was really humid and rainy for a while and being by the ocean did some damage . I found some corrosion since I just be going through everything in different connectors. I repinned and used CRC electronic cleaner on what I noticed so far . And the most or all the old codes from the early post have gone away and after finally getting it back powering on the
10a ecu-ig no.2 fuse was popping when it was in accessory mode or maybe it was happening but just hadn’t checked or noticed but if the driver assist control module was disconnected it wouldn’t pop. So after tracing a entanglement of wires from the fuse box which leads to the passenger door I left the connector with the corrosion I saw at the passenger door unconnected which I guess is why it stopped

 

Ok
5. I’m checking and rechecking all the connections.
6. Voltage Sensor when checked with the circuit probe with the dc connections into it gives a reading /I’ll have to make note of the results
7. Checking with a multimeter, circuit probe or ? Would confirm or dis?
8.possible
9.refer to 7 response

 

I found this on another thread called “ Immobilized by `BatScrazy” what sounds similar but like you said multiple factors.”
The computer will recognize the code transmitted by the key fob and allow the door to open, dash information to come on, and engine to start when brake is applied. My problem is the car recognizes the fob for the first two functions, but will not engage the starter. A red icon of a padlock will flash on the display signaling it is in immobilizer mode. I only have the one fob so I’m not sure if the problem is the fob or receiver

what is a safer way recommended? And after reading the link you shared I do have some airbags disconnected